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oldford

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Everything posted by oldford

  1. If Steve and you can't get together, you can drop it off at my booth CM18-21. No need to set it up ahead of time, just stop by if you decide to use my booth as the meeting place. If you need to call ahead of time, my cell is 845-988-6076. We arrive Tuesday and leave Sunday. Frank
  2. Thomas, The lubrication is a splash system. The oil rests in the deepest part of the sump at rest. The flywheel has 16 horse shoe shaped magnets that are set around the perimeter and act as a paddlewheel to pick up the oil and throw it in all directions. As the engine gets hotter, the oil turns to a mist or fine droplets to fall on all moving parts. The oil falls against the cylinder walls and all internal parts and then falls back to the sump to be recycled. If you had your engine rebuilt recently, it may be that the rings and bearings have not fully seated. Try running at low speed for a while to see if it runs in a little. Another thing you might try is to run it a idle with the oil fill cap removed. As it is running, slowly pour some oil into the oil fill hole to see if the squeak goes away. If it does, then you know it is most likely in the front of the engine. It might be that the timing gear it not meshing properly with the crank gear. The oil hole is directly above the timing gear. You don't have to worry about over filling a Model T engine until you have more than a quart too much oil. It takes 4 quarts normally. You can even drain some out the sump and start again. As far as the outside oiler is concerned, the easiest way to tell if you have one is to look at the magneto plug on the top of the bell housing. If there is a fitting with a copper or steel tubing coming from it, then you have one. If not, then you only have the internal one. I'll try to take a photo of mine and post it. Frank
  3. If you have a definite 'scratch' sound you should drop the pan and have someone turn the crank while you inspect the moving parts. There should be interference some place to make the sound. If the oil added to number one eases the interference, then I would look for a broken ring or something similar. Before you go and start tearing things down, though, carefully inspect for signs of wear. If it is a broken ring, you should see a wear line on the cylinder wall. The added oil may just be masking the problem, not fixing it. It's hard to diagnose a problem from a computer screen, good luck.
  4. Thomas, I probably will start an argument here, if anyone is reading this, but I don't believe in rod dippers on Model T's. There should be enough of a space between the front surface of the bearing and the crank shaft throw to let enough oil feed the bearing. Most Model T connecting rod caps are not drilled to match the dippers anyway. How do you know that number 1 is not getting enough oil?? Either way, I would install an external oil line from one of the after market suppliers. The magneto plug is replaced with one that has a flare fitting. It is connected to the front main via a length of copper line to let the extra oil feed the front main bearing. I would not run a Model T without one... Frank
  5. I'm not sure if the chrysler cars in the 80's were the same as the 60's, but they were notorious for failures of the ballast resistor in the distributor circuit. It should be on the firewall someplace and is a block of ceramic material with 2 or 3 terminals. To test, short out the two that are farthest apart and see if it starts. We ALWAYS carried a spare in the clove box when we drove those beasts....
  6. You have lamps on the living room end tables that look like this:
  7. A little help might be in order here.... What is the wheelbase length (center of front axle to center of rear axle)? What is the tire size? It has mechanical brakes and that tell-tale six lug wheel. I can't be sure, but it looks like it might be similar to my Studebaker Big Six. Mine was a 1927, but anything from about 1924 through 1927 would be just about the same. If it is, it would have either a 120" wheelbase or 127" wheelbase.
  8. According to the Guinness Records: The largest-ever car was the Bugatti Royale Type 41, also known as the Golden Bugatti, which was first assembled at Molsheim, France, by the Italian designer, Ettore Bugatti (1882-1947), in 1927. It is over 6.7 m (22 ft) in length. For the highest production numbers of a single model: By December 2000, more than 24,986,607 Toyota Corollas had been produced worldwide. The Corolla was first produced in 1966 and was introduced to the US in 1968 as a two-door subcompact car. By 1970 the Corolla was the second best selling import in the US and by 1988, 10 million had been sold in that country alone. By 1997 the 20 millionth Corolla rolled off the production lines. In the decades since its introduction the Corolla has built up an enviable reputation for reliability. Of course, us Model T guys like to think old Henry had them all beat with over 15 Million cars, but that was almost 80 years ago.... Then there is the Volks Beetle...
  9. By the way, the reason you don't get a jolt from the spark at the points is because the points are in the primary circuit, not the secondary.....
  10. Tom, The condenser on that distrubutor was a large disc type that was about 2" across and located on the outside of the unit about 3" down from the distributor head. These are not available, so simply mount a modern one in the same place and fish the wire up to the points from there. There should be a small tapped hole in the side of the housing shaft that will allow you to mount the condenser. Frank
  11. When you come to Rhinebeck next month, take a look at the steering box that I'll have there. It's a typical hot rod steering box with the frame bracket, so I'm told. I was going to use it on the fronty speedster, but went with the chevy box instead. We'll be behind the grandstand again.
  12. Tom, glad to hear that Carl treated you right. I timed my big six statically. There should be marks on the flywheel that correspond to 'intake valve opens' and 'TDC'. I think I did it by setting the flywheel at top dead center. The distributor should have a manual advance tang that I set fully advanced. Next, with a small test light, I set the points to where they were just opening. With it set like this, it would not start, since it was too far advanced. I then moved the advance lever ever so slightly retarded in several steps to try to find the spot that would allow the engine to start. Then it was a matter of driving the car and getting it to run well without overheating. It took me several hours. When I simply set the flywheel at TDC without advancing the distributor, the car would overheat terribly. This may have been because the timing was retarded. Good luck. Frank
  13. If it still has the factory top, it would be 1923 or later, due to the one-man top. Most likely 23-25. Certainly a Ford T.
