1937 Buick 66C

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About 1937 Buick 66C

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    http://www.2experts.org/

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    Male
  • Location:
    Colorado
  • Interests:
    Old cars (Airflow, Amphicar, Buick, Ford Model A, Packard, Pierce-Arrow, Stanley Steamer)
    Old houses

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  1. In my 1937 66C I discovered an extra key hidden under the trunk lid weatherstripping and a box / open wrench securely attached to a bolt on the frame after we separated the body and chassis.
  2. I now have the my 1932 900 Coupe Roadster running! The title is still in progress, and I ran it out of gas while tuning so now it's going to be in "dry storage" until spring. While I was exploring under the Packard, I've discovered that the grease fittings on it are not conventional zerks as I know them, but appear to be a larger, bayonet style fitting that enables the grease gun to be locked onto the fitting by a slight twist (think pins on a twist-to-lock automotive light bulb). I would like to know what these are called, and where I might obtain the complimentary fitting for my grease gun to shoot some grease into these.
  3. Good Morning Tim, Greetings from another 900 enthusiast, also a bit of a newbie to Packards. I don't (think) I have any of the parts you are looking for, but good to meet you anyway. I don't get on the Packard forum all that much, so the best way to reach me is direct email (kanas@qadas.com). I have a 900 Convertible Roadster and a 900 Sedan. These cars were in a the estate of my late father-in-law. The Roadster is an older, award winning, restoration. I've just gotten it running after lots of adventures with the Detroit Lubricator carburetor. The sedan was under restoration at the time of my father-in-law's passing, and is mostly complete. I need to finish repairs to the radiator shell, paint the hood and front fenders, and do some final assembly. I'm hoping that all the parts are present or I will be on a parts hunt, also.
  4. Good Morning all, These engines do not cool properly without the thermostat, therefore you should put it back in at your earliest convenience. As Matt Harwood indicates, having the temperature climb after shutdown is a result of "heat soak", meaning the residual heat in the engine is not being removed by circulating coolant after shutdown. I've found it very effective (and less mess on the garage floor) if I restart the Buick about 5 min after hot shutdown to allow the coolant circulate for a minute or so which will bring the temperature down very quickly.
  5. Glen, You might put in a call to Scott Morton (he was parked next to your 1913 at last weekend's show). He mentioned to me that he had problem with the loss of the latent magnetism of the generator. He found a guy who "remagnetized" the offending unit (I think armature). You can reach Scott at samorton@wyo.edu. PS: I found the phenolic I need for the Pierce Arrow through McMaster-Carr. Regards; Jon Kanas
  6. Greetings all, First and reverse are "straight-cut" gears and will not engage silently unless they are fully stopped. I suggest always shifting into second immediately before attempting either first or reverse. This can be done in a single fluid motion (depress clutch, shift into second, then shift into first / reverse). The second gear syncro will stop the mainshaft enabling a smooth, silent shift into either first or reverse. If this technique does not work, something is dragging (usually clutch not fully disengaging) and causing the mainshaft to receive power from the engine, causing it to begin turning when it should be fully disengaged. Best Regards, Jon Kanas
  7. Hello Keith, I am a newbie to the Airflow community (1yr), although I've been involved in the automobile restoration hobby for most of my adult life. I have a 1936 C9 that I believe is a "survivor" car with around 60K miles on it. My primary point of comparison is a 1937 Buick, frame-off restoration completed in 2009. My experience with my limited ownership: Mechanical parts seem to be available, through Bernbaum's and other sources. Small parts and trim can be are difficult to locate, and are frequently unique to the Airflow. For example, the light switch on my car has been replaced. The original switch is also the high beam indicator (in the middle of the knob). Although my lights work with the replacement switch, I am having no luck locating a reproduction of the original switch. I had to do a complete rebuild of the brake hydraulics. Excluding the rear wheel cylinders, all of the components were available new from various suppliers. The rear brake cylinders are unique to 1936 and have different size pistons for the leading and trailing shoes; Mine required re-sleeving. This was the most expensive part of the work. I had a local old-car specialist do the work; my total bill was $3500 for the entire job. I did not need either shoes or drums, although both appear to be available should I have needed them. I presume that I could have saved several hundred $$$ by doing the brake work myself; I chose not to do so because I was concerned that my expertise would not transfer easily from a GM restoration to a Chrysler. The Airflow club is very helpful. I have been able to obtain necessary manuals etc through the club, and have received excellent technical advice when I have asked for it. I believe that my Airflow was used by a prior owner in a number of the Airflow Club tours in decades past. I would not hesitate to drive mine on a tour, however I a not certain I would drive from Colorado halfway across the continent to get to a tour. That may change once I am more familiar with it. In summary, if you are looking at a C10 Imperial, that is a top-of-the line Airflow and should retain its desirability. Mechanically, these cars are well engineered and are solidly built. I would be attentive to purchase a car that is as complete as possible, as it's the small, unique stuff that can be very difficult to obtain.
