oldford

I have quite a few parts that are from a single cylinder Reo Truck, if you send me a list, maybe there is a match... Frank

I have just heard from the rebuilder. These valves are that way by design and form part of the combustion chamber. The head is 2.5" in diameter (BIG valve). Luckily, they are all good and reuseable, 'cause the new replacement valve is $120 each. Frank

I tend to think the same way, the valves are too uniform in shape to be that way from damage. Below on the Reo forum, I found that the cups are by design. Frank

By the way, Mark, where on the Reo page did you post this? I've been on the Reo page and can't find any question/answer page. Frank

Thanks for the reply, the exhaust valves are standard shape, but they are badly burned and are the old two piece kind, they will have to go... I have the head at the rebuild shop, so I don't know what they look like, condition wise, but my guess is that they are just as bad. Egge has six intakes but only 5 exhaust. I'll most likely order them, once I am convinced that the tolerances are OK. Need to find one more exhaust valve. Thanks for the info.... Frank

I posted this thread below in the Reo section, but little activity down there. Maybe up here will be better... Reo T6 Valve Question I am in the middle of a valve job on this T6 engine and hope to get a question answered. The intake valves are in the head and are cupped shaped. I have never seen cupped valves like this, so I wonder if they are this shape by design or because of damage. I question damage, since they are all the same and the cupping is quite uniform, but the center of the valve is at least 1/4" below the rim. I have tried to draw a picture, but my skills are lacking. Any help from you T6 experts??? Frank

I am in the middle of a valve job on this T6 engine and hope to get a question answered. The intake valves are in the head and are cupped shaped. I have never seen cupped valves like this, so I wonder if they are this shape by design or because of damage. I question damage, since they are all the same and the cupping is quite uniform, but the center of the valve is at least 1/4" below the rim. I have tried to draw a picture, but my skills are lacking. Any help from you T6 experts??? Frank

1953 Studebaker, probably a Commander. Frank

Let me chew on it a bit. If I stub my toe on it one more time, it just might be his.... Here is the flywheel. Need two??? Frank

PM sent, I'll take a photo of the flywheel later today.

George, I still have the chain drive rear end and a couple of large flywheels from a 1 cylinder Reo. Can bring to Hershey. 518-755-0986 Frank

I can attest to oldcarfudd's proper touring methods. For instance, we were on a 1&2 cylinder tour together and he would regularly pull over in his 2 cylinder Buick to let me pass with my 1 cylinder Reo. Frank

The B terminal is the Battery connection. The voltage measured to ground at this terminal is the battery voltage. The A terminal is the Armature of the generator, or the output voltage. The F terminal is the Field winding of the generator. The regulator works by grounding the fields through a relay. If the fields are grounded with a wire, you essentially remove the regulator from the circuit. If the generator is working properly, grounding the fields should cause the voltage reading at the A terminal to go to about 7 volts. Frank

Late teens Marmon??

Since I am sitting here in the good ole USA, it would be difficult for me to name it in Switzerland.

Does Ohm's Law still apply when you change the battery?

You could start by taking ALL of the bulbs out and replacing them one at a time and testing your switches between each bulb. I've seen two filament bulbs fail in such a way that one filament breaks and touches the other and becomes part of the new circuit. This can drive you crazy. If you find the failing bulb, throw it as far away and into the woods as you can... Frank

Let me try it this way, Power = voltage * current or P=V*I. Voltage is I*R, so power can be also written as P=I**R or current squared times resistance. If the resistance can be doubled by making the wires in the starter (for instance) very small and many more turns, then the same amount of power can be accomplished with half the current. Half the current allows one to get the same amount of power if the resistance is doubled. However, you need to double the voltage to make this happen. The net gain is that you can do all this with less wire and make it cheaper to manufacture. Let's see if I can show you in the formula: Frank

V=I*R. Sorry, I did not invent the formula. Twice the voltage, twice the current, if the resistance is constant. Frank

Power is a measure of work performed. Your statement is correct if the power consumption stayed the same, but it does not... The resistance of the load did not change. The voltage increase from 6 to 12 will push twice the current through the circuit. Frank

I think you should 'rethink' you theory. If all the previous owner did was to change the battery from 6 to 12 volts, the current is doubled not halved. V=I*R. If the loads in the car's circuits all remained the same, raising the voltage will raise the current proportionally. Frank

Certainly looks like Model T. Perhaps the two ears on the rough casting were intended to be removed when the part was finished. Still think it's Model T. Frank

Chris had his Stanley parked next to my EMF and the Maxwell. When we decided to leave, I flooded the EMF and had some trouble starting it. He had his Stanley fired and started before I had mine.... Just humiliating.... Seriously, though, We had a great time and there seems to be more and more early cars there each year... Dave had his Buick parked over by the grandstands with some late model stuff, Maybe he ran out of gas.... Frank

Check with Jason Smith (jason@aerrebuild.com) Advanced Electrical Rebuilders 16574 S. Bauer Rd Grand Ledge, MI 48837 I just sold him a ton of brushes, he most likely has them. Frank

I can relate to the problems of driving an early sliding gear transmission. I owned many model t's in the last 30 years and never thought of changing to something different until one of them ran me over. That's another story, though. I went to an EMF with its cone clutch and straight cut gears. It took me two weeks of lurching forward and grinding gears just to get from first to second. I've had the car for two years now and have finally got to the point of being able to down shift from 3rd to 2nd without grinding. "It all in the training..." I can believe the stories of model t drivers never learning to drive sliding gear transmissions.... Frank