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Found 16 results

  1. Hello Everyone, Wanted to let everyone know that I can restore , rebuild or repair any and all Generator, Starter or Distributor. Superior quality and attention to detail. Look for my ads in "Antique Automobile", CCCA Bulletin, Packards International Magazine. Check out my website or for a quick glimpse see my profile gallery right here. There is no item that is too odd or rare. Feel free to call with any questions or advice. Hope to hear from everyone. Thanks for looking! Jason Smith Advanced Electrical Rebuilders 1-866-228-0218
  2. Do you have a starter or generator that has been giving you problems or has given up completely? We would love to help you with those problems. United Starter & Alternator of Indiana can put your mind at ease with rebuilding your units back to new shape. We accept units sent to us via UPS, Fedex, or USPS. Normal turn around for us is only a few days and we get them right back to their owners. We accept checks and credit cards for easy payment. Feel free to contact us to help you with any of your starting and charging systems. Be sure to tell us you saw our post on the Classic Car Club Forum and get 10 % off.
  3. Hello everyone, I'm new here and am trying to locate a starter for my dad's 1927 DB Victory Six car - its one of the last parts he needs to finish this car. Any leads or information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again everyone for your time
  4. Greetings, I am involved in getting a 1925 Pierce Arrow dump truck back in service for national in July!. Especially need Pierce manufacture carburetor. We are also missing the generator. Also interested in any other parts. I have a 1917 Starter for possible trade. Thanks, Spencer 860.546.060five
  5. Hello Everyone I am in the process of restoring a 1950 buick special 2dr jetback. All of a sudden I get no action from starter and no action from the plunger. I had order a replacement starter and solenoid. Whhen I recieved the piece it was from a 51 or later because the starter relay switch is not connected to the soleniod. I am looking for a way to either 1. test original starter to find out what is wrong. 2. Just buy a relay switch and add on. 3. find another 50 starter. I dont know if its the switch, the starter, or the solenoid itself. Any ideas or input would be great.
  6. I have a 1922 Buick with a 6 cyl. The car is an older restration and the last time the engine was runing was 12 years ago. I drained and added new gas and installed a new battery. When I push the starter button on the floor it goes down only about 1/2 inch and nothing happens. At this point I am just trying to get the starter to turn the motor over. It seems like something is not engaging. I have checked the linkage and it is fine. How far should the starter botton go down?
  7. car has not been started in years. starter internals are very sloppy. major parts are there and not broken. does not engage. is apart now. any suggestions for substitute or replacement starter
  8. Hey loyal DB folks, I have an old '26 DB Business Coupe that I promised I'd drive in the 4th of July Parade for the Cub Scouts... I can't get the car started using the key. For some reason when I put in the key and turn to the Right, (with the clutch and brake pressed), I don't hear the generator motor kick on (...that wonderful little humming noise). However, when I stepping on the starter button, the motor turns over vigourosly but the engine doesn't fire... Up to this time I've driven the car freely and it starts up the first time each time...even in the winter. At first I thought the battery didn't have enough charge so I charged the battery, lights come on, the starter turns the engine but not generator noise. I think something is wrong with the ingition switch and it's not making contact... as the Ammeter doesn't move when I turn the key, nor do I hear the generator. I think that if I could somehow bypass the starter switch, I should be able to get power to the Ammeter and thus to the generator. So my question is: if I took a lead and clipped it to a solid ground, and then clipped the other end to the negative post on the Ammeter, would that effectively bypass the switch and allow power to flow to the Ammeter and eventually the Generator...and let me drive the car as long as that connection is maintained? Not good enough with electricity to understand why the starter switch (on the floor) is getting power but not the Ammeter /Generator. I've added a diagram to describe what I want to do. I want to drive the car in the 4th of July Parade for the Cub Scouts but cannot get the darn thing started. Please let me know. Shawn
  9. For over 10 years, Innovative Ideas, LLC. has been changing the scene for Model A Rebuild and Repair in Sountheastern Michigan. We specialize in Starters, Carburetors, Generators and Steering Gear Boxes. Send us yours, and we will rebuild it! Need show quality? No problem! Need local repair? We will come to you! "Engineering Solutions to Consumer Problems" Innovative Ideas, LLC. Rochester Hills, MI 48307
