oldford

The Reo had a standard grease seal that had a felt washer in the middle and was tapped in with a light hammer. Nothing fancy. Just one word of caution on your plan to replace the balls. About one year ago, I replaced all the balls in my bearings with new ones from McMaster Carr. The races were fine and just the balls were worn. I put maybe 400 miles on the new balls in a tour last summer and when I checked the bearings this spring I was surprised. The new balls had worn the old races very badly and they were mushroomed beyond use. Just keep an eye on them.... The new balls wore the old races like I never would have imagined. I'll post a photo of them tomorrow for you... Frank

Are you sure the race is machined into the hub? It looks like the race may be a separate part that is pressed onto the spindle. I would also think that the cup in the hub is also pressed in, since these are wear points and the bearings were most likely supplied by another vendor (Timken maybe?) I just went through a similar process with my Reo hubs and bearings and had the hubs reworked to accept Model T inner bearings and Model A outer bearings. They are readily available and roller bearings are far superior to the ball type. It was simply a matter of pressing sleeves of the correct dimension into the hubs to accept the new races. Frank

The coil box certainly has a Ford Model T coil and the box looks like it was made from a Model T coil box. I think it looks more like a home made set-up made from Model T stuff and maybe used to power an electric fence. The metal box would have protected the coil from the weather. Just a guess... Frank

Thanks for all the good advice here. I think I've made my decision... I will modify the hubs (both inner and outer bearing surfaces) to accept modern bearings. The inner will use a Model T roller bearing and the outer will use a Model A roller bearing. The only other modification will be to turn the inner spindle surface down by .025" to accept the Model T race. This way, I figure, I can use a common bearing that has relatively small cost of replacement. Now I'm off to the machinist (Mr. Wizard)... Frank

I just spoke with a gent that specializes in spray metal repair of small parts used in the aircraft industry. He informed me that this technique is not suited to bearing repair, due to the high point stresses associated with bearings. Looks like my only option is to rework the hubs to accept new style bearings.... Frank

I guess I forgot to mention (at least in this thread) that these are the inner and outer front wheel bearings. I have found modern replacements, but they will need hub modifications, which I was trying to avoid. I thought I would explore other possibilities before going that route. Frank

I tried Olcar, he doesn't hold out much hope, but he's looking. Why do you think the repair is such a tall order? Frank

I put a "Parts Wanted" ad on the Horseless Carriage forum below looking for bearings for my 1908 Reo, and had a few good responses. I began to think of the possibility of repair rather than replace. These are ball and cup type bearings that Timkin says was obsolete when it was new in the car and they have no source for them. The balls are replaceable from McMaster-Carr, but the cups and cones are galled beyond use. Has anyone had parts repaired using the spray metal technique and can anyone recommend a reputable place to do the repair? I'm thinking of something similar to crankshaft repairs with spray metal. Any thoughts? Frank

These are ball type with cup and separate cones. The inner: ID:1.25"; OD: 3.20". Outer: ID: .75"; OD: 2.30". I have been in touch with Timken and they have found modern replacements that have the same ID's but I will need to shim the OD's Still, it would be fortuitous to find the original bearings. Timken numbers for the originals are: inner cup: 1920; inner cone: 1950; outer cup: 1510; outer cone: 1550. I also tried Olcar Bearing, and George is trying to find something, but does not look good... Frank

I'm in need of a set of 1908 Reo 1 Cylinder (Model G) wheel bearings. These are ball type bearings with cup races. Any info would help. Frank

I found this photo on line of a 32 Nash Advanced 8 with suicide doors, yet the Ambassador did not. Frank

After reading this thread a few weeks ago, I thought about freshening my top. The top is old and faded badly, but I just don't want to go to the extent of replacing the top, so I thought, "What have I got to lose?" I went to the web site for Simply Spray Fabric Paint and read the FAQ's. I called the help desk and asked a lot of questions. I decided to try it and painted the top today. I can't say enough about this product. Six cans for $59.00 or there abouts, plus shipping. I removed the complete top with the irons and set them up in my garage and painted away.... The paint is very thin and does not spray like regular spray paint, but the coverage is good. Some places needed two coats where the fading was real bad. The top is 8 feet long and 6 feet wide and six cans were enough to do the complete top and both sides of the rear curtain. One can did not spray at all, so I'll test the guarantee that they will replace any can that does not spray. All in all, I'm very pleased. Any comments??? photos are before and after... Frank

If your car overheats that quickly and there is no power on acceleration, it sounds like your spark is retarded. When I had my '27 President, I could never set the timing properly using the marks on the flywheel. I set my initial timing far advanced so it would not start and then backed off until it ran correctly. My distributor had a manual advance plate in it which made it easy to do, yours may not have that feature. Frank

Since it is aluminum and has enforcing ribs around the bolt holes, and the pedals are lettered, it is a 1913-1914 cover. If the number written in yellow is the asking price, about average.... Frank

It has the marks from a Kingston or a Jacobson-Brandow switch, but I think it is for four coils, not eight. The primary and secondary contacts are side by side instead of over and under. Frank

Can you post a photo? Frank

I feel slighted, I just received a 'Last Chance' email this morning. Does that mean I have more emails to go before I get my final notice.... Can't wait... Frank

Looks to be early Dodge Bros. Probably 1915-1919 or so. They show up quite often on ebay.... This one is incomplete. Frank

My confirmation card is postmarked April 14..... Frank

The observers are all in shirts and ties, hardly the Mechanic's uniform of the day. Could it be they are engineers demonstrating a new Dynamometer set-up back in the day.... Frank

Don't run both wires back to the switch. I would take the negative wire and ground it to the chassis somewhere close to the fan. Then run the positive wire from the fan through the firewall to the switch and then another wire from the switch to a fused positive feed in the fuse box. Frank

1918. Found this photo.... Frank

Hubcap is 1929 Essex. Frank

Definitely a 27 set of gauges. That was the first year for a temp gauge in the dash. Frank

Sure looks like a 49-52 Dodge cab to me.... Frank