ryan95

Keep all of the parts you removed with the points in case you decide to go back. Points are reliable, fixable, and parts are plentiful. I work on boats during the warmer months. Of the two boats that I work on with Pertronix units, both boats have had a Pertronix unit fail, requiring ordering another and waiting for it to arrive. The only instance I would use a pertronix is if I had a worn distributor bushing and was too lazy to fix it.

If I am wrong, I hope someone corrects me. I think that the dwell angle spec should be about the same for any six cylinder engine that uses a typical coil and distributor setup. Dwell is just how long the points stay closed, which it's how the ignition coil builds enough of a charge for good spark. This means that if the point gap is too wide, the dwell time won't be enough. The specified point gap is usually what gets the dwell about right, but setting the point gap based on the dwell is probably better if you have a meter and know what to shoot for. Make sure to set the timing after getting all of that correct since changing the point gap doesn't just change how wide they open, but also when the points open.

Looks like they did what they had to do to get it going or did all they knew how to do. You did a nice job on yours. I like that the later style Buick distributors look very similar to the early ones with the cap locating pins that stick out to the side.

In general, how has most of the engine hardware felt as it came apart? That should be a good predictor of how your head nuts and studs will go. On many of the old machines that I take apart the hardware gently loosens and then seems to glide. It's the feeling that most hardware has that's been around lots of oil in its life. If things have felt crusty, rusty, or popped right before they started turning, then I might take more caution. On any that are stuck, I would use an oxy fuel torch to warm before turning them. In my experience penetrating oils don't loosen stuck hardware, they help tight hardware come apart if it's loose enough to work it back and forth. Is the head held on with nuts on studs? That would also be an advantage since if any nuts are stuck, more than likely the whole stud will back out. I am doubtful that you will have too much trouble getting it apart. Just don't force anything too much.

Aside from more door work, I did some work on the distributor today. Originally the car had a pot metal Delco unit, but very few have survived. The solution we chose was to use a late 20's Delco Remy unit. They are visually very similar other than a few details. The original Delco distributors had no outside machine work since the ears that hold the clips were part of the casting. They also used only brown bakelite caps. To imitate this I sanded the machining marks off of the body and found an early style bakelite cap. Most of the Delco Remy ones are black plastic. I also removed the tag and will relocate it to the inside. To anyone who doesn't know, Delco and Remy were two different companies until they merged sometime around 1926. That is why I wanted to hide the tag. The original one would have just said Delco. Once it is painted, it should look close to original other than not having the cast clip ears.

I bought a 6x6x1 jewelers rubber block off eBay or Amazon. It wasn't too expensive and feels like a good density in my opinion. I made them oversized so that I could remove material for adjustments. I'm glad to share any details.

I have a little bit to do an update on. I have had a high failure to success ratio with the recent projects. The main project right now is getting the doors to all work and close correctly. The tasks for that include removing rust from door hardware, repairing the hardware, making rubber bumpers, making the wood strips that go in the jambs for mounting the latch parts and bumpers, and assembling it all. It takes some time and precision to get the parts all screwed in correctly so that it works how it should. Once a wood screw goes in, you're committed to it being there. Now both driver side doors are functioning well. Some of the pictures are sideways. I will try to fix them from my computer. Here are the bumpers I made with the bandsaw. These are the metal strips that get attached to the door frame for the skin to get crimped to. They are cleaned up and oiled. Here is the driver door jamb showing all of the parts that needed mounted. This angle shows looking up the side of the car. The doors stick proud of the body and the skins overlap the body rather than having them butted up to each other flush like newer cars. I set the doors so that they stick out 3/16. This is a separate little project I have been working on. Today I cut a new piece of glass for the face since the old one was scratched up all over. I looked into and contacted many glass companies, but there were reasons why all of them couldn't do it or it was going to cost way too much. I purchased a sheet of 5/32 low iron glass, which is hard to find, I bought some glass cutting and drilling supplies off Amazon, and today with my limited skills I cut, drilled, and sanded it to the right shape. Thankfully none of the edges are visible when it is all together.

What do you do about the zinc plating that is found on most modern nails? Do you leave it, strip it, or do you find nails that aren't plated? I think they should all end up with primer and paint covering them, but it's one other thought I have had.

Thanks Ron. That's exactly what I was looking for.

Ron, your work has been an inspiration to me with my restoration. I have been quietly following along on your project until now. Since you mentioned nails, can I ask what you're using for body nails? I am about to start adding sheet metal to the Moon body. I bought some body nails from Restoration Supply a while back, but I think they are too thick and will split the wood. I also have some thinner 16ga wire nails that I am thinking of using. It must sounds like a silly thing for me to be concerned with, but pounding in a thousand little nails is a commitment.

