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56Roadmaster

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  1. Morning! Came across this really nice distributor on ebay at a reasonable price. I have already converted to a cast iron body, but I know folks are always looking for these, so thought I would share link. This looks fantastic metal wise. Hopefully just what someone was waiting for. Cheers! https://www.ebay.com/itm/275217830474?hash=item401442d24a:g:F0QAAOSwYpBiM8ax
  2. Heres a fun short little video from 1936. $25 for repaors and $45 for repaint lol.
  3. This should also answer the question about Packard building their own bodies. The first description frame says so.
  4. Quite a bit of discussion here. Thanks for the good discussion and the folks presenting their handiwork๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
  5. Jack lots to say there. I like it. I worked for a number of years on restorations, most not my own, but a lot involved wood replacement. I think you have made the point I was alluding to: That we often get caught in the vortex of what is perfectly, exactly, and indisputably original. You can be pretty sure all those jigs and fixtures of factories of yesterday were a compromise between "absolute perfection" and "fit for purpose" and production process. None of those jigs and fixtures, coupled with degree of skill of workmen made a perfect automobile, what they did do was make a repeatable product, for some expediture for a return, for some level of quality acceptable to the manufacturer, and customer. I might ad that has not changed to this day (I am in manufacturing) However, I do feel that what comes out restorations is the manifestation of indviduals' passions and drive for craftsmanship, unconstrained by a set level of compromise between manufacturing quality and profit. I think the restoration process and product is a tribute to the labor of love and skills that many share in preserving our motoring heritage. ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ™‚
  6. I think that most of the restorers today probably end up with a "better than factory" condition due to time, effort, and intent in recreating the wood parts.
  7. Dave like some others have said welding will be ok. You may already know this, but to put some numbers on on preheat and interpass: preheat to 800-1000F and keep the temp steady while welding and when done cool at 100F/hr max.
  8. Always a topic for discussion. Painstaking restoration of wood frame bodies. Below is a link to a video "0How Packard Builds a Body" Near the final third of the video is some great footage of how fast the wood is sawn and machined en-mass with relatively simple jigs. Watch "How Packard Builds a Body Part 3" on YouTube https://youtu.be/dkxuZZlPjsI
  9. Dibarlaw. Thank you for the pictures. No your meeting was not with me, it was likely with the man I bought it from, who it turns out I knew but had not seen in maybe 25 years, he has quite an eclectict collection of vehicles. We you involved in helping with the sale? If you have other pics would love to have them, you could send via PM. I do not have it on the road yet. However, making steady progress for 2022. Thanks. Scott. Also I Tip my cap to Hugh!!! who has been very ethusiastic and helpful in sharing his wealth of knowledge on the model 25.
  10. Hugh just 25-25 folding top. I appreciate the information, thank you. Thank you for positing pic of yours, looks sharp! Scott
  11. Have not been on here in a while. Earlier this year I ended up with the Model 25 that was listed in the buy/and sell posts back on April 4, 2018. Currently going through it mechanically, just a lot of maintenance type items. Did have it running, circled the yard with it, sounds good, nice and smooth and quiet. Plan to leave as is cosmetically with exception of top repair and seat upholstery. Distributor potmetal was gone, so I found a cast iron body from a 4 cylinder as suggested else where in these forums, fits perfect. Also have a 23 engine, and note that has a cast iron distributor as well - I checked it out and it would also have worked. Cheers.
  12. Here's my '46 Dodge WF-32, it has the 237 engine and NP 4 speed. Bought it sitting in junkyard back in 1997. Did a refurb on it. I have been using since about 1998 and put about 21,000 miles on it to date. It started out as oil delivery truck in 1946. I took the tank off and mounted an old dump body on it, the hoist is rolling wedge type. Use it for everything, scrap metal, machine pickup, wood, gravel, mulch, and moving friends and family. Not too fast but it gets there eventually. Comfortable at 45-50 mph (until we get a hill). Last year had an issue with power booster - a yellow jacket got in the booster vent line, and stuck under the valve, holding it partly open. see pic.
  13. Hello, looking for 1925 Buick Standard Six distibutor, complete or just a good housing. Would consider the iron distributor, from '23 model (maybe 23-27?). Not interested in the later 640 conversion as I already have good cap, rotor and points for early style. Send PM to my email with pics and price if you have. Thanks Scott In Connecticut
  14. On the Navy technique, that's used to check preheat for welding where approximately room temp (60F) minimum preheat is required. The source of the moisture is really the water vapor as result of burning a hydrocarbon fuel (acetylene, propane etc.). The basic combustion products are H20 and CO2 always. Once the metal heats up the water vapor no longer condenses, and yes there is a lot of water that will condense. Try your propane torch on a cold piece of material and you'll see.
  15. This is for Leif, I have not been on the forums in a long time, and tried posting a reply directly to your post on '23 olds bearings, but kept getting errors, then I tried send private message did not work, not sure what the h--- is going on, I seem to have all necessary permissions. Anyway...... I have a 1939 Hollander Interchnage Book which covers Olds back to 1924, there is section 1924-1927 which makes no differentiation bewteen models or cylinders. Here are numbers and manufacturers Front Inner 909002 (New Departure, SKF and Norma Hoffma), 10002 (Fafnir), #2(MRC (Marlin Rockwell Co), CJB (Ahlberg Bearing Co), F002 (Federal); Front Outer 909001 (New Departure, SKF and Norma Hoffma), 10001 (Fafnir), #1(MRC (Marlin Rockwell Co), CJB (Ahlberg Bearing Co), F001 (Federal). Maybe these numbers will be a starting point. These are ball bearing types. Just as note the 23 Buick 4 cylinder uses 909004 Inner and 909003 outer (N.D. SKF and Norma) for other bearing manufactures above replace the last or single digit with 3 or 4 Good Luck
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