oldford

1916 was like the 1915 models with the brass style radiator and hood. Not so with this one. DaveK has is right, with the two man top and low black radiator design, this is a 1917-1919. Frank

I think the car is 1920-21. Not sure, but I think Hudson had drum headlights in 22. Frank

My National Service Data show a large circular device that has a circuit breaker as part of it and two sets of lobes that may indicate a switch with two levers. Sorry I can't be more specific, but the device is not identified as anything, but there are wires coming from it to other parts of the car, so here goes.... The terminal identified a 1 goes to the coil primary and is also attached to shunt field of the generator side of the motor generator. This is the third brush circuit on the generator. Hope this is clear enough. Frank

Sorry, but the natural finish of clear varnish is not correct for the Reo. I know it looks better by today's standards, but I don't think too many companies in 1908 varnished the wheels. I know Ford dealers would supply unpainted replacement wood wheels that could have been varnished, but factory finish was paint.

Thanks, Phil for your help. I remember reading about the fenders on the Ford Forum. I had forgotten about that. I know all mean well with the suggestions, but somehow I just cant justify spending $1000 per wheel to make them look like glass. Remember, the Reo was a very inexpensive car and I just can't justify over restoring these wheels. I'll give them the best paint job I can give at the price I can afford... Frank

I've seen several Republic trucks with that radiator standing proud of the hood. Just a guess. Frank

I have thousands of new brushes for antique car starters and generators for cars as far back as 1910 or earlier up to modern iron. I just supplied a couple of sets for a 1920 Premier, so I probably have a set for your car... priced accordingly. Call me at 518-828-1414 or send a note to oldfords@verizon.net. Frank

Crazy question, but I need some advice. I just received 4 beautiful new wood wheels for my Reo that need to be painted. The quote from the body shop was $350 per wheel for the job to paint them. That's more than I paid for the wheel itself!! I was told that Rustoleum has a new high gloss enamel appliance paint that dries hard with a gloss shine. Has anyone tried it, and how did it look when finished??? Frank

1962 Pontiac Catalina Frank

For my part, I prefer the fast pace of the 1 & 2 cylinder tours. My 1908 1 cylinder Reo is just the right combination of drive-ability and primitiveness. I bought it because it was more primitive than my Model T and capable of highway speeds in excess of 15 mph. If you are looking for an early car, give the Reo's a look. Like Ransom Olds said, "There is a tremendous amount of power wasted in a vertical engine." Also, when your axle separates while on tour, there is not much danger, since you're going 20 mph. Frank

Try Bill Randall in or near Utica, NY. He advertises under the name Horn Shop and does a lot of electric horn restorations. He may be able to rewind the coil. If not, He might have a suggested source. Frank

Graham, about 1932 Frank

Go to an auto parts store and ask to see a Dorman catalog. I'm sure they will have something that will work. Frank

Those a most likely casting numbers. I had one for a mid teens Hudson that looked very much like that. Frank

Most of the early Strombergs have the same cylindrical float. You should be able to find a good used one in a parts carburetor. Pick up some old strombergs for parts and check them out... Frank

I have never seen a production Model T with a rear entrance tonneau. I have quite an extensive Ford library and none of the books mention such a body. I think this would be a custom body that was placed on the chassis. There were tons of companies that specialized in Ford replacement parts and accessories. As far as the open valve engine, the change to closed valve occurred in mid 1911, so if your memory is correct, it was a 1911 or earlier. Early bodies were made by Beaudette or Wilson, but were made to Ford specs. There are slight difference between the two, but not to the extent of a rear entrance. Wish I could see photos... Frank

Midgely wheels had an expandable ring on the clincher bead that would hold the tire to the rim. Rim was permanently held in place similar to non-demountables. Could these be Midgely wheels?? Frank

The Model A guess was just that, a guess. I don't know much about those high speed automobiles. (It has 4 wheel brakes, you know!). Frank

Model A Ford?

I think the 'starter button' is really a vent pull. I've had several 60's vintage Fords and all had vent pull in that location. I also think the 827 is bogus. Why would a car with 827 miles require a service tag on the A pillar? Also, notice the tires have different tread patterns. I smell a rat.... Frank

The original cardboard backing can be purchased at most any trim shop. It is dense and a standard sewing machine may not have the power to punch the needle through the cardboard. Also the area under the machine between the foot and the arm needs to be big enough. The weight of the thread needed is also an issue. Most light weight home sewing machines can't handle the heavy duty thread. You can try, but the labor involved to do it right is most likely equal to the cost of materials. Frank

If the sheet metal is correct for the year, must be 1915 or 1916. They were the only years with louvers in the hoods. Frank

If you can make 7/16 " diameter high head bolts, I'll trade you for them.... Frank

Are the bolts you need 1/2" in diameter? If so, I have MANY, NOS (never used) but will need to be wire brushed. $5.00 each with nut. Frank

Thank you, I'll check it out. Frank