Bloo

People weren't really using torque wrenches yet in 35. Specs seem to start appearing around 1941. If you have an engine that remained in production until 41 with the same bolt sizes, sometimes you can guess that way. On cars where that isn't true, you probably need to use a universal torque table and go by the size and thread. It's best to assume the bolts are a weak grade. They often were before the war.

Congratulations! I like it!

Look at the size of the water bag.

Oh it has a name, I just can't remember it at the moment. I'm surprised someone hasn't jumped in with a better ID. EDIT: Explosion whistle.

That's confusing. Does this car have 34x4 (26" rims) or 34x4.5 (25" rims)?

It's a noisemaker.

But does it have wheels or skis?

Can a current production electric 1/2" rattle gun compete on power with a top-of-the-line pneumatic gun from Mac, Snap-On, Matco, etc.? Would it be corded or cordless? How much would you have to spend?

It may just be toast. There is a good chance of it. Running a lead-acid battery too dead damages it. Leaving it dead does it in. On the third day dead, I would say there isn't really much hope, but I would still try. It doesn't really matter if it is an Optima or not. I'd put it on a conventional charger and hope for the best. I don't know what would be clicking in the charger. It sounds like it might not be a completely conventional charger. I think these modern "smart" chargers are a pox on the antique auto hobby because they make you waste time screwing around just trying to get them to turn on and do something. Meanwhile, the chances of saving the battery, or even bringing it back to a semi-usable state sail away. Modern charging modes are useful and do have their place, but if you are going to have only one battery charger, conventional and OLD is where it's at. Get something like the random internet example below. Every suburban house in the US had something like this in the garage from the 50s to the 90s or so. There are probably at least 30 brands, one of the most common being "Sears". The surplus now must be massive because everyone has "upgraded" to a smart charger. Look for about 6-10 amps, a 6-12 volt switch on the front panel, and an ammeter. Get one that's too old to have any fancy electronics inside. Should cost about $5 at a yard sale.

These are wood bodies with a steel top and a few other steel parts. The reverse hung doors are hanging on wooden door posts. When these get bad, the doors fall off. A lower corner of the door hanging out is indicative of looseness in the wooden door itself. There is a diagonal rod with an adjuster to pull the lower corner in, but it can only do so much. It's not uncommon to see the wood completely missing in the bottom of a door. You can't pull something in that isn't there. The cowl end of the door jamb is steel.

The burned one is not necessarily dead. My 1947 Motor Age and 1949 MoTor both list the generator and regulator for this car. There is setup info. I might not be able to post this for a day or 2 due to the holiday, unless I can get cellphone pics of the pages to turn out OK. Maybe. This is not "two charge", although the wiring is similar. This is a modern type vibrating voltage regulator plus a cutout, and operates on a different plan than a TC series "two charge" regulator. If my manual can be believed, the wiring diagram already posted by @Oldtech should match this Hudson regulator except for the possible lack of a fuse, despite the diagram being labeled "two charge". This is a 43 amp system, crazy huge for a third brush system, although it will be a bit hobbled by the bell curve of third brush current regulation, so I guess it makes sense... sort of. The field current is less than 2 amps at 6 volts. I am no stranger to field fuses. Chrysler alternator systems had a fuse wire for a field that drew about 2 amps. It was at 12 volts, but that doesn't really matter. When the correct fuse wires were no longer readily available, I often used a tiny copper strand to replace it. For a 2 amp field, when substituting copper wire for a fuse wire, the wire could, and should, be REALLY tiny. A tiny strand from a piece of stranded copper wire will work. If magnet wire is to be used, even #30 is on the large size for 2 amps. Think tiny. The tinier the better. A #30 wire would take a surprising amount of time to open even at 12 or 15 amps. Still, it is remarkably smaller than the wire in the generator and should offer some protection when things go bad. It can be soldered in place. It should have a little loop, so that temperature changes and vibration can't move it around enough to crack it. Copper work hardens quickly, so we don't want it to get bent by motion much at all. The lack of a screw for adjustment here is no big deal, because nothing should need adjusting. The failures should first be repaired. If adjustment is necessary it can be dealt with when the system is working.

Does any of it match this? On a closer look it looks about like the ones you are reproducing. This is years from running, and currently difficult to even access due to snow. I'm not in a hurry.

Thanks!

I can't speak for those guys, but on my 1936, the rubbish new points problem is very real. It is a different set of points than Phil's car would take. There are 2 pieces. Going from memory of several years ago, I bought my first set from Standard Ignition, AKA Blue Streak, who used to sell a no-compromise premium product. This set had fairly small points, a plastic rubbing block, no copper strap, etc. They looked a lot like the ones you used to get at K-Mart in a blister pack back in the 70s. There was no vent hole in them though, I consider that a good thing, and I though they would be OK. After all, those old K-Mart points did work OK, they just didn't last as long as the premium stuff. When I installed them, they didn't fit tightly around the pivot pin. There was a lot of slop, like probably 1/32" or more. I didn't see how that could work, and it didn't. The distributor cam could just pull on the rubbing block and move it around. The timing mark was jumping all over the place and the engine ran horrible. A little looking around online showed that anything else I might easily get (Niehoff, NAPA/Echlin, Carquest, BWD, etc.) also came from Standard. Look on their Wikipedia page. They make or import everything. The list of ignition brands is a paragraph long. I hoovered up a bunch of NORS points on Ebay and never looked back. I won't be running out soon.

