1940Super

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About 1940Super

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    New South Wales Australia

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  1. Haven't had a chance to make any more progress on the car but I did solve one issue with the rear shocks. I thought it was odd that the arm on the right shock was longer then the arm on the left and it would put the shock link on an angle. The appearance of the shocks was exactly the same but i did notice the model number didn't match up to what was used on the 40 Buick. It's a 2105t which when I looked it up came off a 1950-51 Oldsmobile. I guess the person had the car before me thought it was a close enough swap. The arm on the Oldsmobile shock is nearly a full inch longer. I assume it had been previously rebuilt as there is welding of the arm to the spline. It seems that most shock re builders do this and the only reason why i could see welding would be necessary is if the spline was stripped, otherwise I don't see why they would do it. I was going to leave the Olds shock in place but then I noticed the seal started leaking so I thought i'll source another shock. I found one on US ebay and had it shipped straight to Apple Hydraulics, in a couple of days they rebuilt it and shipped it to me. It worked out to be the same price then if I had of used the last known shock re builder in this country. Anyway i'm very pleased with Apples work, glad to see they didn't put any welding on the arm. I had used a retired local to do the fronts and I was very pleased with the end result, next time I would get them all done by Apple.
  2. I ended up sanding a small amount off the outside diameter to the new bushes to get them started in housing then pressed them in. Another 40 Super owner told me he had floating bushes and said they are supposed to even wear (I'm not sure he ment by that). He pressed in tighter bushes after rebuilding his too.
  3. Steering column parts all cleaned and ready for reassembly and paint The turn signal lever has a stripped thread. After going over it with a die it does screw back in to a tight position but comes loose again as soon as the mechanism is operated. Is this a common problem? I want to clean out all the dust too, looks like it could be tricky to put back together if pulled apart so will probably just blow air through it
  4. Just curious to how you removed the eccentric sleeve? I had to make a little tool to pull it out. Did you tap your new bushes in or use a press?
  5. BOB'S had listed a 1937- 1955 pitman shaft kit https://bobsautomobilia.com/suspension-and-steering/steering-bushing-seal-kit-.-sbk-379/ I think I wasted my my on this as it looks like the only thing I'll use is the new seal. You are right that the top bush is too big. It looks like 41 and up had a bigger shaft at the top. As for bearings I cleaned them up and they seem okay to reuse. Not sure how to determine wear on the worm. It's all cleaned up now so I will post some photos before I put it back together. Another 40 owner I was talking to said his bushes were floating too. I'll have to check some of my books to see if I can find out any more.
  6. Bought some new pitman shaft bushes. The new bushes are tight on the outer wall and will need to be pressed in. The old ones are loose on the outer wall. The old bushes had a hole in the lube channel which suggest they are ment to move freely. Can't find anything in the manual, anybody have an answer?
  7. Yes which I why I ordered a replacement to go on column now while its pulled apart but It looks like I'll be reusing the old one. I would have liked to have ordered a new firewall insulator too but I would not like to see the shipping cost of one of them to Australia.
  8. https://www.rubbertherightway.com/1940-buick-restoration-parts-electric-60085-prd1.htm
  9. Those screws must screw to the pedal removable sheet metal? I'll check it mine has holes there
  10. While I bought it from CARS it's actually made by Steele Rubber. A big waste of money
  11. I was thinking off cutting straight through the compressed part of the nut and tube then sliding the rest of the nut off. I'm guessing it will only be about 3/16" off the pipe. My mind is elsewhere, I meant to say oil gauge. My fuel line has double flare fittings. Vac and oil are double compression. If Midland metal made there double compression elbows look the same as their inverted flare elbows then they'd look the same as my originals
  12. A few of the nut on my oil lines are stripped pretty bad and cant get tight enough to stop leaking. I'm thinking of cutting the old nut of the original steel lines and replacing the nuts. Do you think I can get away with the new nuts seating correctly in the old elbows and the adapter in the back of the temperature gauge? All the straight through adapters I will replace
  13. Where did you find that chart? I have 9 books related to 1940 Buicks and not one states interior paint detail except for trim and seat fabric
  14. I'm getting the steering column reading for painting. Does anyone know what the original brown colour is called? The upper darker brown is what someone painted the interior with. The lower lighter coloured brown is original. I actually think its a rather ugly colour but I want to keep everything original. Does anyone know how to correctly paint a steering column? I assume the brown colour down to the where the column enters the steering box. What about the steering box? Chassis black or natural cast iron? i think all the other components such as gear levers aluminium or plain steel? I ordered a steering column jacket from CARS(on right) but its very different to what was was there(on left). The colour is close to the original but it doesn't cover the hole in the firewall wall all the way. Why would the say this is the correct jacket for my model car?