1937 Buick 66C

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About 1937 Buick 66C

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    http://www.2experts.org/

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Colorado
  • Interests:
    Old cars (Airflow, Amphicar, Buick, Ford Model A, Packard, Pierce-Arrow, Stanley Steamer)
    Old houses

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  1. Good Morning all, These engines do not cool properly without the thermostat, therefore you should put it back in at your earliest convenience. As Matt Harwood indicates, having the temperature climb after shutdown is a result of "heat soak", meaning the residual heat in the engine is not being removed by circulating coolant after shutdown. I've found it very effective (and less mess on the garage floor) if I restart the Buick about 5 min after hot shutdown to allow the coolant circulate for a minute or so which will bring the temperature down very quickly.
  2. Glen, You might put in a call to Scott Morton (he was parked next to your 1913 at last weekend's show). He mentioned to me that he had problem with the loss of the latent magnetism of the generator. He found a guy who "remagnetized" the offending unit (I think armature). You can reach Scott at samorton@wyo.edu. PS: I found the phenolic I need for the Pierce Arrow through McMaster-Carr. Regards; Jon Kanas
  3. Greetings all, First and reverse are "straight-cut" gears and will not engage silently unless they are fully stopped. I suggest always shifting into second immediately before attempting either first or reverse. This can be done in a single fluid motion (depress clutch, shift into second, then shift into first / reverse). The second gear syncro will stop the mainshaft enabling a smooth, silent shift into either first or reverse. If this technique does not work, something is dragging (usually clutch not fully disengaging) and causing the mainshaft to receive power from the engine, causing it to begin turning when it should be fully disengaged. Best Regards, Jon Kanas
  4. Hello Keith, I am a newbie to the Airflow community (1yr), although I've been involved in the automobile restoration hobby for most of my adult life. I have a 1936 C9 that I believe is a "survivor" car with around 60K miles on it. My primary point of comparison is a 1937 Buick, frame-off restoration completed in 2009. My experience with my limited ownership: Mechanical parts seem to be available, through Bernbaum's and other sources. Small parts and trim can be are difficult to locate, and are frequently unique to the Airflow. For example, the light switch on my car has been replaced. The original switch is also the high beam indicator (in the middle of the knob). Although my lights work with the replacement switch, I am having no luck locating a reproduction of the original switch. I had to do a complete rebuild of the brake hydraulics. Excluding the rear wheel cylinders, all of the components were available new from various suppliers. The rear brake cylinders are unique to 1936 and have different size pistons for the leading and trailing shoes; Mine required re-sleeving. This was the most expensive part of the work. I had a local old-car specialist do the work; my total bill was $3500 for the entire job. I did not need either shoes or drums, although both appear to be available should I have needed them. I presume that I could have saved several hundred $$$ by doing the brake work myself; I chose not to do so because I was concerned that my expertise would not transfer easily from a GM restoration to a Chrysler. The Airflow club is very helpful. I have been able to obtain necessary manuals etc through the club, and have received excellent technical advice when I have asked for it. I believe that my Airflow was used by a prior owner in a number of the Airflow Club tours in decades past. I would not hesitate to drive mine on a tour, however I a not certain I would drive from Colorado halfway across the continent to get to a tour. That may change once I am more familiar with it. In summary, if you are looking at a C10 Imperial, that is a top-of-the line Airflow and should retain its desirability. Mechanically, these cars are well engineered and are solidly built. I would be attentive to purchase a car that is as complete as possible, as it's the small, unique stuff that can be very difficult to obtain.
  5. Good Afternoon Jack et al, We need to keep in mind that the use of AM radios in automobiles and associated interference was still in it's infancy in 1937. There was not a comprehensive understanding of what aspects of the automobile would cause radio interference, therefore they approached it with an abundance of caution and seemed to install capacitors all over. I suggest putting the radio in the car, get it working, and see if you can hear any interference from the systems in your car (pops from the ignition, or a whine from your alternator). I had my radio rebuilt, put it in, and do not have any interference from anything so no capacitors at all. My brother-in-law has a very original 1937 Century sedan, and there are capacitors everywhere. They're on the ignition (coil), light switch, generator and one on each running board between the running board and the chassis. His radio does not operate, so we've never investigated whether or not there's any difference in the way the radio behaves. A good car audio store will have several types of noise suppression capacitors available; They're probably your best bet for obtaining one.
