Bloo

That's great news! If you want to catch whatever is left, you could put in magnetic plugs (fill and drain). After I had my metal-in-the-transmission incident, I did it. I probably didn't need to since the transmission had been all apart and clean, but I did it anyway. Magnetic plugs seem to be extra expensive if you want pipe threaded ones, and I have no idea why. I made my own. I found some square headed pipe plugs that were solid steel (instead of hollow cast), drilled holes, and staked the magnets in. I might have epoxied them too, I don't recall, but staked the steel for sure so there is no possibility of them getting loose. I've not pulled them to see if they caught anything. One of those springs looks to be sticking up higher than the other. Were both of the balls in place?

The Loctite 640 sleeve retainer got here, and after curing in front of the heater for a day, I took it over to @37_Roadmaster_C 's house and poked a hole in the side for the grease port. And then a little cleanup and deburring with a dremel tool.... And it looks really, really nice! Next I will need to test fit the rear bushing and the impeller to make sure they still fit like I think they do, and check the hardness of the shafts. I have some Rockwell files on the way. Then, back to the front: 493298 is apparently a Torrington NB-10 bearing. This one is marked NB-10-X. At some point Torrington stopped putting the oil hole in the side of their drawn cup needle bearings by default, and afterward you had to specify the hole if you needed it. I think that would be NB-10-OH. The hole is needed here. I've never seen the 493299 oil cup. I have a couple of potential substitute oil cups with the right thread here, so finishing the pump up and making it work is no problem. I'd like to see what they actually used though. There was a 1936 Pontiac for sale in Florida recently, and it appeared to have a pump like this one. See the oiler? Let's zoom in.... I emailed the seller and asked for a better picture, no response. Oh well. I wonder if anyone in the forum here bought the car? I have these. I suspect the one on the right is closer to the correct size. It's diameter is about 5/8". The trouble is, it is a wick oiler. That is the wick I pulled out of it at the right. I would have to figure out how to gut it. The standpipe inside looks silver brazed at the top. I have no idea what they did at the bottom.

I'm happy for you. 😛 I don't have that much trouble either, but had the gotchas pounded into my head in tech school. Look around on the internet, lots of people wont use it because they "don't like the soft pedal" and will insist it is "compressible". The average person who is accustomed to bleeding DOT3 fluid never gets all the air out when using DOT5.

Definitely post questions about this in one of the early Pontiac sections, or the general AACA Technical section might be even better. It's more active. Pontiac people may not ever see this hidden amongst the Chrysler products. We have several Pontiac split-head six enthusiasts around here. @32Pontiac6 might know something or know who to ask. For parts, I always start with @Kornkurt.

It's just a normal 3 on the tree. The mention of the pushbutton delete is because manual transmissions in Chrysler products of this era are like rocking horse poo. A car converted to manual after the fact would be missing the delete plate for sure. You would never, ever find one.

That may depend on what fluid and who you ask. I have heard stories from people who would not make it up about it turning to gel. Personally, any DOT5 I have ever used said it could be mixed. The reason you wouldn't want to mix it even when the bottle says you can is that it does not actually mix. The DOT5 floats on top, so you get all the worst features of both types. The system is near impossible to bleed like a DOT5 system, and the DOT3 and water migrate down to the bottom of the calipers or cylinders where they still cause the rust damage, boiling, and brake fade problems you expect from DOT3.

Post the size. If they are 8.25-20 or something similar, you should have no trouble getting them. Gobs of trucks used the same tires (for the same tonnage) for decades. Truck tires are huge and thus expensive. I recommend learning to swear in several languages as preparation. All kidding aside, if they are locking ring rims, any shop that caters to large over-the-road trucks should be able to handle it. If you had to do it you would need to go into full restoration mode though, and strip them and blast them and paint, at the very least in the areas hidden by the tire, and the areas where the locking ring parts fit together. If seriously eaten away by rust, they are dangerous and nobody is going to touch them. In that case you'll need to get better ones. If you mount them yourself, which I do NOT recommend, wrap logging chain around the tires and through the big holes in several places and bolt it solidly before attempting to inflate a freshly mounted tire. Control the air from a distance when they are first inflated (no holding the air chuck on the stem like a normal car). If they're not locking ring rims, all bets are off. You may need to get different wheels. It looks like you are missing a couple of wheels on the back. It's got drum brakes so no pads. If they're going to seize though, they probably already have. The reality is you will probably have to completely go through the brakes and wheel bearings to get even a minimum of function. Brake parts for big trucks are expensive. Some of it may be salvageable, but I would expect this to be a significant cost. Someone will want that for sure. In which state or province is it located?

And I hollered, "Don't look, Ethyl!", but it was too late, she'd already been mooned.

Details about those front wheels would be good. They are the most interesting part of the whole thing. what are they from?

Get well soon!

As I recall that was just soft iron wire.

All vinyl?! That's probably what I saw in green. I assumed it was brocade or something.

I remember that well. I used to think they all had it, but it is so uncommon to see any 66 DPL. Not too long ago I saw an ad for one with a green interior that appeared to be original and did not have the houndstooth. Does anyone know if that's possible?