Mike, it's all ash other than the sills, floorboards, and firewall, which are white oak. The original pieces where I used the ash look to be maple based on the grain.

About a year ago I started a post in the general discussion on the '23 Moon 6-40 I am restoring for a neighbor. It looks like this is the better place to post, so I'll start over again here. I also want to try and give more updates, even on the small projects. I am nearing the completion of the woodwork and will be starting on sheet metal soon. All of the wood pieces you are seeing, other than some of the better door pieces, I made over the past two years based on the original pieces that had various problems such as rot, bug damage, and wear.

I hope someone here can help you out with some options. If you aren't already, get involved in a group that focuses on early Chevys and pick those guys' brains. From what I remember, I think in '24 or '25 Chevy switched to Dupont Duco lacquers. Up to that point vanish paints were the common practice. Also, there aren't many paint formulas recorded for pre 1930 vehicles, and old formulas don't translate well either, so you'll probably have to find a paint that looks right based on the information you can find. Research wise, I think your best bet is going to be to track down some original sales brochures to get some clues or color names. From there you can try to determine what is acceptable. I am not a paint or Chevy expert, but I hope this is helpful.

I'm not familiar with your engine, but the Continental engine I'm working on let's you pull it's whole oil indicator assembly out with two bolts. I would imagine that other engines are similar.

Pictures one and three are the early style Delco switch. Even though they look similar, parts are not interchangeable with the later style, such as in picture 2. The simple way to tell is if there is glass on the front or not. I learned this the hard way after buying an early style one for parts.

Some pictures of yours would help. All of the round ones with the glass face look to use the same basic parts. I haven't looked at an oval style one in person yet, but they look like they might be the same other than the face. Also, if they are pot metal levers, which I suspect they are, they should both be replaced. When the shaft section of the levers swell, it cracks the main switch body and can make the whole thing useless other than for parts to put together a new switch. Yes, you will hear that there are reproduction aluminum bodies, but they don't fit together as nice as the originals do. When you have it apart, you should inspect very closely for cracks where the knobs were. The switch body I'm using had cracks even with the handles working well. My solution was to make a dam with masking tape and use JB weld on the inside to reinforce the cracked area. My point is, to save what's original, new levers would be a good idea.

After trying them out, I have a little more confidence in them. They are more durable feeling than I expected. I also didn't like the placement of the first one so I tried removing it with wax and grease remover. To my surprise it dissolved like it was actually printed on the piece. I was expecting it to lift off like a bunch of little stickers. I need to start sharing more of the project on here.

I made the design with Inkscape and sent the file to customrubontransfers.com. Anything you can draw up, they can print. Here are some more pictures. You cut out and tape the decal in position and then burnish it on.

That's about how I feel about them. In my case they will be behind glass. If they were exposed, I have heard to clear coat them if you can.

I think most original white lettering like that is screen printed on. It doesn't look like a terribly difficult process. I am working on an ignition switch faceplate that was originally screen. Since I'm a novice and the surface isn't flat, I decided to try a dry transfer/ rub down decal. The print is all that transfers from the sheet to the part, so there is no clear film necessary to hold it all together. These just came in the mail yesterday. I hope they work as good as they look.

I agree on good crimps being necessary and having the correct tool for the style terminal being used. Wiring became so much easier when I learned how to do it right. When I see some of my early crimps I cringe.

Hook, that looks like it's probably going to be the best option unless I hear of something better. I cannot find it on their website, but I'll call when I'm about to order supplies. They have plenty of other things I'm looking for. Here are two styles that I found on the original wiring so far. The first is from the ignition switch. It looks textured. The second is the distributor wire. The insulation on it looks like a smooth blob. The next time I go to the other garage where the rest of the parts are I will see if there are any other clues. Most of the terminals have no insulation, so those ones were either bare originally or the insulation decayed and fell off.

I'd like to see if I can dig up some period pictures or a description of what it actually was. I also have heard of the linen wrapped terminals, but have yet to see an example. I'll give updates as I make progress.

That's another interesting option. I'm going to take another look at the original wiring tomorrow and see if I can find any traces of vulcanized rubber. If that is what was used, I would like to try and find what looks closest to original.

Thanks for the idea. That looks reasonably accurate since vulcanizing would be difficult I imagine. Does anyone have more to say on the original process or processes of the time? Any other solutions?