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About ryan95

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  1. Thank you. It does answer my question.
  2. I have a question. Is there a way to search specific sections of the forum? The example that made me wonder this, but it applies to any section of interest, is to search only the "parts for sale" section. The only way that I know how to search the forum is by the search bar, but it seems to only work by searching the entire forum across all sections.
  3. Thanks Ralph. I will use your recommendations when the new ones are designed.
  4. Thank you for all of the ideas. The Packard ones are interesting, but they are 5/8 instead of 9/16. Ralph, I will save your information Incase things fall through with Michael Bernard. He is giving me a quote tomorrow. It looks like you do some nice work. Michael is a half hour drive from me though, which is convenient. Do you do any casting by chance or have other useful restoration skills?
  5. Wow! They are only a half hour from me. Thank you for the great lead!
  6. This is all good to consider. Thank you. It sounds like all the more reason to either find originals or have a custom fastener manufacturer make them if I have to.
  7. I agree on hardened of some sort and that it isn't something to guess on. I'll look into Hemmings to see if anything looks promising. My guess on why they are so hard to find is that they just look like an odd shaped bolt without the typical taper on them. Like many vintage parts, once the application is lost, it is useless, not easy to sell, and becomes junked or stored with other random unknown items.
  8. The quote from my machine shop was for them to turn it on a lathe from hex stock. I think their quote is reasonable even if it is more than I will pay. There has to be someone out there on the internet that makes custom fasteners at a lower cost by by using CNC or some other more efficient process. I just haven't found them yet.
  9. Thanks Jan, I will consider those. We can talk about them over the phone sometime. Rusty, That sounds like a good option if I can find some the right size. Can you think of any specific applications to look into?
  10. Lump, who did you have fabricate your tank? I travel to the Wooster Ohio area regularly and have a tank for a 23 Moon that either needs repaired or redone. Stainless steel sounds like a great option to me. How pleased are you with how it came out?
  11. I am posting this here to try and gain some leads and knowledge from all of you forum members. One of the more difficult parts left to source for the 1923 Moon 6-40 that I am restoring are the wheel lug bolts. The situation is that there are supposed to be 23 total lug bolts on the car, 5 per tire and 3 for the spare. I have 22 currently. Of those 22, some of them have worn or stripped threads. The picture is of one of the better ones. For safety, I at least need to replace the worn out ones. For show purposes, I need to come up with enough to make a complete set. Ideally, I would like to find a way to get a whole set of 23 made for a reasonable price. Old black and white pictures hint that they were nickel plated, and the pits and nicks would show through the plating for sure. What makes these difficult to locate are the flat instead of tapered seat, since they are hub centered rims instead of lug centered. They are more similar to a typical hex head bolt than they are to a traditional lug bolt. The big difference is the length of the head. My local machine shop told me they can make them for 40 a piece, but that is a little steep for me unless it is the only option. Specs are the following, 9/16-18 threads, a little over an inch of threads, flat seat, 3/4" hex head, 1/2" head length. I can take other measurements if needed. My big question is do any of you know of any reasonable custom bolt manufacturers, or know of another vehicle that used similar bolts, or have any other ideas? Moon was an assembled car, so I don't doubt that other 1920's cars with early disc wheels used similar or the same bolts. I also don't doubt that I am the first antique car restorer who needed to replace 100 year old lug bolts. What are my options?
  12. I usually don't get excited over being wrong, but I spent some time tonight looking very closely over the car and found what I believe to be original paint! W_Higgins, you were right. Thank you for making me want to give it another look. What I noticed tonight is that there seems to be three or four variations of reddish coatings on the car. The first and least important, a very bright red, which is sloppily brush painted on most of the wood over the original black. Second, the red primer that is on a lot of the sheet metal of the car. Oddly it is mostly on the driver's side. Third, the exciting one, I rubbed and spit shined a few areas that I suspected might have something original on them. There was one door jamb and also a spot on the right rear quarter panel that was not as affected from the stripper. The pictures are all of this paint. It looks to be brush painted from the lack of over spray and how it lays. It is glossy and almost looks to have some depth in person. It is also looks how I assume 96 year old maroon paint would look like after it fades. Does anyone in this forum know how to test the composition of this paint? The original should be a varnish, and not lacquer, enamel, or urethane. Is this something that I can test for myself? Does anyone know of a method, chemically, microscopically, or sent out to someone? Thanks in advance. I know this seems overkill for an originally mid-priced car, but it is a quest that I enjoy and I believe the final result will be well worth it.
  13. I am seeing that too. Make sure those clips are seated all the way. I would hate to see someone get hurt and or the car.
  14. Here are a few of the ads I have gathered that mention details about the upholstery. The last one with blue ink is for a 1922 6-48 or 6-58, but it mentions the "hand crushed" detail that I brought up earlier. Black leather may have been used in '23, but it only appears in my 1922 articles and brochures. all 1923 articles and brochures that I have collected mention tan leather. Possibly a 1923 could have been ordered with black, or maybe some cars were upholstered in what was left over from the previous year.
  15. Hi Jan, check out this discussion if you haven't already seen it. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/304534-interior-upholstery-restoration-referals/ The Amish guy mentioned does good work from what I have read around the internet, and he is reasonably close to you. I plan on looking into him when it is time to do the interior of Bob's Moon. About the difference in leather, today's leather is all chrome tanned instead of vegetable tanned, like would have been original. I hope to find something correct, but it will depend on what is available, and how much it costs. By the way, what makes you want to choose black leather? All but one of the original 6-40 advertisements I have found that discuss interior suggest tan leather. The one that mentioned black leather was a 1922. Was your interior black? All of the other ads say genuine, tan Spanish leather, some even including that it was hand crushed. I do not know what Spanish leather is specifically, whether it is literally leather from Spain or a style of leather. I also do not know what hand crushed refers to yet.