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Everything posted by oldford

  1. I'm looking for a worm and sector steering box for the Chevy 490. I was told this was easily adapted to the Ford Model T.
  2. 1922 Centerdoor; older restoration in excellent condition and a strong driver. Pictures can be seen at <A HREF="http://home.att.net/~oldford/22cdoor.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://home.att.net/~oldford/22cdoor.htm</A> <BR>Will be in Hershey Chocolate Field CM18. $12000. 845-876-4800
  3. I did not want to start something, but I agree with you completely. Herco is out for themselves. I don't know if this is a rule, but I'm beginning to think this is just a rumor. If anything more is heard, I'll post it. the 'unregistered' label must be because I forgot to add my password.
  4. I ordered an exhaust system for my Mustang from them two years ago and was disapointed. One of the pipes was not even close to being correct and his only position was that it was my problem to solve. I have seen them at most of the eastern shows this summer and find it hard to believe they are home making your pipes while at the shows. I would not expect the pipes to show up until January. I bought from Kepich in Florida and was very happy. I will not by from Waldron again.
  5. Hey, Blackstar! I gave you the vacuum tank. How is it working for you. I'll remember the empty trailer. The question is, will it be coming BACK empty....
  6. Well, I can't speak for others, but I would be interested. Of Course it depends on the price. I just received a pair of steel gears from Boston Gear that cost me $35 for the pair. These are blanks that I have yet to machine to fit properly. since I have the tools, it's not a problem, but even my time is money, so to speak. The other problem with these gears is they only have 15 teeth. The originals had 21 and would be easier to set timing. Do you have a price range you were considering????<P>Frank
  7. My spotter's guide shows 31 X 4 tires on a '23 Light Six. This would be 23" wheels. If the wheels on your '19 are 23", I would guess they are the same size. If you need a light six crank shaft in good used condition, let me know.
  8. The specs for the car engines are: Fireing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4; Spark Plug Gap: .032" - .036"; Ignition Timing: (Auto Trans) 12 Deg BTDC (Std) 6 Deg BTDC; Point Gap: .024" - .026". Need anything else?? Good Luck.
  9. Thanks for the info. I emailed him and will wait for his reply. Saratoga is not too far, What body style do you have?
  10. Do you have a photo you can send? oldford@worldnet.att.net
  11. Yes, if it is a pick-up on a car chassis. I have a touring and there is more than enough room to spare.
  12. I asked this on the Stude forum, but so far, no response: My '27 Studebaker Big six engine just stripped the 45 degree pot metal gears off the cam shaft. Is anyone making a replacement set? Thanks.....Frank
  13. My '27 Big six engine just stripped the 45 degree pot metal gears off the cam shaft. Is anyone making a replacement set? Thanks.....Frank
  14. I need a head gasket for a 1931 REO Royale. The gasket fits a model 8-30, 8-31, or 8-35 8 cylinder 358 CID engine. Please contact via email or call 845-229-7828. email is oldford@worldnet.att.net or viaccino@worldnet.att.net
  15. I have a complete set of top irons and bows with decent cloth for patterns for a 7 passenger touring. It also has the bevelled glass rear window. If interested, let me know
  16. John, see if you can mount them from the back side of the rim. If you do scratch the rim, touch-up paint is less likely to be seen on the inside.
  17. Can someone help? I just installed a Rayfield Carburetor on my Fronty and cannot adjust the darn thing. It is similar to the<BR>Model M shown in the Dykes Manual in the carburator section, but seems to be a mirror image. Unfortunately, the photos in<BR>the Dykes are not clear. I need to identify the high speed adjustment. Dykes has an arrow that points into the air horn but does<BR>not show it clearly. In the photo at: <A HREF="http://home.att.net/~oldford/rayfield4.jpg" TARGET=_blank>http://home.att.net/~oldford/rayfield4.jpg</A> <BR>the lower inset shows the carb from the top. Inside the air horn is a set screw. I have<BR>had it out, but cannot even tell what the damn thing adjusts. the low speed adjustment is the large thumbwheel to the left near<BR>the throttle plate. If I could just get it coarsly adjusted, I'm sure I could tweek it from there. Thanks guys....
  18. In my Mustang, the only failure was the lights failed to come on, but then, I do not have power brakes. The question is, "Why does this only happen to the switch and not the other rubber parts in the system, like wheel cylinder rubbers." The new parts today are not affected by silicone fluid. I sent my disassembled switch to Bill Canon of Skinned Knuckles when it failed, but I never heard back from him. As near as I can tell, the fluid got behind the diaphram and there was no longer a pressure differential pressent to cause the switch to operate. This would indicate to me that the diaphram shrunk just enough to allow the fluid to get behind it. The fix is easy enough, but I don't understand why it happens.
  19. When I rebuilt my President several years back, I contacted Egge Machine in California and the made my pistons for me. They had all the specs and they fit perfectly. I just asked for .030 over standard and they made them for me. Been very happy....
  20. It's funny that you mention the stop light switch problem. When I redid my '64 1/2 Mustang, I used silicone brake fluid because of all of the reasons above, but I, too, go through switches about once every 18 months. I even cut one apart to see what failed, but found it to be normal. The nearest I can tell, is that the fluid was allowed to get behind the diaphram. This prevents the diaphram from closing the switch contacts. The diaphram is supposed to be impervious to silicone fluid, but they still fail. I can count on a failure so regularly, that I replace it every spring just to keep it from failing on the road.
  21. I can't speak specifically to your car, but in general, the wheels would have been painted the same color as the lower half of the car. If the fenders and running boards are black, then the wheels would have been black. Of course, you could just paint the wheels the color you like, and if the color is appropriate for the period, it would look just fine.
  22. Gents, I have what I believe is a Light Six crankshaft in good condition. It rings when you strike it. I know it is Stude, but not sure if Light Six or not. It is 33 1/4" long with a 6 bolt flange on the flywheel end and has 4 mains. If you are interested, I will measure the journals with a micrometer.
  23. Thanks much. I had some people tell me that the button was used to check the charge in the dry cell batteries before starting the car, but that would have taken a set of normally open contacts, and these are normally closed. It makes sense that the points of the contacts, when opened by the push button would fire the secondary of the coil, just like those in the distributor. Thanks again.
  24. Gents, I just located a nice example of the Splitdorf ignition switch that can switch the source from battery or magneto. It is the round type with the lever at the bottom that reads, "Mag-Off-Bat" and has a removeable key in the center. There is a push button at 12 o'clock that seems to be for a set of momentary contacts, but it is hard to tell. The switch is missing one of the pair of contacts, so it is only a guess, but I think it is a vairly good guess. My question is this, "What circuit was connected to this momentary set of contacts?" The 1912 Dykes manual shows the push button, but I cannot find any circuit that has the push button shown. Also, since my National Service Data electrical guide only goes back to 1915, I don't have any information as to which car companies used this switch. I would date this switch from about 1905-1907, but I'm not sure. Any clues? Thanks in advance.<P>Frank
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