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  1. So what is damaged on the block? Replacement might be ideal, but maybe it can be fixed if you can't find another.
  2. Is this still available? Another guy in the Moon club needs this specific carburetor model.
  3. It might be worth treating the wood somehow to kill the bugs. I haven't had to worry about it on my project since it is all new wood other than a few pieces. I did read somewhere that bugs don't like wood that has a finish on it.
  4. On the 1923 Moon I am restoring, we are using the original wood species, White Oak and Ash. Both have similar qualities. The main differences are that White Oak is more waterproof due to little walls inside the pores, but it splits easier than Ash. Make sure you learn the difference between Red and White Oak. Red should not be used since it is not waterproof. Ash is easier to work, accepts nails better, and is more flexible, but will rot quicker. The general rule that I have found on the Moon is that any wood exposed to the elements should be White Oak, such as the sills, floorboards, and fir
  5. Everything is fixable. Body panels can be hand made, unobtainable parts can be newly machined or cast, and so on. Determining if it is only good for parts or worthy of restoring depends on what value you put on the car. I say you, not the market, because it is your decision what will happen to it. If you inherit your grandfather's first car, and it is entirely rusted out, leaving only the running rear and a few other parts that can be reused, and it is only worth $15,000 to the market when restored, it still may be worth it to you to do a $40,000 restoration so that you can preserve and enjoy
  6. Completely understandable. There are tools that get the job done and tools that are a joy to use. My favorite tools are usually at least 50 years old, USA made, and feel like they will last for many generations.
  7. Or you could buy this sanding bow on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Rockler-SANDING-BOW/dp/B07WMXN3LX/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=sanding+bow+tool&qid=1607948727&s=hi&sr=1-2
  8. It looks simple enough to make if you're desperate for one. One of the best attitudes that I have gained from this hobby is "if you can't buy it, make it."
  9. Moon didn't start using front brakes until 24 when they went to four wheel hydraulic brakes. I don't know if it was optional or standard on all cars that year. This car is a 23 and has mechanical, rear only brakes. It was much harder than I expected to get it all adjusted right. This was my first mechanical brake job. I'm looking forward to seeing how well it will stop compared to another Moon I was allowed to drive by a fellow club member.
  10. That is a great picture! You wouldn't happen to have any others would you? Also, do you know much history of the car or where it ended up?
  11. Thanks guys, The wheels are mounted correctly. There is a big snap ring that goes on the inside for the inner bead. It allowed for easier mounting of tires. I have all of the rings on a shelf for now.
  12. Hi everyone, here's an update on the Moon restoration. Since springtime I have sandblasted, painted, and rebuilt the whole running gear minus the engine, transmission, driveshaft, and steering Box. I had issues with the primer and paint when doing the frame, so that needs redone in the spring. Since winter is here, I have the frame bolted to the springs just for mocking up the body. I hope to resume the woodworking in a couple weeks. The honeycomb radiator was also gone through, soldered and painted by Ellet Radiator in Akron Ohio. Various other small parts have been found or made by others al
  13. Thanks for the advice on the carrier preload. It seems like most rear ends use preload to some extent. I also just found in my Dyke's repair manual that they recommend to "remove all play while allowing the carrier to still spin freely." I shot for a happy medium of tightening it one notch past zero play.
  14. Thanks Scott! Can I also ask how you set your carrier bearings? This one also uses adjusters with notches for setting backlash and the preload/endplay of the carrier bearings. I set the left one where I liked it for backlash, brought the right one in until there was zero side to side play, backed the right side off one notch, and tapped the carrier over to seat the bearing against the adjuster before tightening the caps. I'm not sure what is typical for how much play is needed for the carrier bearings.
  15. Hi everyone, I am currently trying to get the ring and pinion set up correctly on the 1923 Moon I am restoring. Anyone with experience with setting up an axle should be able to help. Currently the gear contact pattern is on the toe end of the drive side and the heel end of the coast side of the ring gear. I read that I needed to bring the pinion closer to bring both patterns closer to the center. This started to bring the patterns closer until I ran into a problem with binding. I cant seem to get more than half of the football shaped pattern to appear before I start to have issues. These
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