Bloo

I have seen pictures of this type of lubricator in books, but I don't remember where. It is a relic from the days before spring liners, when leaf springs were lubricated with graphite grease. By "graphite grease" I don't mean.the kind you find in a hardware store with a tiny bit of graphite added to enhance slipperiness. No, this stuff was really loaded with graphite. It was probably more graphite than grease. Doing the job with a grease cup sounds like masochism to me. I have a "lubroclamp", a similar tool but for cars with gaiters and a round hole in the middle of the spring leaves for the grease to enter. I dedicated a cheap grease gun to it. Restoration Supply in California has real graphite grease if anyone needs some.

In the early 60s Fords used an odd offset center and a rim that was riveted or welded on upside down. You had to put the wheels on a tire machine upside down to mount tires. These wheels don't appear to be built that way. I am guessing 1965 or later. Drum brakes existed on Fords into the early 70s.

Most spark plugs are metric. Metric threads have been the norm on many American cars back into the 1930s, and existed on some American cars long before that. Most compression testers (and leakdown testers) come with one hose that has stepped 18mm and 14mm threads. That works for most cars. Many older Fords have 18mm and the 14mm fits almost everything else. The Pontiacs are metric. Your 37 olds is probably metric, but I would check. Look at the plugs for the 2 1989 Fords. Some plugs from that period have an unthreaded area between the threads and the tapered seat. If that is the case, a typical tester won't work because the threads on the tester wont reach the threads in the head. Snap-On testers (expensive) may have 3 adapters. Mine has a short 14mm, a long 14mm, and a short 18mm. In this case you use the same thread length as the existing speak plug, and partially threaded spark plugs are no problem. Whatever you buy, get extra Schrader valves if you can. The ones for tires look the same, and fit, but don't work worth sour owl manure. Really old cars that have pipe threads or American threads of some sort, or 10mm metric will probably require an adapter.

I have seen a lashup like that on some Delco distributors, but NOT going around a corner. The phenolic thing rubbed on the shaft. I think the intent was to reduce dwell variation due to bushing slop. Maybe it goes on the other side of the elbow.

Good question. I don't know. The author of this patent seems to think so. https://patents.google.com/patent/US20060264337A1/en

I have Castrol DOT4 in two of my cars. I used Castrol GT/LMA (also DOT4) until they stopped making it. The LMA stood for "Low Moisture Activity". Everyone took that with a grain of salt because DOT4 is a different chemical, and attracts water even worse than DOT3 does. Like DOT3, it starts absorbing moisture and degrading as soon as you break the seal on the can (if not sooner). The reason to use DOT4 is that it starts out with a higher boiling point than DOT3.

The hydraulic switch problem has been widely reported. Interestingly, Harley Davidson uses switches like that and have been using DOT5 for years. A switch version that will work with DOT5 must exist.

True enough, but more than likely an engine will still need to be located.

Yeah thats true. They change it. I no longer own anything with DOT5 in it, though I have owned several. The corrosion problems just disappear. No more shot bores, stuck pistons, etc. I wouldn't be terribly uncomfortable at 10 years on DOT5 based on systems I have opened up, but it is highly unlikely I would ever leave it in that long. DOT3/DOT4 on the other hand becomes a maintenance nightmare if you have a bunch of cars because it needs to be changed so often. 5 or 6 years? Not at my house. Once every 2 years is about the limit if you don't want a godawful mess in your cylinders, and I live in a dry climate. Once a year is better.

The reason you don't see DOT5 much in racing is that it is such a pain in the ass to bleed. Nobody has time for that trackside. But that is almost exactly what happens with DOT3. The damage, and the worst fluid, is always at the bottom of the cylinder. DOT5 does not chemically attract water like DOT3 does, and in old open-to-atmosphere systems the water problem is far less severe than it is with DOT3 because far less gets in. If you take apart a DOT5 system often (not always) there is no rust damage at all. The US Government has been using it for decades for exactly that reason. That is very good advice!