OK so it's the primary side, and you didn't trigger it? You must have had a whole parade pattern then? And only one of the eight was bad? What fixed it? Cap? Rotor? Both? I'm trying to get my head around what "cap to rotor segment" means in that online example.

How did you have that hooked up? Are we looking at just one bad cylinder?

Ok that's confusing..... Hopefully I can make this a bit less muddy. A "typical" model T tire is a 30x3-1/2 clincher. It goes on a 23" clincher rim. In 1912, before demountable rims, you would have had these 30x3-1/2 clinchers on the back, and 30x3 clincher tires on 24" rims on the front. Well maybe. I think if you were in Canada you would have had 30x3-1/2 clinchers all the way around. During the Model T's peak years, when demountable rims were common, 30x3-1/2 all the way around was the norm. Those are the rims (and wooden wheels) we have been talking about so far. 23" clinchers. When Ford brought out the "Improved" T's with the nickel radiators, 1925-27, you could get straight sided tires on either wire wheels or wood wheels with demountable rims. These are (with few exceptions) 21 inch rims, and use a fatter tire than the 23 inch clinchers we have been talking about so far. Straight sided rims were made for 30x3-1/2 on the 23" demountable rim wheels too. They were mostly in South America I think. You don't want them. Tires for those, for historical reasons are marked 31x4 in the US, but are the same size as 30x3-1/2. They just cost a lot more for no benefit, and are probably a lot harder to get. If you want the standard wooden-wheels-and-skinny-tires Model T look, stick with 30x3-1/2 clinchers.

No, early 36. Same lenses as 35. It's also got a 4-softplug block. Definitely early in the year.

Master Sixes have straight axles in front. They also have black knobs on everything and that "square" pattern of stitching on the door panels, assuming they copied the original. That's how I could tell. Deluxes, Sixes or Eights, have Chevrolet-type "Dubonnet" independent front suspension. They have brown knobs inside and a different stitch pattern on the door panels. All Eights (like @aristech's car) are Deluxes.

Keep us posted if you do. That's a Master Six, a lot like mine.

Got a link? Couldn't find it.

Morgan

Well keep me posted. I believe some of this is mangled on my N project, but I don't remember which parts or how mangled. I probably need some or all of this if it is the same as N. The building it is stored in is currently inaccessible due to snow.

Yes you can repair regulators. As you can see by looking at them, there isn't much to go wrong. Follow the current paths through it using @Oldtech's diagram. Those don't even look corroded up. Riveted connections deserve a close look, and resistors which can have a broken resistance wire. The fuse @Oldtech mentioned may be a fuse wire. Since the manual is telling you not to adjust it, avoid the springs and avoid taking the armatures off the relays or resetting any points gaps. Light cleaning only on the points, like dragging paper soaked in brake cleaner between the points, etc. A tiny file is ok in severe cases but maybe one drag. These old regulators often have precious metal, platinum, silver, etc on the points and you don't want to lose it. No sandpaper. It will leave crud embedded in the points. The adjustment info is probably in a MoTor or Motor Age manual of the period, but avoid all that for now. That fuse (fuse wire?) is probably broken because it is consistent with your symptoms. If you find it is the problem, it is time to really scrutinize your battery cables and connections for the whole charging system. A peculiarity of third brush generators is that the voltage will try to run away when there is no load (no battery). When the voltage runs away like that, it will try to burn out the field in the generator because the voltage gets so much higher than the field was designed to take. If you find that fuse burned up, my guess is the battery got disconnected somehow when the engine was running. If the fuse isn't burned up, maybe post more pics from different angles and from the bottom. EDIT: That might not be the same one @Oldtech posted. Post your Autolite number or better yet a pic of the tag. "Two Charge" may have already been gone(?) by 1942 in favor of some other two-unit Autolite regulator. EDIT 2: Also whats your generator number? Hudson was using third brush from 1940-1950? That doesn't sound right. Almost everyone dumped third brush systems in 1940. I'm wondering if your generator and regulator go together. I probably don't have a way to look it up, but I'll try, and If I can't maybe someone else can.

It's probably on the truck somewhere, on an etched/stamped plate. It may still not be clear when you find the plate. Look on the firewall and in the kick panels inside. Take a pic of it and post, and I think you will get better answers. My best guesses. Not 2 ton. There were about trucks like this all over the place when I was growing up, and probably quite a few in service even now hauling wheat during harvest. Typically 2 tonners had 8.25-20 tires, and 1.5 ton had 7.50(?)-20, or whatever the closest actual size is to that. There weren't many 1 tons around. I think they mostly had a smaller rim size (17"?) because they had a reputation for a lower bed height. Maybe some 1 ton had 20 inch? I don't know how big Dodge trucks got in those years. I believe Chevrolet topped out at 1.5 ton, but you could step up to GMC. It will probably turn out to be a 1.5 ton with undersize tires on it, but I cannot figure any way to narrow it down from what we have seen so far.