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About Blackbetty

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  1. In case anyone was following this..strike two. The tractor rad cap referenced above seemed to fit beautifully, but did not seal. Had coolant sloshing out as I turned around in the parking lot at the end of my street. The nos caps available on ebay just look tired to me. I have ordered another that seems like it might do the trick.
  2. Appreciate it fellers. On a completely unrelated note: Meguiars #7 on who-knows-how-old-paint on ol’ Betsy gave me quite a thrill. That stuff rocks!
  3. Thanks all for the replies. I did end up ordering the steiner cap. Their website is very user friendly as it gives detailed measurements for each cap. Better rubber than nos as well. The few short test drives have sloshed coolant out and dangerously close to the generator.
  4. Hi all. It is getting warmer and I am getting antsy to put my first car back on the road-1937 Plymouth p4. (last registered in 1991) I have been through many systems this winter. Brakes are all new except drums and original shoes(relined). Every wire in the car has been replaced with original size or larger. I have added a few extra ground straps for lights. Typical new engine parts: cap, rotor, condensor, plugs, wires, fuel pump, water pump, water dist tube and a thorough cooling system flush. New fuel tank and fuel line. On and on. No I did not break open the engine, trans, or rear end. I am getting real close to putting tags on and calling my insurance rep. Here is my question(finally): what is a modern equivalent to heavy short fiber grease for lubricating propeller shaft u-joints on this car? I have been pretty meticulous thus far in doing "the right thing" mechanically. It will be a driver, not so much a looker. I have included an excerpt from the service manual. Thank you Chad
  5. I should be clear: the photo of the cap is the one I am trying to replace. I was sent an incorrect nos cap but I effectively destroyed it trying to make it fit. Bernbaum doesn’t have the ‘37-‘38 cap in stock. Thank you for the tip though. Might have found a workable solution with this non-vented vintage john deere fuel/radiator cap: I am going for roadworthy, not showcar. Thanks
  6. Any suggestions? I learned the ebay lesson the hard way. 36 bucks for a useless piece of stamped metal. Best I can figure the radiator is original. Thanks all Chad
  7. Thank you. Thank you! I’m goin for lo-buck right! Willing to splurge for what works. Not willing to waste my time with unnecessary “progress”. Thanks
  8. Hello everyone. Chad here working on getting my first car back on the road. 1937 plymouth p4. First system is the brakes. I have the drums and shoes at the machine shop and I am very keen on sealing up the system (grease and oil seals) as prudence dictates. I DO NOT want to reinvent the wheel or seals for that matter. Pfitz, I have taken your advice and have the felt of the front(riveted to the backing plate) seals soaking in thinner. I have owned the car for 30 years and don’t know the history previous to that. The other seals on the wheels(bolted to the rear backing plate and pressed into the front drum) are rubber. There is a cavity on the front seal where felt might have been removed at some point. Any advice on keeping grease and oil from the brakes is greatly appreciated.