Do I see a hood prop in those photos? If so, where did you get it and how does it mount?

And although I have not taken a drivers test recently, I am sure it is still on the test here in Washington State as well. Is it the only way a bicyclist has to signal. Bicyclists are required to follow the same rules of the road as a car. It would be insane to send new drivers out not knowing what the signals mean.

One thing that never gets mentioned in threads like this is that the PCV vapors need to mix properly with the fuel/air coming out of the idle jets. Just connecting to a random manifold tap screws the fuel distribution all up and requires you to run the idle way too rich, with the attendant plug fouling, driveability issues, etc. Most modern carbs have a PCV port, and taking a close look at one will provide a good example of what to do if you need to make a plate to go under a carb that doesn't have a port. Ford used a separate plate under the carb in the late 60s and early 70s. Those are another good thing to look at to see what to do. Hint: usually the pcv dumps right under the idle jet or jets. Notice also that on the Ford PCV plates (and almost every other example of a pcv port) there is a big open cavity, and the only restriction is the last 1/8" or so right before it dumps in the throttle bore. If you ignore this detail the PCV will plug constantly. Doing PCV as a band-aid for blowby is likely to be disappointing. There is an absolute limit to how much air/vapor you can move before the carburetor cannot work properly anymore. There is never enough flow. PCV is, after all, a huge vacuum leak. No PCV system, even on a healthy engine, can move enough air to work 100% of the time. There are times that vapor will blow backwards out the breather cap, or breather filter, or whatever the system uses to let clean air into the engine. You might hit the limit for air movement even a little earlier by adding PCV to a carb that was not designed for it. The extra air coming through the PCV system means the throttle plate will be more closed than it was originally at the same idle speed. This means that the transfer ports in the idle system are going to be in the wrong place in the throttle bore relative to the throttle plates. The ported vacuum port for the distributor (if equipped) will also be wrong. Both will be late due to the more closed throttle. On some cars you won't notice a difference, on others it might be a big deal. You'll just have to try it and see. Pick a PCV valve for an engine about the same displacement or a little smaller. For a stock, smooth idling engine start with a valve originally specified for smooth idling engine that had a lot of vacuum at idle. At 323.5ci, I would probably start with a valve for a Chrysler 318, and go to something smaller if it is too much flow for the carburetor to still work correctly.

Thanks! It looks as though I will be bolting this now. I took it to a riveter, and he decided after having a close look that he could not do it with his current setup, as there is not enough room around the rivet heads. The thing that concerns me is that the holes are not necessarily perfectly round, nor the same exact size, as they were intended for rivets. The holes in the case were ever so slightly larger than the ring gear. I read in a Buick shop manual that this occurs because the case is softer steel than the ring. 5/16" bolts fit, but with a bit of clearance.

It is probably one pin. Hudson kept doing this all the way into the 50s If I am not mistaken. Yes, they are all lined up.

The wheels look amazing. Were you able to shoot the single stage black right over the shiny varnish? It seems like the stencil would be in the way if you tried to scuff it.

Who can rivet a differential ring gear? Car is a 36 Pontiac.

Good guess. This theatre had a sign about like that when it opened in 1918. It was on the side where the modern lighted sign is.

I don't know much more than that. I imagine you will eventually get answers as there are a lot of knowledgeable people here. Another possibility is the Ford FE forum: https://www.fordfe.com/332-428-ford-fe-engine-forum-f74182/

I'm guessing pre-neon, and that those holes are edison base sockets. Almost certain to have value if so.

That is a Ford "FE" engine, most likely from 1958 or 1959. It should be 332 or 352 cubic inches. The thermostat neck suggests it isn't any newer (1960 or 61 would have had a surge tank there instead of a thermostat neck, so would a Thunderbird all the way back to 58).

It's probably the pin that keeps the piston rings from turning.

a-HA! Ford Vedette (France)

What is that?

Hi lump, Do you have any wedges like this one? Or bolts or hardware like this? Thanks!