ryan95

The goals in order are for it to look good and not rust for a long time, be a fun to drive car that can have lots of miles put on it year after year, be as original as it can be, and look respectable at shows. I expect having to touch it up periodically and I expect it to show that the car gets used. We want it to look good and original, but don't care if it loses points because it isn't over restored or has signs of use. It's a car and cars are meant to be driven and enjoyed. The owner and I don't care about bragging rights, trailering it everywhere it goes, or spending more time polishing it in the driveway than being on the road.

My hope is that even though the formula changed that it will still be pretty tough paint in comparison to other options.

The local parts chain store that I have an account with deals with Dupont paint products. One of the paints they mix and sell is Dupont's Imron paint line. There are a few types of Imron. I purchased "Imron 3.5 HG" which sounds to be the tried and true Imron that everyone is referring to when they say Imron. The HG stands for high gloss, but it can be mixed as high gloss, semi gloss, satin, and flat. One of the recommended primers for Imron is Dupont's "Corlar 2.1 ST," which is a direct to metal epoxy primer that comes in a few colors including black, which is what I got. I wanted black primer so that when the paint chips there isn't gray, green, or red showing through. Imron 3.5 paint over Corlar 2.1 primer sounds to be a tried and true recipe according to my research. I will report back on how it works. I will try a few of the ideas to decide which will work best for supporting the frame for paint. I will probably try to hang it three or four feet off the ground. by a few of the bolt holes. Thanks to all of you for your ideas and constructive criticism. This forum has lots of talented and experienced folks that are willing to lecture inexperienced youngsters like me. Please keep your experiences and advice coming if anyone else wants to chime in.

I've tried POR and other one part paints that are supposedly tuff paints. I have had okay results with them, but nothing that I was super pleased with. They always chip or peel for me and don't look good after very long. Everything that I have heard or read is pointing me towards a two part paint over an epoxy primer for durability. Many people have told me that imron is one of the best for durability, color retention, and chemical resistance. All of those things are good for a frame.

Can you please share why you don't like imron? I have heard nothing but positive feedback and suggestions for it and have seen some beautiful frames painted with it. One is a museum car. The worst I hear about it is that it is pretty toxic, so I am going to paint outside with my full face respirator and a tygon suit.

I have heard as many people that are for using acid metal prep as people that oppose using it. I'm sure that it works well when it works, but I have read numerous stories of it causing primer adhesion issues. I am planning on just doing the primer immediately after the blasting, same day.

This will be my first time using an HVLP gun so I'm pretty sure it won't look over restored. It is always good to keep in mind though that anything you restore was probably far from perfect originally.

I couldn't agree more. I just want to make sure that this looks good for a few decades rather than a few months. Otherwise I would just use Rustoleum.

That's good to know. Maybe I will test it on something else first. I did get the fine Black Beauty.

Those are good points. This car also shows a good bit of frame in the back above the gas tank and the rear spring mounts

I did get the good lint free rags. They are the Krew 600 ones which everyone seems to say are the best. I also was going to tack cloth it right before primer.

The next step in the restoration I am doing on the 23 Moon is painting the frame. Could some of you who are wiser and more experiences than me share how you have painted car frames? I have already researched and acquired the best materials to use and the minimum tools that are needed to produce good results. My plan is to disassemble the whole chassis, wait for there to be 2-3 days of dry weather, sandblast the frame with coal slag, prep the frame with w&g remover, spray two coats of Corlar 2.1 black epoxy primer, and spray 2-3 coats of semi gloss black Imron. Other than approval or disapproval of any part of that plan, my main question is what is the best way to support the frame while painting it? Should I use jack stands, saw horses, string it up and hang it somehow? Should I paint it upright, upside down, a combination of both, first coat upright, second coat upside down, etc. I get it that there are probably many ways to skin the cat. What methods have you used successfully or unsuccessfully, or what would you have done different if you knew better?

There's nothing like the old perfect handle tools. It's a shame that they went out of style.

Is that a leaf spring separator?

I'll be the one to ask. What are the holes for?

This little hand vise sits in the top shelf of my to go toolbox. It is great for holding small parts, but its primary use by me is for clamping fuel lines. I am small engine mechanic.

For most screws I use a standard impact screwdriver, the type that you smack with a hammer. I almost bought one of those for working on a Jeep Wrangler once though. All of the hinges and brackets on the body are held on by Allen head screws that are Loctited in place. The only way to get them out is by either heating the bolt head with a torch or by using one of those. If I ever have to do hinges on another Wrangler I will be buying one of those.

Thanks gunsmoke. I took many measurements to make sure the hood would like up when the body is mounted. I wasn't planning on actually test assembling them yet, but now I think I will soon to make sure everything is right before going further.

Thanks a million. I have been searching for one of those for some time now. I hope it is for sale!

That is the one that I have been searching for. I'm restoring a 23 Moon and don't have the ornament. I sent you a message if you don't mind checking it.

Nice work Kevin. In my situation the original wood acts as a pattern, so I am fortunate in that way. Even though the wood is shot, I can usually get a measurement off of on side or the other. I am glad that most pieces have opposite pairs. Some of it is guesswork or averaging the two measurements. Our sheet metal is so ratty that most of it will only serve as patterns for the pieces that will replace them. Since so much of the metal needs replaced, the final shapes of many the wood pieces are not as critical as they might be if I were trying to fit them to the original metal. I am still trying to get it all pretty close to original though. That said, I'm a little jealous of how nice your sheet metal looks.

I appreciate the advice Viv. Fools despise wisdom and instruction. I did notice that the sills had significant flex to them when I put a level on various parts a month back. Since then I purchased a sandblaster and painting equipment so that I can get the frame painted this summer while it is warm. Thank you for pointing that out. I would have been quite discouraged If I hadn't noticed and made that same mistake.

Thanks Jan. That would be great.

I have some Ideas for the doors, but any advice is well taken. They will be the last parts mounted so that the pockets for the hinges can be very carefully placed and recessed.

Thanks edinmass. If you are willing, I would like to talk to you sometime about your building and what you know about Moons.