  6. Hello Dave, Glad to see others on the list could provide you with the images you need.
  7. Good Evening Dave, I have detailed images of the vacuum start configuration, with Stromberg carburetor for the large series engine (320cu in). The installation and configuration differ from the small series engine. Please advise by direct email which configuration you are looking for.
  8. Good Morning, Convertibles had leather, enclosed cars had mohair. This was true of most of GM cars of the time. Packards of the same era had leather for the chauffeur compartments were leather, passenger compartments were mohair or other fine fabric. It appears that leather was not the luxury upholstery material that it is considered to be today. When I did the interior of my 66C, the old original leather was present. It was very dark brown and extremely dirty; It was too brittle to attempt to clean it and determine the actual color. When I did my interior, I did a tan leather (similar to the top color) that compliments the Bengal Brown exterior very well. Images attached...
  9. Hello Pete et al, This lens appears to be correct for 1937 / 1938 Buicks. The size of the lens, cork gasket and bayonet slots for mounting the lens are appropriate for these years. There are a few articles about these in the various old Torque Tube magazines (available at http://1937and1938buicks.com/) ; The consensus of these articles is that there are two shape variations, one more pointed than the other. The lens with the more prominent point may be later production units, or from a different supplier. The lens from your images show the "more round" version of the lens.
  10. Hello Thad, Welcome to our forum. Below is an inventory of items that I do when I store automobiles. I store several of my own, as well as have a warehouse where I provide long-term storage for others. This really does not take as long and is not difficult once you've done it once or twice. I have good weather here in Colorado during the winter and take one or more of the cars out for a drive, then re-prep them before putting them away. The entire process shouldn't take more than a half hour to complete. Fuel Stabilizer: Purchase a container of Stabil or similar fuel stabilizer. Fuel: Immediately prior to storage, drive your Buick and get it up to full operating temperature. During this trip, stop at a local fuel station close to where you will be storing the Buick. Put the appropriate amount of Stabil in the gas tank (assume the fuel capacity is 16 gallons unless you know otherwise) then completely fill the tank. A full tank reduces the likelihood that the fuel will go through cycles of evaporation / condensation inside the fuel tank, resulting in water in the bottom of the tank. The stabilizer prevents the fuel from turning into varnish, and the fuel should keep for for well over a year. Tires: Add about 10lbs pressure to each tire so that they are slightly overinflated. This reduces "flat-spotting" that makes the car drive strangely when you resume use. Vacuum: Vacuum the interior to make sure there isn't anything hiding in there that will get moldy and nasty while its not being driven. Put it away: Park the warm car in your storage location. Interior Preservation: If you live in a humid area, or an area prone to moth damage, use a product like Damprid in the interior, and put a few mothballs in a dish on the front floor where you'll be sure to see them when you get back in the car in the spring. Battery: If you have electricity where you store the Buick, connect a battery tender (low amperage charger intended to maintain battery charge.). Tenders are inexpensive and readily available at most auto parts stores. Make sure the tender is appropriate for 6V batteries; some are 12V only. If you have no electricity at your storage location, remove the battery and keep in a heated area for the duration of your storage. As some others have noted in response, do NOT start the car and let it idle while in not in use. This is a bad practice that will ultimately cause you a number of problems. The most severe of these is water contamination in the oil. At idle you will never get the engine hot enough to evaporate the water (combustion byproduct) out of the oil. You will also cause the exhaust system to rust from the inside out, again due to accumulated moisture. It is a much better practice to leave it alone during storage than to occasionally start it. As a matter of good practice, you should always plan on taking your car out for a drive, getting it to full temperature, every time you start it. If you keep the battery on a tender while in storage, returning it to service means you will simply get in, start the Buick, and drive it away. For storage longer than one year, I drain the fuel tank, carburetor and fuel pump and removing the battery from the car. Do not store the car outdoors if at all possible. Even if covered, you run the risk of damage and moisture entrapment that becomes very expensive, very quickly. Covering the car in an unheated building is ideal to minimize temperature cycles and minimize dust accumulation. I use simple, loose fitting cheap plastic covers to keep dust off of the cars and prevent roof leaks from causing issues. Feel free to contact me by email (kanas@qadas.com) should you have any questions or concerns and I will be glad to discuss them with you.
