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Everything posted by ryan95

  1. I am not sure if the Lincoln bolts are the same, but here are some measurements of the Moon bolts. The hex in our case was 3/4 and the head was 1/2 inch tall. The wheels are hub centered, so there is no taper on the bolts, just a step so that the corners of the hex don't dig into the ring underneath. Other than looks, the most important thing would be that they do not have a tapered seat. I have looked long and hard for any other lug bolt option. All that I could find were lug bolts with tapered seats. If you can't find a close up picture of the original Lincoln ones, maybe try getting some that do have the taper and having machinist remove the taper on a lathe.
  2. Moon was an assembled car and used Disteel brand wheels. The Moon wheels are very similar and have similar rings, but as far as I know, Moon never used a 6 lug hub. Maybe search for what other cars used Disteel wheels and you will find your answer. The Moon lug bolts on the car I am restoring used a 9/16-18 thread. Here are the reproduction bolts we just had made based on measurements from the originals. It was a costly process.
  3. Thanks for all of the support guys. As for how I stay organized, many of the parts that need worked on eventually are in the owner's garage, the countless wood shavings and sawdust stay in the woodshop, and if you count only see the other side of the garage you would see a number of Moon parts and other projects. Also, even though I sacrificed my garage bay for restoration parts storage, my wife gets the middle bay. She has let me borrow her spot time to time though when the work overflows. As for the sheet metal, I have no idea how I would make all of the new wood fit if we were reusing all of it. Being off by a small amount means that a panel won't work as it is. Much of our metal has enough rust that I will be making new panels. Other ones will need some adjustments made. Thankfully the hood and fenders are in great shape. Everything else needs figured out, but they are flat panels or are close to it. This winter I hope to put my learning to the test and try my hand at panel beating.
  4. It has been a while since I gave an update on the Moon. Since posting last time, the cowl section has been rebuilt and the mid section pillars and top rails have been made and fit to the body. We now have a complete body line the whole way around the car, which I thought was a big milestone since it finally resembles a car. Getting all of the doors to fit right and line up was a major job of many hours. I am very thankful for the suggestion to do the doors with the body mounted to the frame to maintain proper alignment. For the most part, all that is left with the woodwork is to build the front seat, make a few more floor boards, and build the storage compartment that goes on the floor behind the front seat backrest. The door wood is in great shape, so we will reuse it. Everything else wood related left to be made, with exception of the top bows, are various tack strips and filler pieces. Currently we are having some of the parts nickel plated by Paul's Chrome, and are having the disc wheels straightened by my local Amish machinist. The machinist just finished the first wheel yesterday with great success.
  5. I am not familiar with Oakland, but on the Moon I am restoring, which was made in the same period, all of the seals around shafts were made of leather and the gaskets were cork. All of the leather seals were reusable for me. The only seals I upgraded were the inner wheel bearing seals, where I used modern lip style seals to do a better job of separating the bearing grease from the gear lube. The major hurdle I ran into was that the axle tubes were not precision machined to be round to accept this style seal. I ground it the close I could to round and used some RTV on it when I pressed it in to fill the gaps. I wouldn't get too carried away with making all of the seals perfect. To my understanding, a major factor that keeps the grease and oil in the axle is the high viscosity. Bearing grease won't leak for the most part, and the diff in my situation calls for 400w oil. Someone else here will have more knowledge than me, but hopefully this gets you started. Do you have any pictures of this Oakland that you can post?
  6. So what is damaged on the block? Replacement might be ideal, but maybe it can be fixed if you can't find another.
  7. Is this still available? Another guy in the Moon club needs this specific carburetor model.
  8. It might be worth treating the wood somehow to kill the bugs. I haven't had to worry about it on my project since it is all new wood other than a few pieces. I did read somewhere that bugs don't like wood that has a finish on it.
  9. On the 1923 Moon I am restoring, we are using the original wood species, White Oak and Ash. Both have similar qualities. The main differences are that White Oak is more waterproof due to little walls inside the pores, but it splits easier than Ash. Make sure you learn the difference between Red and White Oak. Red should not be used since it is not waterproof. Ash is easier to work, accepts nails better, and is more flexible, but will rot quicker. The general rule that I have found on the Moon is that any wood exposed to the elements should be White Oak, such as the sills, floorboards, and firewall. Everything else on this car, and I think for most cars of the period, is Ash. My recommendation is to keep the wood the original species if you can. Restored cars are generally well taken care of, and If it those woods can last 100 years, there is no reason to pay more for something special. From my research, nothing was used to preserve the wood from the factory other than black paint on the visible parts. This would have been linseed oil based most likely. Everything else would have been bare. For restoration and preservation, I know that many others use epoxy, but epoxy doesn't breathe, as was mentioned. It can keep water out, but when it fails, it will hold moisture in. I have opted for the time tested ship builder's method of mixing up "ship soup." It is equal parts linseed oil, pine tar, and turpentine. Pine tar is a traditional wood preservative and insect repellant, linseed oil dries and repels moisture, and turpentine helps it penetrate. It breathes, is much better than being bare like original, and if it is good enough for ships, it is good for a car. It also smells wonderful, not that that matters. I only use the best linseed oil and pine tar. I use Ottoson brand cold pressed boiled linseed oil from solventfreepaint.com. It is expensive, but superior to the hardware store products. For the tar, I use Auson brand kiln burned pine tar, which you can get through Amazon. It is the purest pine tar that you can buy. My method may be unconventional, but I hope my reasoning justifies it.
