oldford

I just got the itinerary last night. Looks like we'll have 27 cars, many more than I anticipated. The first day we see the Auburn Heights Preserve. It's supposed to have the largest collection of Stanleys in the world... Can't wait.. Frank

It looks like a 7 passenger version of the last one you put here. 10 spoke front wheels and all... It just needs to have bills on the front fenders. Frank

There are several places where it is just like my EMF engine and several places where it is different. The exhaust manifold and intake appear to be exactly the same, but my water pump and magneto are on the left side, while your engine has the mounts for this on the right side. Even the manifold clamps are the same. The aluminum crankcase casting is much heavier on yours and, of course, my transmission is in the rear, bolted to the differential. Other than the differences, it's the same.... Frank

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1928 Essex parts car, that is.... Frank

The mica between the segments of the commutator are simply insulators. If the mica is missing, it implies that the armature has suffered from excess heat and is most likely warped or has internal damage. I would suggest that you try to find another armature rather than repair this one. You did not mention the model of car you are working on, but unless it is so rare that this is your only option, I'd find another starter... Frank

You may have nailed it, Layden. I found this photo of another 1909 Velie. I think, if you look closely at the original photo, you may even see the underscore under the Velie name on the radiator. Frank

I haven't had rods poured in a while, but they should run you about $75 each to have new babbit poured into the rods ends. If it were my engine, I'd have new babbit poured and be done with it... The way you have it now, what will keep the babbit shells from spinning in the big end? I can't imagine that Metz used inserts that looked like that, but I've been wrong before... Looks like the babbit just let go. Are all of the rods in the same condition? Frank

The purpose of one of the coils in the regulator is to ground the fields as a method of regulating output. Sound like the regulator.... I'd replace it with a solid state unit if it were me... Frank

The bill is the small flange on the very front of the fender and is a separate piece of sheet metal that is crimped into the roll of the fender edge. Frank

Here is a factory photo of a 1911 open touring. Everything is consistent, except for the bills on the front fenders. I'll see if I can find a photo of an Everitt. The only Everitt I ever saw was MUCH bigger than my EMF... Frank

The 1910 EMF had straight rear fenders and no bills on the fronts. This appears to be a 1911 EMF open touring. Frank

When I said it might be a Standard Vanguard, I was thinking of the ones used in the early Morgan +4's, like this one.... Frank

Sounds like a 4 cylinder vanguard engine from Standard Engine used in the TR2's. Frank

I have a set of 5 Firestone Non Skids in very good condition. One is nearly new and the other 4 are used (about 40%). $1200 set. Can send photos... Frank Iaccino 518-755-0986.

Layden, It sure has a large frame horn supporting it, so I figured it to be truck. Are there any identifying marks that would confirm Pierce? Frank

I came across this engine today and could not find any casting marks or stamped numbers. It has a Robert Bosch mag, but I don't know if it is original to the engine. It's in spectacular shape. Any ideas? Frank

You know, This is beginning to sound like a thread on the Model T Ford web site. Often times I read on that site that this Ford is better than that Ford because it has the correct bolt on the framus that was used in the last 3 months of 1917, or something like that. It's his car, let him do what he wants..... Frank

Looks like Model T Ford, 1916-1922, Frank

Typically, the hinge of the headlight door was away from the driver as he stood in front of the radiator to light the lamps. Therefore, the knob to secure the door was to the inside, closest to the radiator. I know some will claim that it doesn't matter, but my arrangement makes sense from a convenience stand point. the one you have in the photo, according to my theory, should be on the other side. Frank

Looks to be a Graham cap around 29-31 or so... Frank

Looks to be a Graham cap around 29-31 or so... Frank

No, sulfuric will not eat the brass. I have removed nickel from small pieces many time and then was able to polish the brass to a high luster. Frank

I have dealt with Kanter and the product is very good. I would be careful of making a headliner to match your seats. I can't remember ever seeing a headliner that matched the seat upholstery. Usually, the headliner was a much lighter cloth (in color) and a solid color to boot. Usually light gray or light brown (taupe). Frank