  11. Very nice improvement. I hope that I will be able to facilitate similar improvements to my 1932 900!
  12. Greetings 34studepres, I have generated a scanned extract from the owners' manual for my 1936 C-9 Airflow Airflow Chrysler Eight Instruction Book; December 1935 entitled Transmission with Overdrive. This contains a diagram of the internals of the transmission, a description of the components and complete guide to operation explaining both the Overdrive and freewheeling functions. Unfortunately, the file is too large to attach to this thread. Please send me an email (kanas@qadas.com) with your email address and I will send you the extract.
  13. Greetings all, It’s alive!!! After a month at a local specialist shop, the entire brake system of my 1936 C9 airflow has been completely overhauled (new master cylinder, front wheel cylinders, new hoses, sleeved rear cylinders etc). I picked it up from the shop on Tuesday morning. I put a can of BG fuel additive and 5 gallons fuel in the tank, added a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to the engine then drove it about 20 miles around town over the succeeding three days. On Wednesday morning, I had the stuck valve issue on cold start that I mentioned before. The issue has not resurfaced since, so the combination of BG and Marvel Mystery Oil appear to be having a beneficial effect. I cleaned it up a bit more on Friday then took it to a local Coffee and Cars event. Later on Saturday I added another 5 gallons of fuel and drove it out to my warehouse (25 miles, highway driving). The Airflow ran well: no noises, no overheating, good oil pressure etc. In fact, it performed remarkably well. This maiden voyage has brought forth several follow-up technical questions: What kind of gas mileage might I expect? The fuel gauge does not register, and I really don’t want to be stranded on the side of the road until such time as I get the gauge working properly. Is the fuel gauge sending unit accessible without removing the tank? Using Overdrive. I figured out the the “Overdrive” knob on the dashboard locks out both the overdrive and freewheeling. When does one move this knob? There are occasions that I cannot pull or push this control. When can / should this control be manipulated? I live in the mountains, and will need to lock out the freewheeling on occasion to facilitate engine braking on downgrades. Do I need to stop before pulling the knob? I don’t want to damage or break anything. One of the bottom bolts securing the differential to the rear axle housing has been stripped and was glued into place with silicone gasket goo (this is one of the bolts that is removed to drain the differential). No wonder the the differential was leaking. This bolt is 7/16 head, with 1" thread depth below the head. In order to insert the hole, the driveline would require disassembly and remove the differential. There are 9 other bolts securing the differential to the housing, so I'm less concerned about having an strong fastening at this point, but getting something in place that will not leak. Are there self-tapping, oversize bolts that could be used to address issue #4? How deep are the threads in the differential housing (can I use a longer bolt?)? Any other suggestions regarding how to address this without a major disassembly effort being involved? One taillight has a knurled brass knob securing the assembly at the bottom of the taillight housing. One taillight has a “mystery” fastener. What is the correct fasterner for the taillight housings? My owners’ manual indicates that the high beam indicator is integral with the light switch. Is this true? The shaft for the light switch does not seem to be large enough to work as a light tube. If the light switch has been replaced, is the correct original switch available with high beam indicator available? The exterior door handle has pulled out of the LR door. How is this attached, and what disassembly is required to address reattaching it? My next project(s) are mostly electrical. The list includes getting the brake lights and instrument lights working, reattaching the clock to it’s cluster (it’s off-center) and working through the strangely added auxiliary headlights on the front bumper.
  14. Good day everyone, I would like to see if I can get some ownership information on my recently acquired Packard 900 Coupe Roadster. I have two pieces of information that are clues: There is a sticker on the windshield indicating that it is #126 from the Packard Centennial 1996. It has a CCCA First Prize badge on the cowl, #1229 from 1989. I inquired with CCCA, but have received no response. My late father-in-law purchased it from Mid Century Classics, taking delivery via FedEx in October, 2004. I have a telephone number for Mid Century but have been unable to reach them. Any information available from any forum member(s) will be appreciated.