automaschinewerks

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About automaschinewerks

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  • Location:
    Neustadt, Ontario, Canada

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  1. I had a broken speedo cable in my Erskine when I got it on the road a couple years ago. I matched the cable to a model a ford cable, exact measurements, I just had to check the size on the trans end and compare to a customers model a. worked 100%, then the speedo quit after a trip. I took off the end at the speedo and found the same - speedo free spinning and cable was not broken again. I did this twice and the speedo would work for a few hundred feet. by looking at the end when I took it off the speedo, it looked like the cable was falling out of the speedo head. I checked the depth of the hole for the cable end at the trans, and seen that the cable could slip down far enough into the speedo gear at the trans end. I folded over a piece of plastic string trimmer wire and shoved it into the trans end to hold speedo cable up so as not to wind its way down and out of mesh with the speedo head. its worked perfect now all summer. sorry for the long explanation, now I can go back to sleep - terry
  2. thanks very much for everyones replies, I really appreciate it. here's and update - I just found out the car is a 1917. that's the problem with relaying messages through two different guys, I shouldn't have posted until I talked to the guy actually working on it! if there's anybody that wants to update the info now that I know the year for sure, im all ears. - terry
  3. thanks for everyone's replies. I will pass this on, but I will try to talk to the owner, and see the car. if its a regular 3 or 4 speed sliding gear trans., would it likely use the 600w steam cylinder oil that is recommended for a few of the old cars?
  4. thanks keene, that's good to know, I thought it was strange to have a wet clutch. maybe its wet by accident, like the seal is out of the engine or transmission.
  5. hello everyone, I have a customer who has a customer who has a 1913 abbott Detroit. he tells me the car has a wet clutch. is it a conventional style transmission, other than the wet clutch, and what would the gear oil be? I don't seem to be able to dig up much information on the car, abbott Detroit doesn't seem to have made cars for very long. thanks - terry
  6. I have the old filler block for the rear seal, my former boss' friend that does aluminum casting wanted to make them out of cast aluminum, which would be quicker and repeatable. I still may do that if I drum up some interest to make it worthwhile for him to make a pattern for the castings. it would be a cost plus the shipping deal, it wouldn't be a huge profit markup thing for me. the filler block I made probably took about 12-14 hours, making another one probably wouldn't take quite as long now. getting them cast would probably be the way to go, I forget now but when I visited him on a Kubota engine job, he was making the pattern for a pierce arrow head, and cast a few for a club somewhere.
  7. pi top pic showing rear seal block almost finished, then the block installed in place over the rear main cap, then the finished bottom end with the oil feed pipes
  8. the replacement water jacket cover from dave on Vancouver island. I got flywheel cover and a starter pedal from him to complete the car. parts I never thought I would find. I still kinda cant believe my luck@
  9. yup, goin home worked! thanks! things are so simple when you know. so first one here is a poor pic of my rectangular block of aluminum in lathe starting to turn rope seal groove, then in milling machine cutting out rear seal filler block to fit over main cap, then making piston pin buttons in lathe, and last pic is of rods and pistons, Babbitt and pin bushes finished, with piston pin buttons (center piston with pin and buttons installed) piston pin buttons to replace circlips, aircraft engine-style
  10. thanks very much, ill try that, I knew there would be something simple!
  11. here's a couple more, boring the rod Babbitt, and boring the piston pin holes in the con.rod boring machine.
  12. im just getting to the interesting pics but ill try tomorrow, im at my download limit (unless somebody knows something about that I don't)
  13. the engine is back in the car and running again. finally!! here's some more pics; the first three are the crank in the crank grinder turning the rod journals turning connecting rod small end bushes from used model a transmission bushings, then finish honing the rod bushings to size
  14. Matt, thanks, that is very interesting and I understand electronics like very stable voltages, I don't know if even the off and on from the generator cutout is pushing the line. most people that use the electronic have converted to an alternator, which isn't happening on my cars. those are the type of answers I may not get when I phone pertronix's tech-line. I do prefer my points, for reliability, and roadside serviceability. not to mention originality. the only reason I wanted to try them was to see if I could lean my carburetor due to the stronger spark. its the type of thing where curiosity may kill the cat.