Bloo

The USA. Pumpkin was common usage up where I live 40 years ago and probably still is. I try to refrain from using colloquial terms like that since we now regularly communicate with people around the world. It was not so back then. I probably slip more often than I realize.

Pig, Pumpkin, Punkin, Third Member, or Chunk is the removable center section of a dropout-style rear axle (such as a Mopar 8 3/4" or Ford 9"). Aren't you glad you asked?

Glued?!

I don't know of anyone in your area offhand. I am guessing there must be someone in San Diego who can do that, but if not Brake and Clutch Supply in Seattle (6th Avenue) seem to be able to handle anything you throw at them. https://www.brakeandclutchsupply.com/locations.shtml Brake and Equipment in Minneapolis is another good bet. https://brakeandequipment.com/machine-shop/#category_id_21

Who did the resilvering?

That transmission is for a Special. Note the low-profile shifter top. The big Buicks have a more normal-looking shift tower.

I believe that stuff is a form of Loctite. If you are going to try Indian head, put it on wet. It is brittle when dry. It is slippery when wet, so don't overtighten and break something. I would be extremely hesitant to use Indian Head on anything near a fuel system today. There is too much alcohol in the gas. I speak of pipe threads here. Other fittings probably don't seal on the threads. I use teflon paste, as I don't want the tape anywhere near a fuel system. If a fitting moves, I redo it. I figure if there is any tension in the tubing, it might unscrew later from vibration.

Never leave a nylon sprocket in an engine for any reason.

Thats great news! :)

I replaced scads of those back in the day. Those "nitrophyl" floats had a useful life of about 80K miles, and then they sink. The service manuals had a specification for weight, and you could theoretically weigh them and re-use them if they had not gained weight. If you did, the car would be back in a week or a month with a sunk float, and you would get to do the rebuild all over again. NAPA had brass replacements, as well as the Nitrophyl ones. Maybe the brass was an upgrade, or maybe the earliest quadrajets had brass, I'm not sure. The brass ones make it much harder to get the float level correct, but last forever. Nitrophyl will fail, probably before anything else in the carb does, but sets up correctly on the first try. Pick your poison.

I like the coil theory. If it isn't that, ohm test all your plug wires, inspect the distributor cap under a bright light for carbon tracking, and put in a new ignition rotor. How sure are you about the fuel delivery? Mid to late 30s GM sending units (at least on Buick and Pontiac) have a copper pickup tube, and it can crack where the strengthening rib is crimped around it on the top of the sending unit. I am not sure if Olds used this design. Could the exhaust be plugged? Mice? I would go drive with a vacuum gauge attached to the intake. It probably wont be definitive, but might provide a clue or two. Is the heat riser working or at least open? Will it screw up if you rev it high in the shop with the engine unloaded?. If so, disconnect the vacuum advance, and if it still does it try backing off the timing at the engine speed in question, and see if it smooths out. Most people today find that they need more timing on todays fuel, but on my 1936 Pontiac, I found I needed less, a lot less. I have three distributors, and according to my Sun 404, they all met factory spec for advance. I had to shorten the curve up, a lot. I took 10 degrees out of the vacuum advance, and some out of the centrifugal as well. I cannot get my head around how it can be that it will not run right with the factory curve, but it wont. It runs terrific now. That Olds engine isn't the same, but is a fairly similar design. One more thing, Does it use the 2-piece points? If so, look your points over really closely. I had some new production Standard or BorgWarner points that fit very loosely around the pivot pin. They were floating at high speed, and the timing was jumping around about 10 degrees. NORS points from Ebay in some off brand solved that. If you have a moving breaker plate, make sure it has a good flexible ground wire to the distributor case.

What size is the hole in the tool you purchased (that wont work on your Pontiac)?

I need that tool too. I couldn't find it on Bob's. What is he calling it?

Here is a thread with some 1920s Timken axle pics. Apparently there was more than one type.

Great to see it on the road!

But you are still limited mainly by the tires, just like when the car was new. Has anyone driven this car enough to know what it's limitations actually are?

Fisher/GM doors were made of wood just 3 years prior.

Maybe, but apparently that feature (it seems to be only on the big trucks) carried through to 1946 civilian production after the war. The new "Advance Design" trucks, a complete redesign, came out only a year later in 1947. Here is a big truck still hauling fruit for the company that bought it new in 1946. It has the cut out fenders. This truck was never military. It has been blue and black since the beginning.

Most active club AFAIK is the Early Times Chapter of POCI: http://earlytimeschapter.org/ California Pontiac Restoration has parts: http://www.pontiacparts.net/ Welcome to the forum!

I like them. John348 nailed it, people put them on to keep the upholstery new. It was so common then and now you never see them. When you do see them it really gives the car a connection to the past.

Good catch on the parking light. 41 it is.

1922 Paige? Have a look at this thread. Still unidentified, but could be a 1922-ish Paige.

Another 41. I can't really see a fender difference for 46 on the pickups.

1941 seems to have less fender cutaway than 1946, at least on a larger truck. It still has the parking lights on top. Or, maybe it's a pickup.

Look at THIS.