Bloo

Someone makes inner tubes in the US? Who?

I thought the 36 and 37 Buick 40 cases were different? Maybe not. At some point a change was made where the fill plug went straight in the side, rather than angling up (or vice versa). It does look like a Buick 40 transmission. The one with the shifter might be a 37 Pontiac that's lost it's long tailshaft. If that piece sticking out the back is an internal spline, it's a good guess. I don't know what a 38 Pontiac transmission looks like. In 38 some had column shift and some had floor shift. I'm not sure if the long tailshaft persisted in 38. If it is Pontiac, I doubt the serial number (stamped on top just behind the top plate) will be any use. You might find this thread interesting, especially at the end.

Wrong could damage the regulator. If you know what system you have it can be looked up in a manual. We know from earlier posts this generator and regulator are Autolite parts for an early 50s Chrysler product.

It's a rabbit hole, and there is no clear answer. The original factory recommendation was Type A. Around 1963 the transmission fluid we would later come to know as Type F was introduced. Ford recommended this new Ford-specific fluid retroactively to the first Ford automatics, superseding Type A. Some folks I know have a 1954 Ford that has been in the family since new. In the late 1980s, when it had about 60K miles on it, they changed the transmission fluid as maintenance. They used type F. The transmission stopped working. I don't recall exactly what the problem was. After a second change to Dexron II it was working fine. It still works normally as far as I know, though they rarely drive it today. That's a sample size of one, so make of it what you will. Your mileage may vary. If I had to make the call, I would use Dexron II or Dexron III equivalent fluid for doing a complete change. I think Type F would be fine if just topping up.

There is also a method that uses a base color (paint) and then some inks/points/stains on a roller. The roller has the grain pattern on it. That's probably the original method. One possible provider: https://woodgraining.com/

What vehicle are we talking about? Is this a 30s Mopar of some sort? Probably nothing goes inside the firewall. The only clue I have seen so far is your username. Is this a 1936 somethingorother? So, going on only that, a mid 1930s Mopar probably had a third brush generator with a cutout as @TerryB mentioned in his post, or a third brush generator with a voltage regulator and cutout (a 2-relay device). In either case, I would expect the cutout or regulator to be mounted on top of the generator. The only generator wiring would be one wire going inside the car on it's way to the ammeter. It might hit something else first, like a light switch or an ignition switch. Now I would expect a 1950s setup to be a 2-brush generator with a 3-relay regulator, meant NOT to be mounted to the generator. 1930s cars that do have a regulator like this usually have it mounted on the outside of the firewall, up high, on the same side of the car as the generator. That is also likely true of the 1950s car the generator was meant for. The location of the regulator now depends on how the person who made the wiring harness made it. Look for the following wires. The wire going inside the car powering everything, that came from something mounted on top of the third brush generator before, is now fed by the "BAT" terminal of the regulator, probably mounted up on the firewall(?). In addition to that you should have: 1) A wire from the armature terminal on the generator to the "ARM" or "GEN" terminal on the regulator. This should be a big one, like the wire going inside the car from the "BAT" terminal. 2) A wire from the field terminal on the generator to the field terminal on the regulator. This is probably smaller wire. 3) An optional ground wire from the case of the generator to under one of the mounting feet of the regulator. Not all systems had this but a lot of them did, and it is a really good idea. When you lay the harness out it is probably going to be obvious where the regulator has to go. Good luck. This later system is probably worlds ahead of a third brush system.

"Teapot" gas station in Zillah, WA., poking fun at the "Teapot Dome" scandal of the 1920s. It has been moved to a different location I believe, twice, but it still exists.

Or take the inspection band off and see which one connects to the brush directly opposite the grounded brush.

Can't you just type your old email in the username field to get in?

