critterpainter

You might try Bobs Automobilia 805-434 2963 They do have torque converter seals and front pump seals. Bill

From his description I would say 1951-52 Special and Super as those were left & right handed. The roadmaster portholes fit either side. Bill

If anyone needs some parts. Its just outside of San Luis Obispo CA http://slo.craigslist.org/pts/4152990123.html I saw the ad and decided to pass it on Bill

NEVER put bait in a car unless you want that car to be a cemetery. I once bought a late model car for cheap because the prior owner put de-con in the car to get rid of the mice. Four dead mice can really stink when locked in a hot car parked in the sun. I had to remove the complete interior to find them all. Bill

Willys Knight Registry. Sometimes you just have to drive it 5-6 miles to help stop the smoking. Does your car have a "skinner rectifier"?

If you need parts you might try Bobs Automobilia in Calif. They specialize in Buick parts for that era 805 434-2963

There is one difference that comes to mind. They changed the water pump design. In 1949 the bypass hose between the water pump and thermostat housing was 1 7/8" in Dia. 1950 and up the hose size is 5/8". Bill

Some Buicks (1925 Standard for one) can use a Ford T wheel bolt. Many suppliers have them and if you want something stronger than original then ask for the ones made by RV Anderson. Do stake the nuts on after installing.

Have you thought about having an overdrive installed. There are some specialty places that can install them in your torque tube.

NO Bob's does not have that one.

See if a Chevy 605 box will work for you, or go over to the HAMB Bill

If it has been sitting since the 70's DO NOT START IT without dropping the pan and cleaning out the crud in the bottom of the pan. Also you have some valves that are stuck open. That is why you have had the flames through the carb. Don't be such a hurry to get it started that you you more damage than you want to fix. Bill

I may be wrong but the horn relay might be a junction point for the power wire going to the switch & ign. That connection may be loose or on the wrong terminal. Bill

It looks like the "failsafe" thermostat is no better than the others. If the ENGINE overheats and the thermostat is working it will open wider than normal. Their ad does not say that the thermostat fails in the open position! Bill

I believe the 6 cl Buicks DO have a small freeze plug at the back of the head. Bill

First jump the two wires on the carburetor. Usually the problem is dirty contacts in the switch on the starter. If you hear a faint clicking when you short the two starter wires together then check the small relay under the cover of the starter relay, the contact points on the relay may be dirty. If you hear a a bit louder clicking, it may be burned or arced contacts on the main relay. Bobs Automobilia can repair these starter relays if the issue lays there. 805-343-2963 Bill

I was told it was National 99204

They should be the same as Buick. Try Bobs Automobila 805-434-2963

Don't you think that just posting this in the Model T ford section would be sufficient?

Matt: Look carefully at the steel shank of the handle on the steel part that goes into the body about 3/4" from the chrome part. There should be a pin on a tangent through the steel shank to retain the "guts" of the lock assy. Removing the pin will allow disassembly. take lots of pictures. Bill

Put the hood on and drive it again before you claim a victory Insufficient air flow is one of the reasons Buicks like to run warm.

When assembling the engine, did the piston assemblys go in with just a slight nudge from a hammer handle or did you have to force them down? Did the crankshaft rotate before the rods were installed? Are the piston rings cast iron or chrome moly? If CI did you lube them before assy? Loosening the rod bolts is NOT kosher. The rods need to be torqued to 40-45# and you should have about 1 1/2 thousands clearance on the bearings if I recall correctly. Did you use an assembly lube or assemble everything dry? Bill

quick check to isolate the problem. Put a vice grip on the flex line coming out of the master cyl and then step on the brake pedal. Now does the pedal go to the floor? If not then use the vice grip trick on the other flex lines. Bill

You say everything is torqued correctly, but were the bearing clearances checked? The rods might be an issue if they were not checked during assy. Bill

Parts car? Restore it as a pickup