Bloo

I think its a 1941 Mercury.

Honestly, those hoses are tougher than you would believe. It's probably fine. I would still change it.

I think you should change it again. Once attached to the cylinder, you should be able to choose which "notch" to put the hose in at the frame/body/bracket end, to introduce a little twist to keep the hose out of harm's way.

Well I was a Driveability-Tuneup-Smog guy, so...... I would say any sort of underhood work on a front wheel drive car or a v8 powered truck or van with power steering, AC and all that. Engine work, transmissions, clutches, axle shafts, water pumps, alternators, starters, hoses, heads, radiators, belts, timing belts, sensor replacements, etc. Not having the suspension hanging is a huge hindrance. You are reaching around the hoist for almost every bolt. It will keep you completely away from some of them. The tire is also in the way. Yes, you can get pneumatic jacks to lift the frame or suspension (highly recommended if you are going with a 4-post), but then the car is even further away, and the ramp/support structure is right where your torso needs to be to reach many things. I am 6'3", and have long arms. More often than not I can't reach what I want to reach. A shorter person would be even more hobbled. 4-post hoists are the right tool for alignment, suspension, and exhaust work. They aren't horrible for oil change (but are way slower than a pit). I am with you about all those trips to the floor. I'm not even sure I could do it anymore on a regular basis. I look under my current jalopy, a 1936 Pontiac, and notice how it and many other prewar cars have almost everything you want to get to arranged right down the center, and I think to myself.. maybe a 4-poster wouldn't be that bad. I could just drive on. No stacking hoist parts to clear the running boards or anything like that. No crawling on the floor. It is tempting. But, to get any work done on more modern vehicles in a reasonable amount of time, offset 2-post is where its at. The old single-post hydraulic hoists weren't too bad either, but they require almost as much crawling around on the floor as a 2-post.

http://www.delcoremyhistory.com/Service Manuals/introdelcotron-1962.htm Make sure battery cables are good, and that chassis, engine, and battery are all grounded together. I don't remember exactly how that was done on a Corvair. I am a bit suspicious of the alternator diodes at this point. If testing the regulator doesn't get the desired result, IMHO either test the alternator with an oscilloscope, or take it off and take it to someone who can test for bad diodes (with an oscilloscope) using a test bench.

This^^ Actually tall vehicles exist in all eras. You just have to be careful about how far you put them up! To avoid walking around all scrunched up under the car, because you couldn't put it up all the way, get a tall enough hoist to do the work you intend to do. Ceiling clearance for taller hoists is another issue. I can certainly relate to not wanting to get down on my knees a lot to set the hoist. I might even pick a 4 poster today. On the other hand, If you intend to do general repair on anything even remotely modern, you want an offset 2-poster. It cannot be overstated how useless a 4 post hoist can be in that situation. You will find yourself working on the ground outside with jackstands because the hoist is in the way. When I was in the trade if someone had shuffled me into a bay with a 4-poster in it, I would have been looking for another job the same day.

IMHO If there is water getting in, there is a leak. If there is excessive condensation, there is still a leak. If it bothers you, fix the leak. Kitty litter in the trunk is just gonna make a helluva mess. I see you are in WA, where corrosive substances were never used on the roads back in the day. Nearly all serious rust damage to Washington cars appears where dirt or clay (kitty litter is clay) has built up. The dirt stays wet until the bottom falls out of whatever the dirt was sitting on. Why? Because the dirt stays wet all the time. I'm sure you have seen all the rear quarter panels on various cars this has happened to. The cleaner you make the area the less it will rust.

A "normal" manual steering box has a tight spot at the center. When adjusted properly there should be basically NO slack at the center, even a little drag. The service manual probably specifies how much drag. Off center, there should be slop. Once the "high spot" in the center is worn off, you can no longer adjust the slop out without getting tight spots off center. The only way I know of to check it is to assemble it with good bearings and bushings and try to adjust.

Well, the holidays are over and it's time for me to get back on this project. I could bolt it, but the holes are not perfect machined holes, and are also slightly oversize when compared to available bolts. Next week I will take it back to the machine shop to get the holes bored out to fit shoulder bolts, and then there will be no turning back. I'm just bumping the thread one more time to see if anyone knows of a shop who can rivet this in the traditional way. Thanks in advance.