  8. Good Afternoon Jack et al, We need to keep in mind that the use of AM radios in automobiles and associated interference was still in it's infancy in 1937. There was not a comprehensive understanding of what aspects of the automobile would cause radio interference, therefore they approached it with an abundance of caution and seemed to install capacitors all over. I suggest putting the radio in the car, get it working, and see if you can hear any interference from the systems in your car (pops from the ignition, or a whine from your alternator). I had my radio rebuilt, put it in, and do not have any interference from anything so no capacitors at all. My brother-in-law has a very original 1937 Century sedan, and there are capacitors everywhere. They're on the ignition (coil), light switch, generator and one on each running board between the running board and the chassis. His radio does not operate, so we've never investigated whether or not there's any difference in the way the radio behaves. A good car audio store will have several types of noise suppression capacitors available; They're probably your best bet for obtaining one.
  9. Hello Dave, Glad to see others on the list could provide you with the images you need.
  10. Good Evening Dave, I have detailed images of the vacuum start configuration, with Stromberg carburetor for the large series engine (320cu in). The installation and configuration differ from the small series engine. Please advise by direct email which configuration you are looking for.
  11. Good Morning, Convertibles had leather, enclosed cars had mohair. This was true of most of GM cars of the time. Packards of the same era had leather for the chauffeur compartments were leather, passenger compartments were mohair or other fine fabric. It appears that leather was not the luxury upholstery material that it is considered to be today. When I did the interior of my 66C, the old original leather was present. It was very dark brown and extremely dirty; It was too brittle to attempt to clean it and determine the actual color. When I did my interior, I did a tan leather (similar to the top color) that compliments the Bengal Brown exterior very well. Images attached...
  12. Hello Pete et al, This lens appears to be correct for 1937 / 1938 Buicks. The size of the lens, cork gasket and bayonet slots for mounting the lens are appropriate for these years. There are a few articles about these in the various old Torque Tube magazines (available at http://1937and1938buicks.com/) ; The consensus of these articles is that there are two shape variations, one more pointed than the other. The lens with the more prominent point may be later production units, or from a different supplier. The lens from your images show the "more round" version of the lens.
  13. Hello Thad, Welcome to our forum. Below is an inventory of items that I do when I store automobiles. I store several of my own, as well as have a warehouse where I provide long-term storage for others. This really does not take as long and is not difficult once you've done it once or twice. I have good weather here in Colorado during the winter and take one or more of the cars out for a drive, then re-prep them before putting them away. The entire process shouldn't take more than a half hour to complete. Fuel Stabilizer: Purchase a container of Stabil or similar fuel stabilizer. Fuel: Immediately prior to storage, drive your Buick and get it up to full operating temperature. During this trip, stop at a local fuel station close to where you will be storing the Buick. Put the appropriate amount of Stabil in the gas tank (assume the fuel capacity is 16 gallons unless you know otherwise) then completely fill the tank. A full tank reduces the likelihood that the fuel will go through cycles of evaporation / condensation inside the fuel tank, resulting in water in the bottom of the tank. The stabilizer prevents the fuel from turning into varnish, and the fuel should keep for for well over a year. Tires: Add about 10lbs pressure to each tire so that they are slightly overinflated. This reduces "flat-spotting" that makes the car drive strangely when you resume use. Vacuum: Vacuum the interior to make sure there isn't anything hiding in there that will get moldy and nasty while its not being driven. Put it away: Park the warm car in your storage location. Interior Preservation: If you live in a humid area, or an area prone to moth damage, use a product like Damprid in the interior, and put a few mothballs in a dish on the front floor where you'll be sure to see them when you get back in the car in the spring. Battery: If you have electricity where you store the Buick, connect a battery tender (low amperage charger intended to maintain battery charge.). Tenders are inexpensive and readily available at most auto parts stores. Make sure the tender is appropriate for 6V batteries; some are 12V only. If you have no electricity at your storage location, remove the battery and keep in a heated area for the duration of your storage. As some others have noted in response, do NOT start the car and let it idle while in not in use. This is a bad practice that will ultimately cause you a number of problems. The most severe of these is water contamination in the oil. At idle you will never get the engine hot enough to evaporate the water (combustion byproduct) out of the oil. You will also cause the exhaust system to rust from the inside out, again due to accumulated moisture. It is a much better practice to leave it alone during storage than to occasionally start it. As a matter of good practice, you should always plan on taking your car out for a drive, getting it to full temperature, every time you start it. If you keep the battery on a tender while in storage, returning it to service means you will simply get in, start the Buick, and drive it away. For storage longer than one year, I drain the fuel tank, carburetor and fuel pump and removing the battery from the car. Do not store the car outdoors if at all possible. Even if covered, you run the risk of damage and moisture entrapment that becomes very expensive, very quickly. Covering the car in an unheated building is ideal to minimize temperature cycles and minimize dust accumulation. I use simple, loose fitting cheap plastic covers to keep dust off of the cars and prevent roof leaks from causing issues. Feel free to contact me by email (kanas@qadas.com) should you have any questions or concerns and I will be glad to discuss them with you.
  14. Very nice improvement. I hope that I will be able to facilitate similar improvements to my 1932 900!
  15. Greetings 34studepres, I have generated a scanned extract from the owners' manual for my 1936 C-9 Airflow Airflow Chrysler Eight Instruction Book; December 1935 entitled Transmission with Overdrive. This contains a diagram of the internals of the transmission, a description of the components and complete guide to operation explaining both the Overdrive and freewheeling functions. Unfortunately, the file is too large to attach to this thread. Please send me an email (kanas@qadas.com) with your email address and I will send you the extract.