ryan95

Bloo, the product from RI Wire, are you referring to the asphalt covered cloth wire loom? I haven't used the stuff before, but that was one of my ideas. I figured it was too rigid, but maybe with some heat it becomes malleable.

I am thinking ahead about how I will do the wiring for the 23 Moon, and am trying to figure out what to do about insulating the terminals. I plan on using cloth covered wire and open barrel crimp terminals like the original wiring was. Looking at how others have done the terminals for restorations, I notice most have been done with heat shrink tubing on the terminals. What was the original way to do it for prewar cars with cloth wiring? Heat shrink tubing is wonderful stuff and looks very clean, but I really doubt it was around 100 years ago. Either there was no insulation or another method was used. I'll attach a picture for reference.

Unless you get lucky and find another in better shape, which usually doesn't happen with pot metal parts, my bet is that you will have to figure out how to make another one or come up with an alternative solution, as was mentioned above. If you find a willing machinist, I would imagine it could be made out of aluminum.

The original distributors used on the 1923 Moon 6-40 engine were pot metal Delco units. Because of this, most all, or maybe even all of those units on the surviving cars have been replaced with different model distributors. The car I am working on had a later Delco Remy 640C distributor put on it at some point as a solution. I am trying to decide on keeping it or switching to another distributor such as a 1930s GM type, or other model with a good enough following to find parts easily. Whichever way, I would like to figure out what the 640C unit came from so that I can either find parts for it or sell it to someone who needs this model. Do any of you have any old Delco Remy literature or ideas to figure this out? As for the picture, I believe it is setup for the most part as it would have originally been other than the advance lever and possibly the drive gear, which were necessary to fit the Moon's engine.

You can do it! Two years ago I started rebuilding a touring body. All but some of the door parts are being replaced. If all goes well, I hope to have it done this month. I say this to cheer you on. Also, look up Rob Teale. He is a restorer from your part of the world and does what he can to teach others about the craft. He should be able to help you on details specific for Australian cars.

I ran into a similar problem with the Moon two years ago. I pried, tapped, and wiggled and had no luck. I think I ended up unbolting the clutch through the access hole to get them to separate. Once separated, it should be easier to get the rest apart.

Can you show us where the hole is and what's in the way? It would help with coming up with the best plan for you.

I have tried the loctite kit and did not care for it. I always look for a Metal on metal solution when possible.

I did some similar shackle bolt washers a couple years ago. I use sendcutsend.com for my cutting. We needed two sizes. They have a $29 minimum order per material, but free shipping too. Usually orders from them arrive at my door same week.

As already said, Moon bragged about being an assembled car. I saved this article a while back.

The 3 tooth per inch hook blade is my favorite. The narrowest it comes is 1/2 inch, so that's what I get. That helps it turn tighter.

I have a friend who bought a newer Impala. Since I am handy, he asked if I could do some "mods" to his car. I said no Chinese junk and I'll only do it if it's a GM aftermarket product. Aftermarket junk peddled on unsuspecting buyers drives me crazy. It turned out that Chevy had a website where he could put his model in and see what they had. He picked the billet grill. It was actually aluminum to my surprise. If I remember right, we were supplied with screws and spring loaded drywall anchors, and had to drill holes for them to pop through. I was not impressed. It was a cheap, flashy, afterthought of a product.

I don't have experience them yet, but for decals look into having some rub on transfers made. They look popular with model makers and have very good detail. I was looking for a solution for reproducing the artwork on a gauge face and these look like a good, affordable solution for my situation. You need to have the image in a vector file format. Basically that means the image is made mathematically, not with pixels. I'm going to try using inkscape, a free program, to create it. For the decal service, customrubontransfers.com is the most affordable place I have found. White decals start at $25.

That's what I've heard, but don't remember even thinking about it when I had the opportunity to drive a 22 6-40 a year ago. I wouldn't let it keep you from looking at one. The bigger problem is that Moon roadsters don't come up for sale often. Last year a touring converted to a roadster was sold. Other than that I think there is a Windsor cabriolet for sale within the club.

Oh boy, I just noticed

As a small engine mechanic, I see lots of ethanol problems. The water/alcohol mix that settles below the gasoline usually just stops the engine from running until cleaned out. It's almost always at the lowest part of the fuel system, usually the carburetor bowl, but also sometimes at the bottom of the fuel tank. I usually don't see the rubber lines break down, but it does happen. If it sits long enough in a carburetor bowl or steel tank, it will eat pinholes through the bottom. How does this apply to antique autos? Is it safe to assume that most factory fuel lines are hard lines? Those shouldn't be a problem very often. My main concern would be letting the corrosive mix spend time in an obsolete carburetor, vacuum tank, or fuel tank. Often these parts are rare or would cost hundreds to thousands to recast or have a craftsman make new. Also, there is no mechanic in a bottle that works for ethanol problems. They are preventative at best. I use Stabil Marine when I have to store ethanol fuel or winterize an engine. So far I've done 100 plus boat winterizations without a problem in the spring.

Looks like a Ruxton. 1 of the 19 survivors right?

Overall, as good or better than factory should be attainable. Without original patterns measurements, drawings and fixtures, I think that all we can do is get pretty close to original and call it good enough as far as the correct shape goes. In other aspects I think we can make up for it with better hardware, such as zinc coated steel wood screws, better glue, and often more effort spent to keep rot or wear areas from failing again in the next hundred years. In most situations I think that updates are good as long as they are used sparingly, are not obvious, and done with the intention of making those parts last longer.

One of the best search tricks I learned was to put quotes around any specific phrase you want to use for your search. It works on most search engines.

Search Tempest is handy at times. It searches various websites and helps get around Craigslist's inability to let you search outside your area. Auto Tempest is good too for looking for vehicles.

The '23 Moon we are restoring is 99 years old this year. The goal has been to finish it in 2023 for it's hundredth year. If I can get the metal on this winter and paint it this summer, then we should be on track. It will be close.

A quick Google search brought this up. Looks like the Model T guys have discussed it. It doesn't sound like there are any actual fibers in it. If you can find a no 3 grease, that's probably plenty good. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/708324/712735.html?1484323687

Thank you for sharing this. I am nearing completion of remaking nearly every wood piece for a touring car. When I spend an hour or more to make each piece, sometimes I'll try to imagine all of the jigs and fixtures that would have originally been used to make that part in seconds and more precisely.

As long as it can be made from flat parts, I use sendcutsend.com. You still need to do the CAD work yourself, but it's as simple as uploading your part, picking a material, and giving them some money. Parts show up nicely packaged in a few days. I look forward to the day that the same can be done affordably with CNC machining.

Either a 6 volt coil with an internal resistor, or a 6 volt coil with an external resister is what the 6v systems I have worked on required. I think that's pretty standard.