Did the car originally have turn signals? There are 2 different ways 6V dual filament bulbs can be. If it had signals, and it has an offset pin as shown, I think you can believe that graphic. If it didn't, then your bulbs will probably not have an offset pin. In that case you just turn the bulb upside down if it is wrong. You could just try a bulb ahead of time. The socket is ground. Try hooking a wire to positive and see what filament lights. It should be obvious which is "bright", but if not, just make note of which one came on. The "bright" one is the thicker heavier filament. A turn signal switch of the sort that uses the brake light filaments also as turn signals works as follows: 1) Power connects to flasher. Flasher connects to turn signal switch. Wires exit switch and go to *each* turn signal. 2) Power connects to brake light switch. Brake light switch connects to turn signal switch. 3) When you turn, the turn signal switch disconnects *one* brakelight from the brakelight switch, and connects it to the flasher. 4) When you turn, the turn signal switch connects *one* front turn signal light to the flasher. 5) If you have 2 turn indicators on the dash or signal switch (right and left), these connect to the front signals. 6) If you have only one turn indicator on the dash or signal switch (the same bulb blinks for right or left), then the bulb connects to the flasher. This is what the third pin is for on a 6 volt flasher.

Here is a thread on Belgian Chevrolet Imperials around 1936. https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/20348/2.html I have seen a thread where it was noted that a long wheelbase Chevrolet from approximately 1936 had a factory Columbia 2-speed rear axle. This is never seen in US market Chevrolets. The car was in Switzerland IIRC. I do not recall if it was of Belgian origin. I can't seem to find the thread.

It's a 1960 Plymouth for sure. It could be a Belvedere, but the lack of any emblems saying so suggest maybe a Savoy.

IMHO if you need to ask that, don't take it all apart. Too many people never get done. It also puts off driving the car for years. Put some oil or diesel in the spark plug holes (squirt it over toward the actual cylinders) and let that soak for now. Get the factory lubrication chart and lubricate EVERYTHING, every single bearing, bushing and gearbox. Change the fluids. Change hoses, belts, rubber parts, wiring as necessary, etc. Drop the oil pan and clean it out. Service the brakes. Clean out the gas tank. Rebuild the carburetor. That all takes longer than you would think. I am assuming the body isn't falling apart. Old bodies like this are made of wood and skinned in steel. If the body wood is bad you may need to take it all apart. If you DO decide to completely restore it, there is plenty of good advice and encouragement for that here too. Welcome to the forum!

I agree with old-tank. Refresh the marks. I would get a paint pen in white or some bright color and mark them.

Are you sure the low beams aren't burned out? They do use a separate filament for low beam, so the fact that all four come on on high does not necessarily mean the bulbs are good. If it isn't the bulbs, the next most likely thing is the dimmer switch (on the floor). If it isn't the bulbs or the dimmer switch, then the wiring has to be broken somewhere between the dimmer switch and the front of the car. In that case, I would look around the bulkhead connector at the firewall.

That part cannot be repeated enough. It is just as valid when floating gears or double clutching as it is in the technique PFitz described. Shifting out of a gear, and shifting into the next gear are two distinct motions.

Because the gears grind!. There are actually at least 2 kinds of crash boxes. One kind actually slides the gears, and when shifting the drive teeth of the gears actually crash into each other and grind. The other type is called a "dog box" (still used today in racing). The dog box has some alternating teeth "dogs" on the edge of the gear (not the drive teeth) that engage when the gear is shifted in. These grind just like sliding gears if the RPMs do not match when the gear is shifted.

That technique is called "floating" the gears, and is used mainly on crashboxes. Once moving, you don't use the clutch much if at all. Double clutching, on the other hand, can be used with either a crashbox or a synchronized transmission. The technique is a little different with synchros, but the theory is exactly the same. If you do it right, the next gear will just slip in with no effort at all because the synchro isn't doing anything. The synchro doesn't even need to work.

