Studeous

I think she is lovely.

Be careful. Some of the outfits selling the horsehair are clip joints……

When our number 1 daughterwas ready to fledge to school, found her a nice used toyota and a nice used vw fox. Very comparable and she liked both the same. I decided on the fox as it had a much better horn. Those little Brazillian built jobs, like most VWs of the era, had popout rocker switches on dash for various devices like lamps, hazards, etc. Her shiny preowned job had a blanked space for a switch. Went to pull a part and got one, wired it to kill the ignition power. She would hit the switch on parking and her little fox was never stolen in Austin her entire time there. And never forgot it and ran the battery down cranking it. I know… who would! But it made us feel a little better, and her as well.

Greetings. Recall in my youth working in a general line repair shop, a number of 60’s GM cars with a “C” shaped evaporotomy cut in the right front fender liner. Or was it a blowerotomy? In any case it was a component of the hvac system. I did not approve of the practice…but I was young at the time.

In the video the hub is pressed into fello (?) or whatever the wooden part is, starting at 19.00, using a fixture and a bottle jack.

Well I didnt say, its not my post. If I formatted my response wrong, sorry. I watched the video and the metal hub, sleeve, or whatever its known as by wheelwrights is pressed towards the end. Or certainly well past half way. BTW he has a channel on youtube under the shop name. Lotsa other wheelwright stuff. The method if attaching the rubber tire to the wheel rim or hoop or whatever its called was most interesting to me. I did not understand what the metal plates he attached to rim early on are for.

Looked on Coker, did not see any of these. What an interesting process, crafting these wheels! Thanks for the video.

Looks like the 90 degree elbow on intake manifold with rubber tube attached is what is in question. Maybe a vacuum source for headlight doors, or some other vacuum powered device. Is not the choke on other side of carburetor? It looks like the choke plate link is on other side. A body could disconnect the tube and see what stops working….good luck!

Outta site

Well, on the bikes you would depress the plunger. Some took just a little, some needed the fuel overspilling to get it ginning. You just had to learn the individual machine by experience. But I do recall most were reluctant to start if cold without some degree of coaxing with the tickler.

Greetings. Is that a “tickler” on top of the float chamber? A number of motorcycles I was exposed to in my youth had a similar looking device. The drill was to kick the kickstart several times, then recall the engine and yourself were cold, “tickle” the float with the little plunger on top, and then one more kick and the zundapp or allstate or ajs would happily start on the next kick. (Or the norton, once the ignition was changed to electronics.)

The diagram is not clearly drawn. The A wire leaves the generator probably thru the little box on top that is probably the cutout relay, or usually just called the cutout. That device disconnects the GENERATOR from the battery when the voltage leaving generator falls below a low value. So the battery wont run down and or cook the generator when engine is not running. The A wire connects to the left side of ammeter, and not shown on diagram connects to right side terminal of ammeter. (All current flows thru the ammeter). Wire 5 (I think its a 5) leaves there and ties into terminal on STARTER where battery cable is attached. Or possibly spliced into the battery cable at some point.... That completes path to BATTERY - terminal . Then as others said the BATTERY + terminal attaches to chassis, the common tie point for all the other devices in the system. I hope this helps you. And cheers from Texas...

Another British tell-tale would be a relentless oil drip when stationary.

No experience with ross boxes but I do like the lace job on the regulator wire loom.....Is that period correct? Reminds me of lace jobs on old and ancient western electric apparatus. Is that a stainless firewall? Nice work on the car. I do enjoy your posts. Thank you.

Impressive job. Good post. May I say, she aint slick, but she is a bronze beauty. Happy motoring in the lone star state, pardner. Oops. Meant to say sleek not slick. She is VERY slick!

I dont see any rust...

Might I suggest a shiny new plug for #2. And a substitute wire for same. Perchance the plugs and or wires got jumbled when swapping? You know, “in all the excitement, I lost count” kind of deal. Good luck cause you covered about anything else.

This is a case for Gus....

Well in any case another sleek black beauty (to qoute Click n Clack).

Remember those, since you mentioned it. Thanks! In high school I craved a brown delco remy distributer cap for my 55 chevy. Never did get one. Dont remember if too expensive or too hard to find........or I just didn’t know how to find one.

So I’m sitting here thinkn anybody knows the caps are all the same. I love it when I learn something new. Seems that happens on this forum a lot. Thanks! Where does a body find such an unusual part?

That appears to be a manufacturing defect. Return it to the service station where it was purchased. And be sure they wipe your windshield after they adjust the tire. And apologize for the trouble. 😉

Might I suggest a product called “leak-loc” or is it leak-lock ? Made by maybe LISLE company? Sorry, brane is reformatting right now. Old time refrigeration techs like me depended on it to solve leaks at joints that nothing else would solve. Clean the joint pieces well with solvent to degrease and dont get any inside the line. Amazon or ebay might have some. Or most refrigeration supply houses will sell to a regular walkin around guy an item like that on a cash account basis. Used to come in a small tube or a family size brush in the lid jar. I hope this helps. And smooth sailin in your plymouth. I recall it is made by HIGHSIDE CHEMICALS. IN A BLUE TUBE OR PLASTIC JAR.

You mentioned it acted up from one season, or time of year, from another. Might I suggest it could be a fuel problem? In our climate in Texas, the gasoline formula changes seasonally. Sometimes in the carb days of yore engines would vapor lock in spring because the fuel blended for the cooler weather (more violitile- lower vapor pressure point) would boil off in the lines and or the carb bowl because of the higher temperatures at that time of year. Good luck with your problem.

Indeed. Deserves at the least a mention at the annual Darwin Awards banquet.