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1937 Buick 66C

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About 1937 Buick 66C

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    http://www.2experts.org/

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Colorado
  • Interests:
    Old cars (Airflow, Amphicar, Buick, Ford Model A, Packard, Pierce-Arrow, Stanley Steamer)
    Old houses

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  1. Greetings Edinmass et al, Thank you for your prompt and thorough response. Clearly, you have far more experience with these automobiles than I. I am confident that I can deal with removal / replacement of the thermostat. I have several antique cars, but none with thermostatically triggered radiator shutters, so this qualifies as a "new" project for me. I will assume replacement is straightforward, requiring some care with the small fasteners that secure the assembly. Fortunately, this car is in excellent condition, so I'm hoping to avoid any surprises. A couple of
  2. Good Evening All, I have recently gotten my 1936 1602 V-12 running. Overall, it appears to be behaving as it is supposed to. I brought the engine up to 180 degrees, and observed that the radiator shutters did not open. I took the pin out of the linkage between the shutters and the thermostat lever, and manually opened the shutters (they move easily, with gentle spring return action). I then ran the engine again to nearly 200F temperature and observed that the thermostat position had not changed; It was not aligned such that the shutters would be in their open position. My exp
  3. Good Evening Dave, Bob et al, Bob / Dave, Thank you for your quick responses. When my father-in-law acquired this car, it had a weird arrangement of cables, solenoids and relays to allow two 6V batteries to work in series to feed the starter 12V, and parallel for charging and chassis electrical. I am trying to get it back to what Pierce-Arrow intended. Now that I've been running the engine almost daily, I'm not certain that I have a real problem with the starter, although numerous other issues are making themselves known, as one would expect after a long period of disuse.
  4. Good Evening Dave et al, I will take your advice and carry my question forward to the technical area of the PAS site. Per your diagnostic suggestion(s) The battery cables on this car are huge, and in excellent condition. The printing on the insulation reads "Direct Wire and Cable 600V Welding 1/0. Measuring the diameter of the cable, over the insulation, is .550". I don't have a good way to get to a bare conductor to measure it's diameter. I note that the heating of the cables is uniform, and is not noticeable until I've been cranking the starter for 1
  5. Greetings to all, I have recently gotten my 1936 1603 v12 running. I note that is cranks very, very slowly and heats up the cables between the battery and starter after 10-15 seconds of operation. All cables connections are in excellent condition, and clean. I am seeking ny suggestions for next steps to address this issue, including vendors where the starter could be assessed / rebuilt. I am in Colorado, therefore any potential sources of technical expertise nearby would be very welcome!! Jon B Kanas kanas@qadas.com
  6. Hello Brian et al, I would suggest a couple of things, based on what you've done to this point: You don't ever mention the battery or it's condition. In order for the voltage regulator and ammeter to work properly the battery must be fully charged and in otherwise good condition. Keep in mind that the voltage regulator points open and close based on the voltage from the generator exceeding the battery voltage. If the battery has a problem with sulfation of the plates, it's possible that the battery voltage is inconsistent, which will cause all kinds of strange problems. G
  7. In my 1937 66C I discovered an extra key hidden under the trunk lid weatherstripping and a box / open wrench securely attached to a bolt on the frame after we separated the body and chassis.
  8. I now have the my 1932 900 Coupe Roadster running! The title is still in progress, and I ran it out of gas while tuning so now it's going to be in "dry storage" until spring. While I was exploring under the Packard, I've discovered that the grease fittings on it are not conventional zerks as I know them, but appear to be a larger, bayonet style fitting that enables the grease gun to be locked onto the fitting by a slight twist (think pins on a twist-to-lock automotive light bulb). I would like to know what these are called, and where I might obtain the complimentary fitting for my grease
  9. Good Morning Tim, Greetings from another 900 enthusiast, also a bit of a newbie to Packards. I don't (think) I have any of the parts you are looking for, but good to meet you anyway. I don't get on the Packard forum all that much, so the best way to reach me is direct email (kanas@qadas.com). I have a 900 Convertible Roadster and a 900 Sedan. These cars were in a the estate of my late father-in-law. The Roadster is an older, award winning, restoration. I've just gotten it running after lots of adventures with the Detroit Lubricator carburetor. The sedan was under
  10. Good Morning all, These engines do not cool properly without the thermostat, therefore you should put it back in at your earliest convenience. As Matt Harwood indicates, having the temperature climb after shutdown is a result of "heat soak", meaning the residual heat in the engine is not being removed by circulating coolant after shutdown. I've found it very effective (and less mess on the garage floor) if I restart the Buick about 5 min after hot shutdown to allow the coolant circulate for a minute or so which will bring the temperature down very quickly.
  11. Glen, You might put in a call to Scott Morton (he was parked next to your 1913 at last weekend's show). He mentioned to me that he had problem with the loss of the latent magnetism of the generator. He found a guy who "remagnetized" the offending unit (I think armature). You can reach Scott at samorton@wyo.edu. PS: I found the phenolic I need for the Pierce Arrow through McMaster-Carr. Regards; Jon Kanas
  12. Greetings all, First and reverse are "straight-cut" gears and will not engage silently unless they are fully stopped. I suggest always shifting into second immediately before attempting either first or reverse. This can be done in a single fluid motion (depress clutch, shift into second, then shift into first / reverse). The second gear syncro will stop the mainshaft enabling a smooth, silent shift into either first or reverse. If this technique does not work, something is dragging (usually clutch not fully disengaging) and causing the mainshaft to receive power from the engine, causi
  13. Hello Keith, I am a newbie to the Airflow community (1yr), although I've been involved in the automobile restoration hobby for most of my adult life. I have a 1936 C9 that I believe is a "survivor" car with around 60K miles on it. My primary point of comparison is a 1937 Buick, frame-off restoration completed in 2009. My experience with my limited ownership: Mechanical parts seem to be available, through Bernbaum's and other sources. Small parts and trim can be are difficult to locate, and are frequently unique to the Airflow. For example, the light switch on my car
  14. Good Afternoon Jack et al, We need to keep in mind that the use of AM radios in automobiles and associated interference was still in it's infancy in 1937. There was not a comprehensive understanding of what aspects of the automobile would cause radio interference, therefore they approached it with an abundance of caution and seemed to install capacitors all over. I suggest putting the radio in the car, get it working, and see if you can hear any interference from the systems in your car (pops from the ignition, or a whine from your alternator). I had my radio rebuilt, put it in,
  15. Hello Dave, Glad to see others on the list could provide you with the images you need.
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