certjeff1

If you have a complete unit with a bad armature you can send it out to be rewound. I have used International Winding Inc for years.

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Any 1956 to 1961 Ford application. The ACE Electric #ST-210-HT.

Once you get it starting thru the key. When you go to polarize the regulator you want to disconnect the FLD wire at the regulator. On Ford systems this is usually the middle terminal. Using the FLD wire touch it to the BAT terminal, touch lasts no more then 2 seconds, you should get a small spark. Reconnect the FLD wire and start the engine. Mechanical regulators take 3-5 minutes to warmup to operating temperature. So keep the engine rpms up off of idle and watch your voltmeter. The voltage to settle in at 14. If it never reaches 14 then you need to make adjustments to the regulator.

The armature can be reused. You need to replace the field coils to slow down the starter.

You should be able to take your starter to a local rebuilder and they can convert it to 12v. If you are looking for a mini high torque then no you will have to go with an imported unit. If you cant find someone local let me know we can do this. Jeff

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Brushes come in different copper to carbon mixes. Higher carbon the softer the brush. Starters require higher copper mixes. Generators and alternators require higher carbon.In the case of this Remy starter they used as original equipment a mesh type. They eventually switched to the solid type that we are all used to seeing. The copper to carbon mixture did not change just the design appearance.

I have over 1000 NOS Bendix drives in stock. Here are some pictures of the R11X.

Yes we can ship to Australia. What is your application or is it the same as this post?

According to my Bendix catalog that should be a Delco 712D starter and it takes R11X Bendix drive. I have complete NOS Bendix drives for that starter. Give me a call 1-440-439-1100 8A-5P ET M-F . Jeff

I have the solid copper in stock give me a call 1-440-439-1100 M-F 5A-5P ET.

Here is a little extra info on the Powergen. I know one of the designers. They used aluminum for the frames and field case. That is why it is lighter. It is slightly wider then the stock generator. This was needed to fit the alternator components inside. The best aspect of these is they used the Delco-Remy CS130 alternator, used on GM vehicles roughly 1985 to 1995. Any local rebuilder can make repairs to these without shipping it back tp Powermaster after it is out of the Warranty period. Regitar is the name of the company that supplies the voltage regulator and rectifier to Powermaster and they sell directly to us rebuilders. Whether you get a 12v or 6v, positive or negative ground unit. The rotor, stator, bearings and brushes are also just stock CS130 parts.

Do you have a group 2 battery? Many auto parts stores sell the group 1. They look the same but it is too small for the Lincoln. What happens to the voltage at the battery. at the starter solenoid and at the starter during the 1 or 2 cranks? 6 volts when the starter is not cranking does not tell us much but voltage readings during cranking tells us a lot.

American Autowire makes factory correct wiring harnesses for GM products. CE Niehoff is a very reputable company. They no longer make parts for automotive applications. So I would not be hesitant of using the regulator. GM wiper systems can be a pain. The main thing to know is that the switch sends a ground signal to the motor and washer pump to operate them. They get power with the ignition switch.

The diode you need was used in Chrysler and Ford alternators in the 1960"s. It is 25A rated. You use a positive diode for positive ground and a negative diode for negative ground. The hardest part is soldering the diode to the plate inside the cutout. Most DIYer's do not have the proper type of soldering equipment to do this.

I have 34 starter and generator cores for 1920's to 1930's Packard 6 & 8 cylinder models. There are some gears, some mounting plates, air rams and air ducts as well as brush covers. Most are Owen-Dyneto many different part #'s. I do have an Atwater-Kent 6484 starter. I have 1 Delco-Remy 739F starter and 1 Autolite MAW4024 starter. I also have quite a few NOS Bendix gears. I have not tested them and they are being sold as cores needing to be rebuilt.

I know i'm a little late to this party, internet issues. You have to be careful when using digital meters on vehicles with mechanical points. Such as ignition, voltage regulator and relays. Digital meters can be very sensitive and overreact to the opening and closing of the points. Making you think you have a severe voltage fluctuation. Whenever I am setting a mechanical regulator on my bench I use an analog meter. Cost does not matter I have seen Fluke brand meters with this issue. Put your meter on your daily driver fluctuation most likely will not be seen.

I'm with Bloo. You have to see how many ohms resistance you are seeing with the tank full. If you are not within the gauge parameters you will not get an accurate reading. In your case only 1/2 full. Senders and gauges not being ohm matched is the most common issue I see with gas gauges after a bad ground at the sender. Jeff

Yes. Do you have an autloite starter number or application? I have over 15000 brushes in stock.

Just checked their most recent catalog and no they do not offer that setup in 6v.

All of the new movable contacts are tin coated. I believe Delco-Remy started doing this in 24V solenoid applications and the aftermarket followed suit and used it in all applications.. The stationary contacts were downsized with the 10MT starter. Some movable contact disc;s can be flipped. Check both sides of the disc. If you have a C clip that can be slid out. Use a flat blade screwdriver to take the tension off the spring. Looking at your pictures that looks like normal years of use wear. If any of the contacts have turned purple or gold that would indicate high heat which would mean a voltage drop problem. Since all your contacts are still nice and copper and your movable is still tin plated with very small arc marks that is why I say normal wear. Jeff

I have everything needed to build the Delco-Remy 714-J from my parts collection. Jeff

You will not find one on any shelf. I would recommend investing in making the car as reliable as they were when they were new. People did not ride around with extra batteries back in the day. You can keep it original 6v and be just as reliable as any 12v system. You can keep the generator system and have it be just as reliable as any alternator. I don't care what any of todays mechanics say.