certjeff1

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Everything posted by certjeff1

  1. I have 34 starter and generator cores for 1920's to 1930's Packard 6 & 8 cylinder models. There are some gears, some mounting plates, air rams and air ducts as well as brush covers. Most are Owen-Dyneto many different part #'s. I do have an Atwater-Kent 6484 starter. I have 1 Delco-Remy 739F starter and 1 Autolite MAW4024 starter. I also have quite a few NOS Bendix gears. I have not tested them and they are being sold as cores needing to be rebuilt.
  2. I know i'm a little late to this party, internet issues. You have to be careful when using digital meters on vehicles with mechanical points. Such as ignition, voltage regulator and relays. Digital meters can be very sensitive and overreact to the opening and closing of the points. Making you think you have a severe voltage fluctuation. Whenever I am setting a mechanical regulator on my bench I use an analog meter. Cost does not matter I have seen Fluke brand meters with this issue. Put your meter on your daily driver fluctuation most likely will not be seen.
  3. I'm with Bloo. You have to see how many ohms resistance you are seeing with the tank full. If you are not within the gauge parameters you will not get an accurate reading. In your case only 1/2 full. Senders and gauges not being ohm matched is the most common issue I see with gas gauges after a bad ground at the sender. Jeff
  4. Yes. Do you have an autloite starter number or application? I have over 15000 brushes in stock.
  5. Just checked their most recent catalog and no they do not offer that setup in 6v.
  6. All of the new movable contacts are tin coated. I believe Delco-Remy started doing this in 24V solenoid applications and the aftermarket followed suit and used it in all applications.. The stationary contacts were downsized with the 10MT starter. Some movable contact disc;s can be flipped. Check both sides of the disc. If you have a C clip that can be slid out. Use a flat blade screwdriver to take the tension off the spring. Looking at your pictures that looks like normal years of use wear. If any of the contacts have turned purple or gold that would indicate high heat which would mean a voltage drop problem. Since all your contacts are still nice and copper and your movable is still tin plated with very small arc marks that is why I say normal wear. Jeff
  7. I have everything needed to build the Delco-Remy 714-J from my parts collection. Jeff
  8. You will not find one on any shelf. I would recommend investing in making the car as reliable as they were when they were new. People did not ride around with extra batteries back in the day. You can keep it original 6v and be just as reliable as any 12v system. You can keep the generator system and have it be just as reliable as any alternator. I don't care what any of todays mechanics say.
  9. Based off of a couple of quick measurements. I might have what you are looking for. I will do some better more accurate measurements tomorrow. Jeff
  10. Steve Yes I have both the generator and starter brushes in stock. Jeff
  11. I am looking for the glovebox light switch for a 1949 Cosmopolitan.
  12. I look at your question of mechanical vs electronic simply from a diagnostic view. As I believe both are reliable. With any type of mechanical item you can see wear and you can see burned and with experience you can learn what caused burned and make the required repair and eliminate a possible future repair possibly under warranty. With electronic they are usually sealed making it hard to see what inside failed. Making it hard to learn the difference between poor manufacturing and other problems with the vehicle that caused the failure. I will always recommend to the novice or newbie to the old car hobby or car repair in general that they keep the mechanical parts and learn how to spot worn vs burned and what can cause each part to burn. That was how I was taught at 14, by my dad and grandad, while learning to rebuild starters and generators in the family business. It wasn't until I had a couple of years under my belt that they gave me an alternator, with its electronics, to rebuild.
  13. To get this straight you turn on the ignition switch and the lights turn on. You turn on the headlight switch and your fuel pump turns on. And all you did between this happening and everything working correctly was clean the headlight reflectors nothing else? Those switches when wired correctly have nothing in common. I would check to see how the wires were run out from their respective switch. If they are in the same protective loom or tape they could be melted together. This could also explain your lighting issue if it was not solved by cleaning the reflector.