Nothing you can still buy (almost). Wool would have been common. Hogshair was possible. You can still buy Wilton, which is a weave style typically made in wool, not a brand. You will find several types. It is a cut pile carpet, with a stiff woven back. In modern times, there may be some kind of a binder on the back. There were loop styles. You can still buy "German square weave" in wool. It is or should be a stiff woven backed carpet. The loops are not cut. Since as far as I know no types of USA loop carpet from the 30s are still avaiable, German square weave starts to look attractive. It has a stiff woven back that might or might not have binder in it today. It can "look old". The trouble is, most of it does not come from Germany anymore, and doesn't look quite like it did. Postwar German car restorers are complaining that there are less knots per inch. "In my case, who cares?" I thought, because I have heard that USA square weaves back in the day had bigger knots (I can't prove it). I ordered some. When you get it in your hand though, it really can't pull off the "old" look as well as the old German stuff. It is still a stiff carpet, and looks like reasonable quality, so it has that going for it. Speaking of stiff carpet, a lot of these old cars didn't have much holding the carpet down. In most cases the carpet was pretty stiff. The floors were flat or almost. You see a lot of cars for sale on the forum here that have modern automotive carpet installed. Modern automotive carpet is meant to stretch to deal with some of the postwar floorboard curves. It looks pretty good when first installed in a 30s car, but soon turns into a mess by stretching and wear, while the original carpet would have been stiff and heavy and held it's shape better. Watch the ads in the "Not Mine" forum and you will see what I mean right away. I think if a person was going to use modern carpet, I think the better option would be some commercial short loop or very short pile carpeting that is stiff like the old wool carpet was. Wilton of some sort is probably your best option. For colors in regular cars, there was a preponderance of taupe, gray and maybe beige interiors, and the carpet color usually followed. In expensive cars, all bets are off.

GL-4 is oil for hypoid gears. GL-5 is heavier duty oil for hypoid gears. Either should be fine in a hypoid rear axle from 1957. Old time wisdom suggests GL-5 should be avoided if there are brass or bronze parts. Today you should really read the datasheeet for the oil if there are brass or bronze parts, because a lot of time has passed and the old "rule" has too many exceptions. There are probably no brass or bronze parts in a USA-built hypoid rear axle from 1957.

I'll throw in my vote for the 37 Graham.

The pistons have to be the correct size for the bore. Today a .030 overbore gets a .030 over piston. The piston box in the original post says "semi" on the label. These might(?) be semi-finished pistons, in other words not ground to final size. A micrometer would tell the story. In the old days, sometimes the pistons were final ground to size after the bore size was known.

If you plan to restore, the guys over on the VCCA forums will know all the finer points and details about how it was built originally. https://vccachat.org

I'm confused about what is broken on the choke stove? Rusted out tube? Can't you just make it a new tube? For the moment I can't remember what the nailhead's choke stove and tube look like, or what the problem might be, and I am not seeing it in your pictures. I have re-made the choke stove tube out of Bundyflex (brake line) for a bunch of Fords in the past. They are always rusted out or broken. It was a fiddly job but not horrible.

There is no USA title system, it is by state and different in all 50. Some states still don't title I think (Vermont?). These title threads are always beyond silly because members are in different states, and Canada, and Australia, and NZ, etc. Everyone has a solution, but rarely if ever lives in the same jurisdiction as the original poster. I read in this site somewhere that in NY they didn't have titles until 1975, while here in WA we have had them longer than anyone can remember. Great if that works in your state. I'll admit I haven't got rid of any hulks recently, but as far as I know you cannot dispose of a hulk in WA without a title. It used to make the difference between someone paying you for a "parts car", and paying to get rid of one. It probably still does. I have mentioned before that WA has the highest sawzalls per capita in the USA. I was only sort of kidding.

Two barrel like the one above?

I would look for trouble with the reversing switch, and you might not even have to take the motor apart. Most wiper motors have a little delicate switch that goes over center and flips when the vane gets to the end of its travel. This is what it looks like on a Trico motor. Yours may have something similar.

That's hexavalent chrome. You don't get that at most electroplaters anymore. Trivalent chrome is what most of them do today. It is often more neutral or even a little yellow. You can still get hexavalent chrome done, but only at a few shops and it is disappearing fast.

