drhach

Wintertime update. The car is in storage now. Lots of fiddling this Summer and Fall. I had a brand-new vacuum modulator fail on me. Talk about a smoke show. I also added a new exhaust system and had them weld in a bung for an 02 sensor. With that and a vacuum gauge, I was able to get the car to run pretty good. In spite of the exhaust crossover blocks on the intake, I was still getting a fuel vaporization issue with the car when I ran for extended periods of time in traffic. I bought some phenolic and made a couple of spacers and that seemed to have done the trick. Last but not least, I've been chasing a vibration that has followed the car through an engine rebuild, a transmission swap and two driveshaft balancings. I started looking at the pinion angle and found that I just couldn't quite get it in to spec. There's an adjuster on the top of the axle. But I maxed it out and I'm still off by a couple of degrees. Given that the car is 60 years old, I think I need to start with new bushings. The 62' is an odd duck and bushings aren't available. I found some from James at Best offer Counts for the 63-65 Riviera, but those have a 1/2" bolt versus the 5/8" on my car. This will be my project in the Spring. I also bought new Springs. I'm hoping that new bushings and Springs will change my ride height enough to give me a little more pinion angle adjustment. We'll see. Moderators, maybe you could move this thread to "Me and MY Buick"? I'm not sure who I need to speak to about that. Regards, Dan

Still have this?

Did this sell?

Great work, I did a similar exercise on the trunk emblem of my 62 last year. I was confronted with similar issues. I like the mirror finish. I wasn't able to figure this one out, so I left intact whatever I could. I found some translucent paints that mimicked the colors then I backed them with silver. One of the issues I encountered was that the red is highly UV sensitive and didn't even make it through the Summer. I would recommend a clear UV coat over the top of the emblem if i did this again. Also, for the grooves, I tried used a frayed toothpick and some mineral spirits. Same concern as voiced above. I didn't want to scratch or fog the plastic.

That's the one. Sometimes you have to process the part and then flip it for the other side. That's how I did a Quadrajet 4 barrel. It worked great.

I've got many hours on my Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner. I use pine Sol for carbs. It works great.

I'm the buyer and yes I plan to keep it original. The car is in very good shape. She's no trailer queen, but it isn't something that you'd be afraid to drive. The plan is to get the mechanicals in order and have fun with it.

I have a soft spot in my hear for the underdog. I like your car better.

I would add inspect the timing chain gears to that list.

The ad says it is "Sold". I can't imagine who would've that that was a good idea/deal.

Pictures from different times. You can clearly see the whitewalls in the first picture.

Aluminum foil and index on the bumper. Steel wool will removed the thin layer of chrome and expose the nickel.

Are you going to try to build the surface up and grind them back in to shape or try to lap them and use as is? Or are you going ot run down to NAPA and buy some new ones

Mercury

Thanks for pointing that out about the baffle. As an aside, I found a guy who did a study without a baffle, and with a couple of different baffle designs. With no baffle, he calculated about a quart of oil every 600 miles through the PCV. With a couple of different baffle designs, he was able to get that down to about a quart every 30K miles. Not a perfect study, but pretty interesting. PCV Valve Baffle vs. Oil Consumption Test Study – M/E Wagner Performance Products (mewagner.com)

C'mon now, that would have just been tacky

I didn't think JC Whitney was even around anymore. I haven't seen one of their catalogs in probably 40 years.

What I find sad is that there's someone somewhere who has a million dollars to spare and it isn't me; not that I'd spend it on that car if I did.

Good job getting that out. Mine is a little newer and just has a pipe plug in it. I tried everything and couldn't get it out.

The marketplace search function is absolutely horrible. I've had the same issues. Even craigslist would be a better place to sell it in terms of exposure.

It seems like at this point, trying to save money upfront is just going to create more expense down the road.

No, that's where the PCV goes. The grommet is the size of the draft tube in the valley pan. From there, I routed the base to the base of the carb.

It keeps also keeps the garage from getting stinky.

I bought this form Centerville Auto. It goes in toe valley pan where the original vent is now. I don't know what carb you have. I converted to a Q-Jet, so there was already and port for PCV. As others have said, you probably could route to the valve covers easy enough. 53-62 PCV kits | Centerville Auto Rep (nailheadbuick.com)

This the one you want 62 63 Buick Wildcat Invicta Electra 225 Front Lower Door Hinge Spring 1962 1963 | eBay