old-tank

Jack, apparently you were not at the Ames meet. That was the year there was not going to be a meet because no chapters stepped up. You had to be there to see how good everything worked...it rivaled the great meets you put on in Danvers. I would go back right now. It is sad to see complaining about a meet not attended and hurtful to those that worked hard to put it on. Willie

Nice! I'll bet the ride is improved with the new ride height.

Like Dandy Dave says...

Paying a premium for cosmetics Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ballast resister Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Read the MSDS on that product ( or any other you are considering ). I'll bet those mechanics are selling the stuff. ( another product mechanics are pushing is BG 44K, which is just high priced mineral spirits )

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cok-59600/reviews/ Guess which one is mine.....Since we can't review vendors on these forums :mad:

Are you talking wheel or tire width? Anything bigger than P225/75R-15 on your stock 5.5" wheels will rub. Also wider and heavier tires will make you 55 ride like crap.

For sale: 1955 Buick Century, Model 63 -- 4 dr hardtop -- Dover white: Gulf turquoise: Dover white code BTB; red:white:black interior code 467, 23,xxx original miles. Power steering, power brakes, factory air (always working). New carpets and seat upholstery; all other original. Painted last in 1976 (lacquer) and the paint is failing. No rust or rot ever. Scored Silver award BCA national meet (no points lost on authenticity or workmanship, only condition). New tires on newly painted rims (there's a grand and 4 hours right there) Initial contact through these forums by private message. Don't consider this car if you like researching/searching for missing parts and restoring the best of 3 that you bought. Pictures: http://www.buickrestorer.com/centurys/t63 All of the toys listed in my profile are for sale: convertible at http://forums.aaca.org/f117/1955-bui...le-364805.html others are waiting for pictures and prose. $25,000

For sale: 1955 Buick Century, Model 63 -- 4 dr hardtop -- Dover white: Gulf turquoise: Dover white code BTB; red:white:black interior code 467, 23,xxx original miles. Power steering, power brakes, factory air (always working). New carpets and seat upholstery; all other original. Painted last in 1976 (lacquer) and the paint is failing. No rust or rot ever. Scored Silver award BCA national meet (no points lost on authenticity or workmanship, only condition). New tires on newly painted rims (there's a grand and 4 hours right there) Initial contact through these forums by private message. Don't consider this car if you like researching/searching for missing parts and restoring the best of 3 that you bought. Pictures: http://www.buickrestorer.com/centurys/t63 All of the toy listed in my profile are for sale: convertible at http://forums.aaca.org/topic/229131-1955-buick-century-convertible/?tab=comments#comment-1193524 others are waiting for pictures and prose. $25,000

LIKE!!

All those issues can be worked out, I'm talking about keeping cold air in the convertible at highway speeds. Right now mine has trouble keeping heat in at an outside temp of 50*, whereas a sedan heated well at -20*. Most available units will put cold air in your face, everything else is hot. Willie

Tell your Australian friends...all the other toys in my profile are for sale (working on the pictures and prose)

I want you to hurry and put the air conditioning in it...curious about the efficiency if a/c in a mid 50's convertible

I don't think your transmission has detents inside the transmission, which makes it harder to adjust. Send me a PM and I will send a link to a pdf (Dynaflow Doctor) which included a template for making a test selector quadrant. Willie

Replacement pistons are a compromise and are usually lower compression. Where did you get the pistons. Stock cranking compression on a 55 322 is 170psi and replacements from Egge are 120psi with lower domes. There is a noticeable decrease in performance. Check Mudbone restoration thread http://forums.aaca.org/f163/55-century-66r-project-292364.html he is the last one I know of that researched this. As far as correct engine check the number. Willie

ttt

ttt changed info in post #1

You need to go back to post#24. This ain't the first time Matt has confused me too.:confused:

While 'helping' my transmission builder tear apart a dynaflow, I told him how I used to repeatedly do full throttle shifts at 65mph (about the time the valves and/or points floated ). I was expecting a lecture on abuse, but he just gave me a puzzled look and said "won't hurt it". I don't do that much anymore...like at one of the Flint meets I declined a trip down the dragstrip since that thing had to get me 1400 miles to home. :eek:

See your service manual for your car...it has adjustment procedures. Ball bearings on a 52 would need some preload. New shoes may need to be adjusted every 100 miles for awhile.

Post more pictures after you get it. It looks like a trip through a blast cabinet will be all it needs. A 'sleeve' is available (I have repaired some really bad ones that way --- will cost more than the item ). The 'sleeve' is called a shaft repair sleeve in case you run into someone with more than a little confusion.

John try to behave yourself and get well soon. Most hospitals and rehabs have wifi...somebody get that man a laptop. I miss his words of wisdom. Willie

Robert, If cleaning and greasing did not revive it, the paddle is probably worn and/or shrunken and not sealing. I did mine like you did and it lasted until I got 2000 miles from home...sent it to Wiperman and it lasted 2 weeks...he finally put in a new paddle and it is strong at all wiper and engines speeds and is infinitely variable. Willie

Paul, That is properly called a "skip-a-part". Most of us install them on the second shelf or drawer under the workbench...they usually have plenty of company. Willie