  10. I stopped in to get gas tonight, and when I jumped back in to leave, the car won't start!!! My car is a 1949 Roadmaster.. The battery was fine, but yet I still attempted to jump it just in case. No start. Not even a click! Just the lonesome stranded sound of me pressing on the gas pedal. I sat and waited almost two hours for a tow, and hoped that she would start after she cooled down, but no. Could this be my starter? What do you guys think? The only change I made recently was replacing the fan belt. I had put in a new voltage regulator, but ended up putting back in my old one since the new one didn't work! I have the wires correctly placed on the regulator, and I have polarized the regulator as well.. I am at a loss. Only thing I think it may be is the starter. Keep in mind the car makes NO sound when trying to start, and the battery seems to be alright. Jerry 1949 Buick Roadmaster
  11. I have a 1914 Model 32, when I bought it the guy said the starter had "S--t the bed." But the price was right and everything else looks beautiful so I took the gamble. He wasn't kidding in the least! When I pulled the starter out all the windings had been reduced to little copper shards, even the field windings had been damaged, I got on e-bay and what do you know a 1914 6 Volt starter for only $375. Being the genius that I am, I figured that was to easy, perhaps this is easier than I think, so I passed on it (worst decision ever) I have been searching antique junk yards and every online parts store I can find to no avail. Does anyone know of either someplace that sells replacement starters, or of one that I could use in place of the stock starter, I am pretty handy with a wrench and would be able to mix & match parts. The stock is a Westinghouse Frame 300 6-volt starter.
  14. Hey folks, bear with me. The Short story is the starter solenoid plunger activates, the starter does not. The long story is that "Bruce" ( what we named our Buick), finally needed a carb rebuild & its manifold straightened out. This part went well. Bruce's starter had been "dragging" for a few months even though it was rebuilt new internals & with a NOS solenoid. When we went to start Bruce, the dragging was worse and all we got was a 1/2 hearted sputter & a lot of no start. The original +cable got quite warm. We replaced it with a #2 from Autozone. Plunger worked, starter did not. (Battery is new & fully charged) So I pulled the starter & had my guy look it over. He freshened it up and bench tested it. In the mean time I obtained a NOS +battery cable. Same result. Plunger in, starter no go. Voltages seem good & steady everywhere & the two ground straps are in good shape. (1 bat to engine mount & 1 block to firewall) Questions: Did I miss something obvious? Could it be something internal to the engine? Could the ball in the Carb switch have been screwed up by the rebuild? Final thoughts: Last time Bruce ran he started then sputtered to a stop. At first we thought his ignition system went fuzzy. The coil was dead. So I replaced the coil, condenser, rotor & cap. Wires are still new & plugs were clean. He would turn over but not start, dragging of course. I noticed the carb was leaking badly again, so we decided to take care of that too. I'm afraid I might be dealing with a busted timing chain. Thoughts, I need a few. Engine is the original 248 straight 8 with the Dynaflow. Thanks guys & gals Dave
  15. Need help. I picked up a 1927 Chrysler all original down to the leather brakes and it ran perfect. I have never had a 6 volt system before let alone a positive ground system. With that said, I purchased a new battery and hooked the ground to the positive (poof smoke). Engine turns over just fine, I no longer have lights or spark. I have been unable to locate any type of fuse. I have installed a new started solenoid and a new coil, still nothing works except the starter. Has anyone done this before or do you have any suggestions.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
  16. Hello! Before I jack up my 59 Electra and drop the starter, I thought I'd better consult with the wise men (and women) in this Forum for their thoughts. I recently brought this car out of a long storage. It had been sitting in Illinois for nearly 15 years before I got her back to the West Coast. However, my first attempt starting her reminded me of a condition that took place years earlier. As you know, the famous starter switch on the carb actually activates the starter. As I primed the carb and hit the acellerator, the starter would not stop running. I had this problem years earlier and replaced the starter solenoid, as the winter weather and long storage periods would leave rust from moisture in the solenoid. I am now wondering if the starter switch on the carb might be the problem. Could there be gunk and maybe some rust buildup in there? Has anyone else had this problem before? If you have, please let me know what you did to remedy the problem. Maybe I can avoid having to drop this starter while laying on my back!!!