Yeah, it does. I think it's really a Pobeda (GAZ M-20)

Caught 3 of his shows in Seattle back in the 90s. Great stuff.

In my opinion, tear it down. @Gary W's pictures are great, and there was a time when I could have really used those, but they are a different transmission. This car has a 320, and so has the bigger transmission. I knew it when I saw the pictures of the synchronizers. They are the big ones, and are of a different design. I recently had a similar scare, but on the smaller transmission (like @Gary W's). I drained the oil and a piece of synchronizer detent spring fell out.

Coker isn't the only game in town for some taller tires. Almost, but not quite. There is also Diamondback https://dbtires.com/ who have "Diamondback Auburn Deluxe" bias-look tires of their own manufacture in some of the old tall sizes. They also have modern tires with whitewalls added. All Diamondbacks are radials. Auburn Deluxe prices are comparable to Coker bias-look radials. No great opportunity to save money, but nice tires nonetheless.

Off the rack tires often don't fit well on these old cars because of the aspect ratio. The tallest aspect ratio you can get in many cases is 75%, and old pre-1965 tires were either 100% or 90%. I believe that changed in 1948, but cant find documentation of it. 1965 was another major change. In all cases, if the exact size existed before the change, it remained the same as it was after the change. was 7.60 your original size? No matter what you do, an off the rack 75 series tire will either be too wide or too short. That's just the way it is. It boils down to "what can you live with?". One problem is gearing. 40 series Buicks in of the 1930s are geared slow enough that people in 2022 generally don't like it, and shorter tires will make it worse. I doubt that is as big of a deal by 1950, and if it is, you could always change rear axle gears like @Ben Bruce aka First Born did. There are taller gears in other Buicks that will fit in a 1950. Regarding the speedometer, if I am not mistaken Buick used interchangeable speedometer pinions in some cases after about 1941, and some critical reading of a Buick parts manual might find you a speedometer pinion that would work without tearing the transmission apart to change the worm. I think there is a good chance of that. It is also possible to buy a little gearbox from a speedometer shop to fix the speedometer error. It screws on at the transmission end of the cable. They cost about $100 as I recall. Just do any rearend gearing changes you might need and find some tire size you are happy with first.

Salt. Rust. Up here in Washington State where we didn't use such things back in the day, 20, 30 and 40 year old cars were all over the place. Not so many 40 year old ones in daily service, although it wasn't really that unusual either. There was a surplus of 15-20 year old cars laying around. I revived one car in the 80s that hadn't made it quite 10 years (1961, last tagged in 1971). I thought it extremely unusual at the time that someone had given up on a car less than 10 years old.

@Ben Bruce aka First Born

In the teens there was no standard. It was fairly common for there to be a floating ground. Ground return wires were used for everything in that case. I have a 1913 Studebaker that requires it. There is no electrical starter, only a Splitdorf hotshot magneto that uses 6 volts, originally from dry cells, for starting. Splitdorf literature is explicit that the primary side (batteries) cannot be grounded, since the engine (and thus the spark plugs) are grounded. Engines were usually mounted directly to the chassis in those days and my Studebaker is no exception. Some other Studebakers of this era had electric start, a hotshot magneto, a 12 volt starting and charging system and they ran 6 volt lights on it. I imagine the grounds were floating. 9 volt hotshot systems also existed at that time. In those days the starting and charging system and the ignition system were likely to be from different vendors. Never mind the lights. The automaker did whatever was necessary to make all that play nice. If I am not mistaken, I have seen a wiring diagram for some car that had both dry cells (for a hotshot magneto) and a lead acid storage battery. A quick flip through a wiring diagram manual for teens and 20s cars will definitely surprise you. A starting and charging system is likely to be grounded rather than floating because the starter is bolted to the engine. It wouldn't have to be connected electrically but it often is. The manufacturer of the starting and charging system in that case would be driving whether the system is positive or negative, and whether it is 6 or 12 volts. In the mid teens, Hupmobile went from a 6 volt to 12 volt and back to 6 volt within the space of 2 years as they changed starting and charging systems. I believe the grounding changed during that time as well. An interesting question to ask is why the Model T Ford is negative ground, and the Model A Ford positive? In that case it is likely that Ford engineered both systems, and was not at the whim of an outside vendor.

Off the top of my head, that's probably the heater core to the right and the ranco valve to the left. I think the spaghetti would clean up easily.

Thanks, will look into it. 👍

I've already got the cheapos. $50 for a set! Actually make that $75, because the acetylene regulator needed an adapter (Western 320) to fit my tank. I've not tried them yet. Who knows how long they will hold up? The Victors were excellent until about 10 years ago. The acetylene regulator is doing fine since being rebuilt then. I'm kind of hell bent on getting the oxygen fixed.

I don't know exactly what a 3804 is, but I think an Apache is a 1/2 ton isn't it? The "3800" part suggests you have a 1 ton truck. Maybe a dually? Maybe not? In any event you should be looking for 1 ton parts. Others will probably be along who know more than I do. If you don't get good answers, try: https://vccachat.org and or https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/forum_summary.html Good luck on the project, and welcome to the forum!