SDLARS

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About SDLARS

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/21/1951

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    western SD

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  1. Back to strong oil pressure. Gotta believe there was some little piece of crap that got lodged in the little line that leads to the gauge from the block. Oh well, learned a few new things about the car. We'll see what the next issue will be.
  2. On second thought, it doesn't seem like a large enough hole to have caused a total loss of oil pressure. Still needs to be remedied.
  3. Found the problem, I think. Crank wire a hole in the supply line. Probably something I overlooked. Should be a photo attached.
  4. Not yet. Had a few other tasks get in the way. I did put an electric drill on the pump and ran it in some oil. Seems to pump quite well. Have to check the lines. Don't know why, at this point, I didn't get more volume out of the gauge fitting in the block when I cranked it. An early 50s Buick must be like an early 50s Pontiac. I've done it a couple of times on my 52 and have decided things will have to get serious before I do it again.
  5. Dropped the pan and removed the pump last evening. Need to look more closely but all looks intact. Beginning to wonder if the oil line to the gauge got plugged. More to come.
  6. Distributor out. All pins intact. I now assume the dog on the pump that mates with shaft is sheared?
  7. Had it out, knew about the set screw but totally forgot! Embarrassing
  8. Checking gauges when I start an engine is something I always do. Had 30-35 lbs as I left the garage. On these old engines I find myself checking often. I had gone less than a half mile when I noticed the gauge read 0. No particularly nasty noises (yet). Tried to remove the distributor. It is loose and has a small amount of up and down play but won't lift out. Something is obstructing it. I plan to drop the pan anyway and look for issues. Any advice at this point?
  9. That's the information I needed. Thanks Reid
  10. Have a little over 100 miles on my car and have had no serious issues. Took it out this morning for a short drive. Got about a half mile from home when it lost all oil pressure. Got it home to the shop, removed the oil line to the gauge and cranked it over without ignition. Did notice a little bubbling from the connection but not the volume I would expect. Went to the service manual. Was about to pull the distributor to see if the drive pin is sheared when I began to wonder if that's my problem, will the drive gear come out with the distributor or will it stay with the pump. Will I have to remove the pan? Any and all guidance is appreciated.
  11. I'd like to have the hardware on my window shades rechromed and I have the body manual that tells me how to disassemble them but I can't see how the ratchet end mount can be removed from what I will call the spring shaft. Anyone have experience with these? Right now, my alternative is to clean them up and paint them black. Photo should be attached.
  12. It's awfully dusty and I still need to install the interior moldings and shades but I took it out today and put a few miles on it. Ran great. She's going to be fun.
  13. I have two of these and would very much like to find one more. I have two of the sheet metal versions I would be willing to trade.
  14. Sorry I've been so slow responding. I hope I can describe this logically. Apparently I had a situation where I was cross feeding the ignition to the lights and the lights to the ignition. The car has been wired and I have been moving it around the shop under its own power for about a year. I didn't have the headlights mounted or the tail light wired into the lamp until recently. I had checked the head and tail light wiring with a multi-meter and everything functioned. The problem didn't surface until sometime after the head and tail lights were installed but not immediately. The fuel pump did not start with the light switch pulled nor did the lights come on with the ignition switch. I used the wiring diagram and a little logic, changed a couple of wires and now it's working as it did. I'm wondering if there could be something inside the switch that caused the problem? Not a very good explanation but it honestly had been behaving as I originally described it. It's now fine again.
  15. Everything back to normal.