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About JerryVan

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  • Birthday 02/20/1965

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  1. I have this on eBay right now. Third time relisting it. Would like it to go to someone who can use it. Send me a message if interested. https://www.ebay.com/itm/392261303999?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
  2. Terry, Thanks for your kind words. Sounds like you're going to have a fun car! Congratulations on having it in the family for so long.
  3. Also, I believe the plungers are adjustable so that you can add a bit more pressure to the back of the leather. This can possibly help to alleviate wear for a while.
  4. Terry, I assume your cone clutch has the spring loaded plungers behind the leather clutch facing? Most often, a grabby clutch is caused by worn spots in the leather where it lays over the spring loaded plungers. The plungers are supposed to push up the leather a bit, causing the cone/leather to just begin touching the flywheel in those spots. This is the initial engagement of your clutch. As you let back even more on the clutch pedal, more spring pressure is applied and more leather comes into contact with the flywheel. Therefore, you get a smooth, gradual engagement. However, when
  5. Really cool. Very much like my 1924, Model 41. Big car!
  6. Have you checked your intake manifold gaskets?? Or, the gasket between the carburetor and the intake manifold?
  7. Barry, Try here for a head gasket: http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/
  8. Great. Glad to see you're on the right track then. Best!
  9. 1923 Buicks do not have heads. OR, is that just the 6 cylinder ones??? Now I'm confused...
  10. Have you confirmed that your air valve is working freely during your hard start/trough running episodes? I know you said the carb was checked out, so was mine... The dashpot can get sticky even in the best of carburetors. It's easy to check, just push a popsicle stick in the carb intake and try to push the air flapper. If it moves you're good, if not...
  11. Here's some pics that might help my posting above;
  12. It's hard for me to imagine such a difference in valve lash going from hot to cold. Let me ask you this, what carburetor are you running? The Marvel, with the air valve & dashpot adjustment? My '24 sometimes does EXACTLY as you describe when starting cold after having run well. Inside the Marvel carburetor, there is an air valve, in other words a flapper, that opens up to allow additional air into the carburetor for higher speeds. The air valve has a dashpot attached to it, (basically a small shock absorber), that keeps it from fluttering and reacting too rapidly. That dashpot
  13. Let me add, I do not believe you have any binding anywhere! That's been proven over and over again and it's also evidenced by the very small voltage drop you noticed when trying to start. If the starter tried at all to overcome binding your voltage would have dropped big time. The small drop indicates to me a poor ground, either externally, (e.g. frame to engine), or internally, as in inside the s/g unit. It may also indicate poor commutation, (i.e. poor connection between starting brushes and commutator). When you apply the starter, is it possible to have someone reach inside the s/g unit wit
  14. Carmover, When you add your heavy ground strap, don't just bolt it to the engine block, attach it using one of the s/g mounting bolts and scuff off any paint that might interfere with a good connection. You may have poor ground between the s/g and the block just as easily as you might from the frame to the block. I'm also curious about another comment you made a couple of times and nobody questioned. You said you could see sparking between the brush/commutator connection a couple of times. What exactly did you mean by that? Did you see sparks at the point where the bru
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