automaschinewerks

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About automaschinewerks

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  • Location:
    Neustadt, Ontario, Canada

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  1. how new or old is your engine? or mileage? if the pistion rings passed some oil, it would be worse at high speeds because of the splash and spray from the crank journals, the compression gets higher at high speeds, and oil gets past a slightly rotten or seeping head gasket to the water jacket. the gasket may not be seeping enough to let water in the other way because there is no coolant pressure. when you say engine oil mixed with coolant do you mean a film on top of the water level, or a half inch of oil when you look down the cap? terry
  2. hello, are you selling/shipping any items? i am interested in the steering wheel controls thanks - terry
  3. I just used a chrome duo-lite repop from macs auto parts, the model a restoration parts place. it seemed to look as close as anything i seen in pictures, and was cost effective. terry
  4. here are a couple pics from a car auction i was at here in southwestern ontartio on Saturday. cars sold for awful low prices (about half what i thought they would). i wanted to buy the 22, but i held myself back, i really don't know how i did that! the Erskine sold $5750, the 22 for $5400, and that's Canadian. i haven't done the calculation, but i think that's like $1500 US. I should have took pics on my phone Saturday, i don't know why when i copy, they come out blurry. terry
  5. yes they have been in for a year and a half now, they fit perfectly with no machining.
  6. great looking car. great story being in the family. where are you from? the best thing I did was get the service manual and parts manual reprints of ebay, I actually get more use out of the parts manual. then get an original owners manual, it you don't already have one, theres a couple on ebay as well. terry
  7. your using washers under the nuts is a fine idea, just don't use cheap hardware store type washers, they may deform and lose abit of torque, i also use Loctite on the threads when i assemble and forget about the cotter pins and trying to line up the holes and slots. get your torque value (3/8 NF = 40 ft/lbs), use Loctite and torque the nuts. this will avoid trying to over/under tighten to line up holes for cotter pins. now about your pairing up rods on mating journals. that works for static balance, which is if you are looking at the end of the crank and only seeing a pulley, or a stone being swung around on a string. by keeping the rods and piston assemblys all the same weight, will keep the crank in dynamic balance, which means in balance along its length. you go mixing up your rods and having heavier/lighter to one end of the crank just kinda takes away the benefit of dynamic balancing the crank. so its best to use good hard washers, get the rods even weight, and don't mix up and regrind numbers. it makes things look like a dogs breakfast and I'm kinda fussy that way. terry and yes, trying to get 19 grams of a rod that doesn't have much of balance pad on the cap seems like eternity!
  8. i don't understand the heaviest and lightest pair on cyls number whatever and next heaviest and light on cyl numbers something else. the idea to balancing is the make the rotating assemblys masses exactly the same. and yes, i read now that he did balance the pistons
  9. i just looked at your figures, from what ive been trained, and read in balancing manuals, you need to lighten each big end to match the lightest big end, then turn rod around and make each small end weight the same as the lightest small end SEPARETLY. so number 1 rod is lightest on both ends, 750 and 228, so all rod ends much be lightened to match the lightest figure. also weigh each piston and face off bottom of skirt to match the lightest piston. pins should be weighed separately, but always seemed pretty close, if not perfect
  10. on a straight 4/6/8 engine, there is no need for bobweights because the 1-6, 2-5, 3-4 rod journals are equally spaced on the length of the crank from the centerline to the ends, and equally indexed at 120 degrees apart. on a v8 type engine, there are 4 rod journals equally indexed, but not mating on an equal spacing from the center main on the crank. that should be as clear as mud for balancing big ends i ground off at the corners where the rod bolt heads, and nuts seat. there is material hanging outside the head/nut that is doing anything for strength. on the small ends i like the idea of washers on the pinch bolt, or on circlip rods i have ground a big chamfer around the pin boss area, and sometimes narrowed the small end width abit, but not too much though! if grinding on the big ends, don't get the rod hot enough to melt babbit, (pretty much blue color). my former boss told me about an employee that did that, and i don't like getting screamed at, so i was careful not to star in that movie! terry
  11. i had a look at your fenders, as well as the other parts. i would give my left leg for the fenders for my dictator, but then i wouldn't be able to push the clutch pedal and the car would be useless to me, seriously though, if the fenders or any of the other parts were for sale separately, i would be interested. (or i could just buy your car to get fenders for mine) terry
  12. the last pic for the day: the short side cut off half of the seal housing and the drawing i got off of the remnant piece. if anybody needs a clarification on my dimensions, reply and ask. once i start making the bottom half i will show the drawing and more pics.
  13. here's the rear seal top half part of the project the full round sitting in groove to test the fit cummins piston top in lathe starting to turn the shape with what was left of the seal holder sitting on top the seal half in the block after i cut it in half ( still have to file fit to parting line) the seal half with crank in place
  14. here's a couple more: block in surface grinder showing valve guide cutoff tool to trim port side of guides down to level of casting to improve airflow block set up in honing machine to finish cylinders valve seat cutters to cut valve seats