  10. Everything is fixable. Body panels can be hand made, unobtainable parts can be newly machined or cast, and so on. Determining if it is only good for parts or worthy of restoring depends on what value you put on the car. I say you, not the market, because it is your decision what will happen to it. If you inherit your grandfather's first car, and it is entirely rusted out, leaving only the running rear and a few other parts that can be reused, and it is only worth $15,000 to the market when restored, it still may be worth it to you to do a $40,000 restoration so that you can preserve and enjoy a family heirloom. If anyone ever sells it, they will most likely lose money, but that is a possibility that you have to accept if the car is dear to you. On the other hand, if it matters to you that there is no hope of ever breaking even with it, and no one else wants it for their own restoration project, part it out. Parting out one car may help multiple others complete their unfinished projects. Determining if your car is a parts car, driver, or a restoration candidate is up to you.
  11. Completely understandable. There are tools that get the job done and tools that are a joy to use. My favorite tools are usually at least 50 years old, USA made, and feel like they will last for many generations.
  12. Or you could buy this sanding bow on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Rockler-SANDING-BOW/dp/B07WMXN3LX/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=sanding+bow+tool&qid=1607948727&s=hi&sr=1-2
  13. It looks simple enough to make if you're desperate for one. One of the best attitudes that I have gained from this hobby is "if you can't buy it, make it."
  14. Moon didn't start using front brakes until 24 when they went to four wheel hydraulic brakes. I don't know if it was optional or standard on all cars that year. This car is a 23 and has mechanical, rear only brakes. It was much harder than I expected to get it all adjusted right. This was my first mechanical brake job. I'm looking forward to seeing how well it will stop compared to another Moon I was allowed to drive by a fellow club member.
  15. That is a great picture! You wouldn't happen to have any others would you? Also, do you know much history of the car or where it ended up?
  16. Thanks guys, The wheels are mounted correctly. There is a big snap ring that goes on the inside for the inner bead. It allowed for easier mounting of tires. I have all of the rings on a shelf for now.
  17. Hi everyone, here's an update on the Moon restoration. Since springtime I have sandblasted, painted, and rebuilt the whole running gear minus the engine, transmission, driveshaft, and steering Box. I had issues with the primer and paint when doing the frame, so that needs redone in the spring. Since winter is here, I have the frame bolted to the springs just for mocking up the body. I hope to resume the woodworking in a couple weeks. The honeycomb radiator was also gone through, soldered and painted by Ellet Radiator in Akron Ohio. Various other small parts have been found or made by others also.
  18. Thanks for the advice on the carrier preload. It seems like most rear ends use preload to some extent. I also just found in my Dyke's repair manual that they recommend to "remove all play while allowing the carrier to still spin freely." I shot for a happy medium of tightening it one notch past zero play.
  19. Thanks Scott! Can I also ask how you set your carrier bearings? This one also uses adjusters with notches for setting backlash and the preload/endplay of the carrier bearings. I set the left one where I liked it for backlash, brought the right one in until there was zero side to side play, backed the right side off one notch, and tapped the carrier over to seat the bearing against the adjuster before tightening the caps. I'm not sure what is typical for how much play is needed for the carrier bearings.
  20. Hi everyone, I am currently trying to get the ring and pinion set up correctly on the 1923 Moon I am restoring. Anyone with experience with setting up an axle should be able to help. Currently the gear contact pattern is on the toe end of the drive side and the heel end of the coast side of the ring gear. I read that I needed to bring the pinion closer to bring both patterns closer to the center. This started to bring the patterns closer until I ran into a problem with binding. I cant seem to get more than half of the football shaped pattern to appear before I start to have issues. These are the original gears and are worn, but my hope is that they are not too worn. I have a heard that with a used set of gears that the pattern will never be perfect. If that is true, how far from perfect can these gears be before I have issues? This is my first time doing this, so I want to get it as acceptable as possible. What is your advice? I appreciate and wisdom that is passed down to me.
  21. Hi LCK, The woman on the Moon is actress Clara Bow. Realistically it isn't a good idea to do what she is doing. It's a real but staged picture.
  22. These two cars are from Kennywood's Turnpike ride. They are not mine, but I am the mechanic that keeps up on them for the owner. Both have Kohler engines. The Turnpike was one of my favorite rides as a kid. It has since been replaced with a coaster.
  23. Looks like a chair leg tenon cutter.
  24. Yankee made push drills too. Probably the most important difference, which I forgot to mention, is that the shanks of the bits are different. The shank of a push drill bit is about half the size. There are adapters though. Look at the picture I found on Google. Early push drills used another type of bit altogether. I think they used a three or four jaw chuck.
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