Blackbetty

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About Blackbetty

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  1. Thanks for the reply. I have seen many of your videos including the one you mention. I had heard the pinion seal was a tough job. I incorrectly assumed you changed yours. I’ll get around to mine. Thanks buddy. Happy motoring. Chad
  2. Hey Keith. Very nice work! I have a question for you sir. Did you replace your rear axle pinion oil seal? If so-how much of a job was that? And have you any advice? I will tackle that on my ‘37 soon. Many thanks. Cheers. Chad
  3. Thanks all for the replies. Didn’t know exactly how to refer to the fitting. Olive! I did finally remove the hard line back out through the firewall and inspected it more closely. There was a fair amount of grit inside the back of the gauge. I cleaned everything thoroughly and did a test run with the hard line installed and pointed into the engine bay so I could moniter the gauge. I did insure the oil was run up through the line before installing the gauge. I have ordered new firewall grommets and will reinstall everything when the grommets arrive. Again thank you for the replies.
  4. Thanks for the responses. Checking all avenues. Chad
  5. Hello again. My 1937 plymouth project is getting closer to roadworthy. Problem now is the oil pressure gauge line is leaking out of the back of the fitting. Under operating pressure a drop will form between the pressure line and the back of the male fitting that screws into the back of the gauge. A no-go item for sure. I thought I could just get some 3/16th line and make another line with a flaring tool. Nope. The mating surface is more like a bubble flare or maybe even a ferrule. I am not necessarily interested in a show-car factory type repair. I am just looking to get the leak fixed and end up with a usable oil pressure gauge. By the way Bernbaum’s had nothing and I have been in contact with mopar mall in CA. The pics are a little rough. The gauge is still installed. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
  6. Thanks all for the replies. I have found the wheels I need
  7. Indeed. If I could at least find one match, I could use a different style for the spare
  8. Thanks Keith! I will keep looking. They must have made thousands of those wheels. Yours sure are lookin good! There has to be some still out there. Cheers!
  9. Inspirational! I am stalled on my ‘37 p4 sedan project. Extremely similar cars. The picture of your wheel in the cabinet makes me jealous! I just posted a “wheels wanted” in the parts section. Need at least 1. 2 would be awesome. Any advice? Many thanks! Chad
  10. Hi all. I am in a desperate state with my p4 resto. I sent five wheels to the wheel shop for bead blasting cleanup and finish. Two of the wheels were unusuable due to metal blowout at the valve stem hole. The least damaged is at the welder as a last-ditch effort to at least get the car on the ground. Not sure if it’s going to work. I am looking for a couple wheels(2) for that era car. 16”x5” 4.5” bolt pattern three small slots. And I believe the hubcap is 8”. To quote JFK: I am willing to pay any price, bear any burden, meet any hardship, support any friend, oppose any foe in order to insure the success of Ol’ Betsy. I am dead in the water with no wheels. Pictures included. Thanks all
  11. In case anyone was following this..strike two. The tractor rad cap referenced above seemed to fit beautifully, but did not seal. Had coolant sloshing out as I turned around in the parking lot at the end of my street. The nos caps available on ebay just look tired to me. I have ordered another that seems like it might do the trick. https://www.steinertractor.com/JDS504-Fuel-Cap-Radiator-Cap
  12. Appreciate it fellers. On a completely unrelated note: Meguiars #7 on who-knows-how-old-paint on ol’ Betsy gave me quite a thrill. That stuff rocks!
  13. Thanks all for the replies. I did end up ordering the steiner cap. Their website is very user friendly as it gives detailed measurements for each cap. Better rubber than nos as well. The few short test drives have sloshed coolant out and dangerously close to the generator.