  14. Typically, the timing gear and the crank gear will have alignment marks stamped in them. One wil have a single punch mark on the tooth and the other will have a single punch mark on the valley. Since both gears are keyed to the shaft, the rest is easy. You will have to mark the old gear with a mark that aligms with the key and then, if the cam alignment mark is on the missing part, make your own marks. If you have all of the pieces of the broken gear, keep them until you have the new one installed. Frank
  15. From the "Histomobile : The complete online car specifications database." I found this gem: 1929: Chrysler adapts the more efficient downdraft carburetor. Now I don't know if this was the first use of a downdraft carburetor, but this indicates that this was the first year tha Chrysler used the downdraft. Frank
  16. Let's see.... looking at this page, go to the upper left, just below 'Participating Clubs' and click on Antique Automobile Club of America and you're there. Te age of Electronics....
  17. Send me an email....I have a few oldford@frontiernet.net
  18. I forgot to mention::: mark the cam gear and a corresponding spot on either the crank or on a bulkhead somewhere. Just in case the camshaft spins, you'll be able to relocate it in relationship to the crank. Frank
  19. First, remove the crank handle nut. THis is the large nut that engages the crank on the front of the starter pulley. It is standard right hand thread. You may have to put the transmission in low or reverse to keep the crank from spinning. Next, remove the starter pulley, this is obvious once the crank nut is off. I think there are four standard bolts that hold it on. Then, remove the front cover and expose the cam gear. the small cap scres that goes through the distributor ger is all that holds it on. then a puller and you're set. Good luck...... Frank
  20. Tom, I checked my National Service Data and your 1917 Stude is indeed positive ground. I had a '27 Big Six President and at one time had the front of the engine apart because of a stripped pot metal distributor gear. I used a 45 degree bevel gear from Boston gear and it worked fine. I had to mill the hub off the gear on te cam shaft, but all was well after that. If your four is like my big six, the cam gear runs off the crank gear and the generator is run off the cam also, but is a helical gear. I also beleive the water pump gear runs off the other side of the crank. It sounds like the crank gear is not spinning with the crank, since it would be unlikely that both the cam and the water pump gear would break at the same time. The gear is held on with a large key and two things come to mind. Either the crank gear is stripped (unlikely, since it is iron) or the key has broken and damaged the key way. either has the potential to be a big fix. Keep us posted. Frank
  21. I guess you can tell from my username which car I'd recommend. Model T Ford. - 25+ years old with a reputation for reliability. -- You Bet!! - Air Con -- Just fold the windshield down - Cost around $2000-$2500 -- It might be a little more, but it would be worth it. - Must be easily fixed (mechanically) with parts readily available in case we break down. (I am pretty handy with a spanner, but prefer not to). Parts are available through parts suppliers in the mail. - Not too much of a gas guzzler. I get about 18 mpg with mine.... - Hopefully have plenty of room inside. Room for 5 This may sound like I'm joking, but not really. You can see much more of the country at 30 mph than you can at 70 mph. You might not make it all the way to New Orleans, but you sure wold see the Coast just fine... Good luck in your final choice.
  22. According to my info (National Service Data) your Whippet Six took an Autolite MZ-4011 and mounted with three bolts. I'll try my interchange manuals and see if there might be a more common one that may fit....
  23. I should add one other note to the statements above. The Stude was a three speed selective shift, not unlike a late model standard car. The Ford was a pedal operated planetary that was virtually an automatic. I sold the Studebaker because after 5 miles of driving, I couldn't tell the difference between the Stude and a '57 Chevy. I ALWAYS feel like I'm driving an antique car when I'm in the Ford. Two years ago I drove the Ford 250 miles from Rhinebeck, NY to Stowe, VT and it took me two days. This year we will do it in my 1908 one-cylinder REO. I'm going to reserve three days this time. Three days up and three days back. Just try doing 250 miles in three days in a '57 chevy....
  24. I'm going to show some bias here, but since I've owned both Studes and Model T's , I think I can comment. The Big six was one of the best made mid-priced cars of the era. I think it was better than most. The Ford was light and snappy and about the cheapest there was. Even if Henry had not made 15 million of them, they would still be in good supply due to one thing -- vanadium steel. It was much lighter and more flexible than ordinary steel and I think it is the one thing that is most responsible for the Ford's longevity. One of the Ford's weakest points is its electrics. The coils and magneto system were state of the art in 1910, but by 1920, it was old technology. The Stude was conventional coil/distributor from the start. As far as parts for the Stude are concerned, tough to find in quantity, but every once in a while you hit the mother load. There are a ton of Fords, but only a few Studes left....
  25. Size is everything... The Big Six had a larger engine and was generally a much larger car. It had six lug wheels instead of five on the Light Six. There were three models: Big Six, Standard Six, and Light Six. They all had different engines, drive trains, interior appointments. Talk about lack of common parts, even the hubcaps from the different models would not interchange!
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