certjeff1

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Everything posted by certjeff1

  1. I think both fuses and fusibles can be used and will do their job. I pointed out the 2 vehicles in the last post to show that you can make all the safety precautions you want sometimes they do not always protect the way we want them to protect. With the 71 Dodge we replaced the fusible with a fuse only because we were not sure what caused the fusible to burn and do to its close location to the plastic bulkhead connector we did not want to have to replace that a second time if we did not find the cause of the failure. It was good that we did it the way we did because it took a couple of fuses blowing before we found the faulty regulator. I generally do not recommend using universal wiring kits for the novice, I know they are usually less money, but you spend more labor time making it fit. They also require changing to negative ground, getting rid of the ammeter in favor of a voltmeter, glass fuse for blade and other items. They become cookie cutter. These cars and electrical items worked well for years and now our suppliers to make their life easier are telling us we need to change things do to safety or poor quality. It is the same situation when mechanics or friends tell people they must convert from 6v to 12v to get their vehicles electrical system to work properly. Just because they do not know how to fix these older systems does not mean there aren't people out here that can. Just because the box auto parts store cant afford to stock the correct part does not mean that you should have to change. Find a source that does have the correct part.
  2. Fuses and fusible links are designed to protect the wiring from any type of circuit fault caused by amperage overload. But over the years I have seen both fail to protect the wiring. Most recently we had a 1971 Dodge Dart Swinger that the fusible link from the starter relay to the fuse panel fried, but by the time in burned thru it damaged the bulkhead connector beyond reuse. We found the voltage regulator was full fielding the alternator causing the amperage overload. Many years back we had a late 80's Ford Crown Victoria that a local NAPA store had supplied 6 alternators for. When they gave us a call. We said we would supply an alternator on one that if ours failed we wanted the car. We made that stipulation since we could not open any of the NAPA alternators without voiding the warranty. Ours did fail, we got the car, opened the alternator and found the number 1 positive diode burned. This is caused by load dump. After repairing the alternator and running tests we found that the AC compressor was drawing 75A, without ever blowing and fuses or burning any fusible links. We compared another Crown Vic and it was only drawing 15a.
  3. Let's start with the horn. Most companies like Ron Francis, Painless and American Autowire use a common power feed for multiple accessories that use constant power. Such as horns, dome light, courtesy light things like that. The fuse panel might be marked BAT or B+. If you have fuses marked in the way pull and check for power at your BAT terminal on your horn relay. If you lose power then the circuit is protected even though it is not listed. As for the starter which circuit do you want to protect? The ignition to solenoid or the motor? The solenoid circuit would only require a small maybe 10A, many small industrial equipment companies do this but you very seldom see it with car companies. The starter motor itself that is a different story. General rule of thumb is 1A of starter draw per cubic inch of engine size. Ford back in the early 90's used this setup it did not work great. They used an ANL type fuse at about 175A. If you jump started the car it would blow. I even saw them blow if the wipers were frozen to the windshield and you tried to operate them. The only way to get a fuse setup for that kind of amperage is thru a modern car audio company. Those loud obnoxious stereo systems you hear before you see them can have a fuse setup over 400A.
  4. I recommend John Wolf in Cleveland. I have used them for years. 1-440-942-0083
  5. I also recommend John Wolf have used them for years. 1-440-942-0083
  6. You are not going to damage the diodes. I have been building alternators for 35 years.
  7. Disconnect any wiring to the alternator. Using jumper cables go from the battery straight to the alternator. Take the negative to the alternator housing. And tap the positive to the output terminal on the rear of the alternator. If you do not get any sparks it is a negative ground alternator.
  8. Dirty or loose connections create high resistance and thus poor, low or intermittent charging voltage. Not an excessive reading. The light simply turns on the alternator. If you have a bad bulb the alternator will not turn on. As far as loose or poor connections in the light circuit causing charging problems this will not happen. If he had said that there was no voltage in the red wire at the regulator then that could cause voltage excessive readings as that is the regulator voltage sensing wire. And if the regulator reads no voltage in that wire it thinks the battery is dead and tells the alternator to produce everything it has. But changing engine rpms will not put the alternator into normal charging range. It will be high until you fix that wiring problem. Yes bad connections at the alternator can cause output problems. Always poor or low readings. You will see a normal 14v reading at the alternator output post and a much lower reading at the battery.
