oldford

I came across this engine today and could not find any casting marks or stamped numbers. It has a Robert Bosch mag, but I don't know if it is original to the engine. It's in spectacular shape. Any ideas? Frank

You know, This is beginning to sound like a thread on the Model T Ford web site. Often times I read on that site that this Ford is better than that Ford because it has the correct bolt on the framus that was used in the last 3 months of 1917, or something like that. It's his car, let him do what he wants..... Frank

Looks like Model T Ford, 1916-1922, Frank

Typically, the hinge of the headlight door was away from the driver as he stood in front of the radiator to light the lamps. Therefore, the knob to secure the door was to the inside, closest to the radiator. I know some will claim that it doesn't matter, but my arrangement makes sense from a convenience stand point. the one you have in the photo, according to my theory, should be on the other side. Frank

Looks to be a Graham cap around 29-31 or so... Frank

Looks to be a Graham cap around 29-31 or so... Frank

No, sulfuric will not eat the brass. I have removed nickel from small pieces many time and then was able to polish the brass to a high luster. Frank

I have dealt with Kanter and the product is very good. I would be careful of making a headliner to match your seats. I can't remember ever seeing a headliner that matched the seat upholstery. Usually, the headliner was a much lighter cloth (in color) and a solid color to boot. Usually light gray or light brown (taupe). Frank

Just found this photo of a 1928 Senior Six. I blew it up and you can see the conduit for the headlight wires going to the center of the radiator shroud. Frank

Looks like the hood from a 1927 Dodge Senior 6. I'll keep checking on the purpose of the holes. Maybe the wires to the headlights went through some conduit fro those holes. Frank

If the nickel is not chromed, Sulfuric will remove it. Hydrocloric will remove the chrome from the nickel, but not the nickel. Frank

Essex used the horizontal louvers from 1919-1926. I think the radiator was made larger in 1924 to better cool the six cylinder, but not sure. Frank

In NY you have to show the DMV a photo or the actual plates to have the plates OK'd. Then the check to see if the number is in use or not. Pretty simple. I think the law also states that they cannot be home made or even restored or repainted. Frank

That's a 1928 Pierce, not 1912 Frank

1912 Pierce with optional headlights. Some states outlawed the headlights in the fenders. Go figure.... Frank

Dodge Bros. 1915-1916 Frank

I have used American Collectors in New Jersey for almost 40 years. Great company, great service. Now they have a feature similar to AAA for roadside service for your antique car, should it break down on the road. Couldn't have asked for better service, ever! Frank

Lang's Model T parts has them. They call them 'roll up curtain knobs' and sell them for $1.65 per pair. Their part number is RW-SK Frank

1927-1928 Frank

I think it's a 10 mm plug used in many cars of the late 30's and early 40's. I know Packard used them and I think GM. Still available.... Frank

Well, here goes. 1. early 20's Overland 4. Early 20's Dodge Bros. 6. 23-24 Ford Model T (still has clinchers) still working on the others... Frank

The REO would have had a soft top insert, since full metal roofs were not found until 10 years or so later. The top most likely would have come within 8 to 10 inches of the four sides of the roof. Hope this helps. Frank

Mark, I have a National Service Data with a 1956 wiring diagram that I can copy and send you email. Do you still need it? Frank

Curious... They spelled Dreadnaught wrong in the above add.... Frank

30 - 31 Graham Frank