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oldford

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Everything posted by oldford

  1. Chris, You can check with Ziggy Billus in Ft. Edward, NY. He has done work for me with great results. Just be warned... He can be a bit slow... His business is called the Babbit Pot... Will I see you in Hershey?? CM18 Frank
  2. I think the best way for your better half to get more involved with the old car hobby is to take her into the flea market and forget about all of the shopping stuff... Let her learn the way I did, have her carry all of the parts you buy from the red field to the end of the orange field. If that doesn't get her blood flowing, I don't know what to say... Frank
  3. The one in front might be a 28 Reo, not sure... Frank
  4. I think nzcarnerd nailed it. I found this ad for a 24 Olds with what appears to be the identical body called a 4 pass. coupe. Model 30 I believe. Frank
  5. I know that Essex used Parabeams in 29, maybe 28 also... These look similar... Frank
  6. Specifically looking for clutch plates, some smooth, some lined with friction material. Any condition, I can always get them re-lined. 518-755-0986 or oldfords@verizon.net. Will be in Hershey, booth CM18.
  7. Specifically looking for clutch plates, some smooth, some lined with friction material. Any condition, I can always get them re-lined. 518-755-0986 or oldfords@verizon.net. Will be in Hershey, booth CM18.
  8. My guess is that the resistor is simply used as a current limiter, since the armature is a dead short until it starts to spin. I would try a 4 ohm ballast resistor that was used in the 60's Chrysler product. They are available and cheap... Frank
  9. At the risk of raising the ire of the previous posters, I have to step in with a comment. I have dealt with that 'unnamed tire company' exclusively for over 30 years. I deal with one person almost exclusively and have had only one problem in that 30 years. I had some all white clincher tires go yellow within six months and called to discuss the problem. Rather than be contentious, I explained the problem and it was resolved while I was on the phone. Admittedly, it was near Hershey time and I did not have to deal with shipping, but rather just exchanged the tires on the spot in their tent. Very courteous and very professional. I wouldn't buy from anyone else. I'm not saying that you did not have an issue, but there are 2 sides to every story, but your's seems an extreme one... Frank
  10. The one on the right looks like an early 20's Ford Model T Centerdoor Sedan. I'll work on the one in the middle. Frank
  11. West, You had a very nice piece regarding your son's car, but 280,000 mile on a Subaru??? ... And that is where you started!! I think you are just as bent as I am... Frank
  12. I received an email from the same person and asked for a photo. He said that no photo was available. I deleted the message. Smelled.... Frank
  13. Definitely Model T. The cap slides down over the outside of the radiator neck and the small points get bent in to hold it in place. A small gasket or o ring is used under the lip to keep it from leaking. Aftermarket cap that is quite desirable. Frank
  14. Looking for a decent, correct steering wheel for this truck. Anyone got one?? Frank
  15. I have quite a few parts that are from a single cylinder Reo Truck, if you send me a list, maybe there is a match... Frank
  16. I have just heard from the rebuilder. These valves are that way by design and form part of the combustion chamber. The head is 2.5" in diameter (BIG valve). Luckily, they are all good and reuseable, 'cause the new replacement valve is $120 each. Frank
  17. I tend to think the same way, the valves are too uniform in shape to be that way from damage. Below on the Reo forum, I found that the cups are by design. Frank
  18. By the way, Mark, where on the Reo page did you post this? I've been on the Reo page and can't find any question/answer page. Frank
  19. Thanks for the reply, the exhaust valves are standard shape, but they are badly burned and are the old two piece kind, they will have to go... I have the head at the rebuild shop, so I don't know what they look like, condition wise, but my guess is that they are just as bad. Egge has six intakes but only 5 exhaust. I'll most likely order them, once I am convinced that the tolerances are OK. Need to find one more exhaust valve. Thanks for the info.... Frank
  20. I posted this thread below in the Reo section, but little activity down there. Maybe up here will be better... Reo T6 Valve Question I am in the middle of a valve job on this T6 engine and hope to get a question answered. The intake valves are in the head and are cupped shaped. I have never seen cupped valves like this, so I wonder if they are this shape by design or because of damage. I question damage, since they are all the same and the cupping is quite uniform, but the center of the valve is at least 1/4" below the rim. I have tried to draw a picture, but my skills are lacking. Any help from you T6 experts??? Frank
  21. I am in the middle of a valve job on this T6 engine and hope to get a question answered. The intake valves are in the head and are cupped shaped. I have never seen cupped valves like this, so I wonder if they are this shape by design or because of damage. I question damage, since they are all the same and the cupping is quite uniform, but the center of the valve is at least 1/4" below the rim. I have tried to draw a picture, but my skills are lacking. Any help from you T6 experts??? Frank
  22. 1953 Studebaker, probably a Commander. Frank
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