  9. 17 plus volts sounds to me that you are in a full field situation and that would also be why you hear the alternator whine. If you put an ammeter in the circuit you will probably see 37 to 55 amps. When an alternator is producing amperage it creates a whine. The more amps the louder the whine. When the system falls into the normal voltage range you will probably see the amperage go down as well. And the alternator quiets down. It is very common with mechanical regulators to see the voltage rise slightly as you take the engine up from idle. Not the other way around. At this point because you have your light function back and the voltage does drop into the normal range I would say your wiring is fine. I would take the regulator off and test it with an alternator on an alternator test bench. If you get the same readings on the test bench then yes you have a bad regulator if you get good readings then you have something wrong in your system and it is affecting this regulator differently than the other one.
  10. Also check the red wire in the regulator plug. This is your battery sense and must have battery voltage at all times.
  11. Yes if your regulator is rubber shock mounted then you must ground it . Delco regulators usually have a predrilled hole on the metal base by the single mounting ear specifically for a ground connection. I also ask why you were making the change to start?
  12. For sale 1 power window motor and the power driver seat switch, motor, relays and wiring. Everything works. The power window motor spins in both directions. The seat moves forward and back. Up and down, tilt forward and back. The seat framework is cracked and bent. See all pictures. Video of items working available.
  13. I'm with Jason. I always ask for the cutout or regulator when we do generator work. It is easier and you have fewer variables when you make any regulator adjustments on a generator test bench. As long as your guy has a test bench he can spin the generator with then he can run the generator and regulator as a set and make any adjustments. I'm not saying you can't make adjustments on the car. But when someone is not familiar with making adjustments you could end up costing yourself a regulator. And Standard Motor Products does not just hand out replacement regulators for free.
  14. Thank you guys for the endorsement. If we can help give us a call 1-440-439-1100.
  15. I have installed many alternators and alternators inside generators on classic cars over the years. There are many reasons people make the choice that they make, cost, look, reliability and functionality. There are some things you should know going in. Because early cars idle at lower rpms then the cars that come equipped with them from the factory you will need to get a smaller diameter pulley then that of your generator otherwise you will have the same no/low idle charge rate. Also alternators have a very distinct whistle to them that generators do not have. It will over power the normal sound of your engine. The whistle changes based on electrical load and rpm. Many people complain thinking there is something wrong. Lastly alternators require more belt tension than generators. This can cause problems with other belt driven items such as water pumps if they have soft bushings inside rather then bearings. You can only tighten them so much. With alternators inside generators you have to watch how they are constructed. If you simply press a smaller alternator into a generator you can create a internal cooling problem. I think one of the hot rod magazines did an article on this years ago. They had a high failure rate on hot days. Also with this design you have a very small group of alternators to choose from and this creates a parts availability issue. I had one that used a 1970's Isuzu design inside it. Not many parts available for it anymore. You can go with a Powermaster brand they have limited applications but used a common GM alternator design. I know there are a couple of companies out west that if you send your generator they will convert it, but have not had any dealings with them.
  16. Take your time. If you can get the correct part you are better off. But at least this gives you an option and you can always keep up the search. You can never have enough parts for these old vehicles.
  17. Including shipping I would like $25.00.
  18. Yes it is 17mm. I tried the pulley on an armature it feels good and tight. No that hole does not go thru. Not sure why that is there.
  19. Looked thru my pulleys. The closest I have is for 26-28 Chevys and Pontiacs. It is smaller in diameter by about 1/2". From the back side to the center of the v is just over 1/2".
  20. The mesh is correct. Remy was the only company I have ever seen use mesh. I have a total of 20 of the mesh type brush and 4 of the solid copper brush. Jeff
  21. certjeff1

    Starter Drive

    I come up with starter Delco-Remy #726-C and it used 16789 Bendix. I bought over 1000 NOS and NORS Bendix gears last year and that is not one of them. But I would recommend Van Bergen and Greener to rebuild your if it is rebuildable. My family has used them for over 70 years. Jeff
  22. Steve I have looked thru several of my original Delco-Remy parts manuals and none of them show a pulley part number. Which tells me that the vehicle manufacturer supplied the pulley not Delco-Remy. I do have an assortment of pulleys. I might have something but can't promise. Jeff
  23. Mike According to my Remy catalog it shows the brush having a braided wire lead with a flag terminal with 2 holes. Is this what you have? Jeff
  24. Paypal invoice is on its way. My company name is Certified Auto Electric.
  25. Yes paypal works. Just need email address.