That pic brings back memories LOL. I have worked on a bunch of Chrysler heat risers. Firstly, you are missing more than a spring. The spring may not be such a big deal. Got a shop manual? Be very careful unsticking it if it is stuck. If it has bushings you absolutely don't want to dislodge them from the manifold. Chrysler pressed the bushings in the holes and line reamed them afterward. If the bushings are stuck to the shaft and turning in the cast iron, they wont run concentric. It will intermittently stick and drive you crazy. Do everything in your power not to dislodge those bushings. If they are already dislodged, you need to take the shaft out, put in new bushings, line ream. etc... Chrysler heat riser solvent is still made, they call it "Mopar Rust Penetrant" now, part number 4318039AD. Amazon has it. It is amazing penetrating oil, doubly so if you can heat cycle it before taking the manifold off, but even cold it outperforms just about anything else. I would use that and be gentle if it is stuck. Unfortunately, most of them are already turning on the bushings. With that out of the way, back to your question. If you cannot get the right spring, just about any heat riser spring will work in a pinch. I think the original one would up somewhere between a turn and a turn and a half, but check the shop manual and use that as a starting point. Make sure it is going the right direction, and wind it up however the shop manual says, holding the valve closed. You have a split shaft so you can change it 1/2 turn at a time if you don't like the tension. You might need to do it differently with a non-original spring. Back to that in a minute. An important item in your picture that is missing is the weight. There is also an anti-rattle pad and a "tag" thing that I don't know the proper name of. The anti-rattle pad is probably rocking horse poo. I bought Chrysler's last two in 1996. It goes on the bolt for the heat riser weight, and lands between the weight's stop and whatever it hits when the valve is closed. If you can get the anti-rattle pad, great, if not the heat riser will work fine without it. The valve will overtravel a little bit (a wee bit past closed) and it might rattle when cold. Other than that it doesn't matter at all. Then there is the "tag". It is just a piece of thin sheet metal the same thickness as the slot in the shaft. It is shaped like an old fashioned paper tag. The heat riser spring goes in the slot, then the tag goes in with it's hole hanging off the side. The tag prevents the slotted shaft from crushing where the weight clamps on, and locates the weight. The screw goes through weight-tag hole-weight-nut, or something like that. Tags are also probably like rocking horse poo, but not very hard to make. Get the correct spring if you can, but if not, you can still make it work. The weight should be arranged on the shaft to that the heavy spot is up on top when the valve is closed cold, and it falls as the engine warms. If you can arrange things so your non-original spring is holding the valve shut, but not with a whole bunch of tension at room temperature, and the valve is completely open when the engine is warmed up and the thermostat it open, it will be fine. Just looking at that, I suspect a weight from a wideblock 318 (made through 1966 in the US and 1967 in Canada) would probably fit.

Also true with electroplated chrome. Most of the time spent is preparation.

It's a gas pump. Brass era probably. I have a similar but not identical one.

The short answer is yes. A steel spring will never change it's rate as long as it remains steel. The only way for it to change rate is for the spring wire to lose diameter somewhere, for instance from rust, or to have the number of coils change. Otherwise it stays the same. This has to do with the modulus of elasticity of steel, and it is not affected by tempering or hardening or fancy steels or anything like that. Even stainless is real close. Some steels are too soft to use for springs, because they would just bend by yielding too soon, but even then the modulus of elasticity is the same. If it took a given number of pounds to push a spring an inch in 1941, it still will unless it's wire has lost diameter somewhere or the spring lost coils (cut). Torched springs will remain the same as they were. Preload can and does change. In other words, Springs can sag or be torched, or weight can be added to the car. All else being equal, if you start out with a shorter spring it is easier to get to the bump stops. The number of pounds to move the spring one inch though, that stays the same. If the car is sitting at the correct level according to the shop manual, the original springs are almost certainly fine. All damping on a coil spring suspension comes from the shock absorbers or dampers.

Looks like it had a fitted cover to keep the water out. Maybe the camera equipment?