  14. Mick 33362 is d-12-cx in Standard, ohio,sterling and pyramid brands. d87 in gilfillan 32247 is d-12-c in Standard,ohio,sterling and pyramid brands. d85 in Gilfillan. I have a set. You can call me if you are interested 1-440-439-1100 Jeff
  15. The way most cars are wired the front turn and indicators use the same circuit. The rears to keep from back feeding the fronts and causing the fronts to also light with the brake pedal pressed are run separately. Since the brake lights and turn lights are the same bulb.I would suspect the turn signal switch. I would disconnect the wires from the switch and send power to each bulb from that point. If they are bright then you have a bad switch. If they are dim I would trace the wires back.
  16. Studebaker used the same Bendix part #R11X from 1920 to 1929 regardless of using a Wagner or a Remy starter. Starting in 1930 they used R11XV which used a larger counterweight for better cold weather starting.
  17. Like Jack said power your horns to see if they are good. Your horn relay should have 3 horn connections. 1 constant power, 1 to the horns and 1 from the horn button. Once you have the relay wired correctly to the horns. You will have 1 wire going up the column to the horn contact inside the steering wheel. If you ground that wire your horns will work. Is your steering wheel the original or has it been changed to an aftermarket? I see so many aftermarket, especially Grant brand, steering wheels where the horns do not work and they end up with a toggle like you have. With original steering wheels I find the contacts rusted and you do not get a good ground. With aftermarket steering wheels I find the horn contacts are not assembled correctly.
  18. The most popular sizes found at auto parts stores are .157" or .195" with a .220 measurement most likely Rhode Island Wiring, YNZ yesterday or Narragansett Reproductions. Since they specialize in reproducing wiring harnesses.
  19. If you are not using a trailer with electric brakes or an electric winch then I would just change the bulbs as the others have said. Doing a 12v conversion on your vehicle will take more time and cost a more in parts than say a Ford or Chevy of the same vintage. The main reason being is you have 2 unique items on your Plymouth that there are no exact 12v replacements for. Headlight bulbs and ignition coil.
  20. My Standard Auto Electricians book says Autolite #CB-4014 for the cutout. I don't have one. There is a guy selling some on ebay item #253169304091.
  21. What happened before this? Was the car in storage for the winter? Had you been making repairs to another problem? How long since it last started correctly? Did you just go to the store one day and no start since? Put a voltmeter on the battery and try to start the car. Watch the voltmeter what does the voltage drop to? If it crashes you either have a locked up motor or a battery that will not handle the load. If it does not drop at all you most likely have a cable problem.
  22. Delco Remy part #820052. I have many of these NOS.
  23. I have rebuilt quite a few of these over the years what you have nothing more than a modified Delco Remy starter with a solenoid mounted to it. Similar to what your car uses. Just because a small amout of smoke has come out does not mean it is bad. You could still have another problem. Disconnect the copper strap from the solenoid to the motor post. Ground the case, put power to the stud and see what happens. If you still get little to no movement or smoke then yes you have a bad motor. Why did it go bad while just sitting? Cant entirely answer that until you open it and see what is wrong.
  24. I think both fuses and fusibles can be used and will do their job. I pointed out the 2 vehicles in the last post to show that you can make all the safety precautions you want sometimes they do not always protect the way we want them to protect. With the 71 Dodge we replaced the fusible with a fuse only because we were not sure what caused the fusible to burn and do to its close location to the plastic bulkhead connector we did not want to have to replace that a second time if we did not find the cause of the failure. It was good that we did it the way we did because it took a couple of fuses blowing before we found the faulty regulator. I generally do not recommend using universal wiring kits for the novice, I know they are usually less money, but you spend more labor time making it fit. They also require changing to negative ground, getting rid of the ammeter in favor of a voltmeter, glass fuse for blade and other items. They become cookie cutter. These cars and electrical items worked well for years and now our suppliers to make their life easier are telling us we need to change things do to safety or poor quality. It is the same situation when mechanics or friends tell people they must convert from 6v to 12v to get their vehicles electrical system to work properly. Just because they do not know how to fix these older systems does not mean there aren't people out here that can. Just because the box auto parts store cant afford to stock the correct part does not mean that you should have to change. Find a source that does have the correct part.