That sounds to me almost like a technique used on synchronized transmissions, not crashboxes. Most older synchronized transmissions have an unsynchronized first gear (and also reverse). Typically on really old cars you did not leave the car in gear at a stoplight. The throwout bearing in the clutch was only intended for intermittent use, and may not have been a bearing at all. Starting out from a stoplight you need to depress the clutch, and then wait until the clutch disc and all the stuff in the transmission stops spinning before you can put the transmission in low gear. Waiting for it to stop can seem like an eternity at a stoplight in modern traffic. An alternate method is to "touch" some synchronized gear like second or third. You don't have to put it all the way in gear (but you can if you want). Touching the synchro stops the rotating parts and then you can go right into low. Touching a synchro doesn't abuse it, but it does use it. On cars where second is the first to wear out I usually touch high.

Interestingly when I was looking for pictures, initially all the ones I could find with the round emblem on the body line were Australian Chrysler Valiants, listed by series rather than year. One of those Australian cars said it was a 1962, had grille like a USA 1960 model, and the round side emblem (as in 1961 USA), and the "cats eye" taillights used on 1960-61 USA Valiants. (1962 USA Valiants had round taillights down lower, and a different grille). The Dodge version up here in the USA was called a "Lancer", and had a completely different looking front end, and round taillights up in the fins. The side trim was different too, and Colorspace's picture confirms it is not one of those. Another couple of interesting facts. "Valiant" was it's own marque (not Plymouth) in the USA in 1960 (only). Also there was a DeSoto variant in South Africa!

You might be able to get a shop to make you one from yardage? Keyston Bros. list "Elk" grain Landau Topping (Vinyl top material) in "Dark Royal Blue Metallic". I think they are wholesale only, but you would need to ask. Even if you couldn't buy directly any upholstery or auto trim shop ought to be able to get it. UpholsterySupplyOnline.com lists "Light Sapphire Blue" landau topping, also in "Elk" grain, and have it available for purchase online. Miami Corp list both of those, plus a "Medium Dark Royal Blue Metallic" in "Elk" and "Dark Adriatic Blue" in "Tuxedo" grain. I am not sure if any of these would meet your needs. Elk is a large coarse leather-look grain. Tuxedo is a small boxy grain that might remind you of a screen door. Acme Headliner traditionally had vinyl tops already made, but do not list anything on their website, it just says to contact them, so there is no way to tell if they have anything in blue. It might be worth a phone call. If you need absolutely authentic color and pattern (for a restoration) you might check with SMS auto fabrics and see if they have anything. "Correct" materials are their specialty. https://keystonbros.com/elk-dark-royal-blue-met-landau-topping.html https://upholsterysupplyonline.com/categories/Vinly-Top-Materials-%2d--Landau-Tops-Vinyls/ https://www.miamicorp.com/products/AUTO TOP FABRICS/LANDAU TOPPING/ELK.aspx https://www.miamicorp.com/products/AUTO TOP FABRICS/LANDAU TOPPING/TUXEDO.aspx http://www.acmeautoheadlining.com/ https://smsautofabrics.com/

That might not be 100% accurate, I can't really see enough of the car to tell. I know I have seen side trim like that on a USA (Plymouth) model, but the only pics I can find like that are 1962 Australian Chrysler Valiants. Any Valiant made from 1960-1962 would have had that roofline. Edit: It's a 1961 Plymouth Valiant V-200 if it is the USA model. If it's Aussie or built somewhere else, all bets are off...

I think its a 1962 Plymouth Valiant V-200.

"Harmful if swallowed" was already a thing in the early 70s though. Today the warning would go on for at least a couple of paragraphs. That label screams 1980s to me.

Leonard Evans Chrysler-Plymouth, Wenatchee WA, since about 1963. I couldn't find an early picture. Outside of the addition of some blue awnings, it looks very much like it did in the 60s and 70s. They dropped Chrysler in the late 70s, became a used car dealership, picked up Hyundai for a while in the 80s or 90s, dropped Hyundai and today are selling used cars again. The building is still the same blue and white it was decades ago. Those are even the same signs. The one on the left used to have another divider and had "Chrysler" and "Plymouth" where it says cars now. To this day, I see diecast license frames like this on late model cars. They even use same font as the ones from the 60s, the main difference being that these have painted lettering and the old ones were reflectorized.