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About Grizz

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  • Birthday 07/22/1983

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  1. What would be the factory color used for the engine? Can I get that in Krylon?
  2. Yeah that’s the way I was taught to find a draw. I thought about converting to 12v too but I want it to be as original as possible. If I start getting creative and changing stuff I’m afraid I won’t remember what all I’ve done and what I’ve got. Same reason my 67 c-30 has new drum brakes. The only way I could have put disc on the front was to swap out a front end from The years 72-86 I think? Getting off topic. I reckon I’ll just pull the fuse for now because a functioning radio is not a big priority for a car that’s not running and halfway torn apart. I do have a friend of a friend who rebuild
  3. Was the battery relocation strictly aesthetic or is there a greater purpose? Looks good!
  4. Haha. Was that a stupid question? So just pull the radio and start touching stuff with the test light?! This is my first rodeo for a lot of this stuff. Ordered a new coil today.
  5. I think I saw in Phil’s post he fixed his volume control knob? Is that the common thing here? How would one go about diagnosing the specific reason for the radio draw?
  6. Did some digging in my spare parts, found some crummy plug wires and another crummy ignition coil. So definitely ordering a coil when the treasury department approves my request. I had a gander under the distributor cap and was surprised at how new the condenser, cap and button look. Do you think a new condenser is still a good idea? After hooking the battery up I came out the next day to find it drained. After a recharge the multimeter reading is 6.34. I did a test to find the draw (pulling fuses) and it turns out to be the radio.... major bummer since The only remedy I know of for a draw com
  7. Does the air filter just sit in an oil bath? Or how you go about oiling it? I read an article about a while back but can’t remember
  8. Thanks Phil! Guess I better have a look under the distributor cap before I start ordering. I’m might as well get new plug wires, mine have seen better days. Any suggestions on where to shop? I found some stuff on parts rock auto, and a little more at parts geek. Got the starter boot off eBay like bloo suggestioned.
  9. Got the starter squared away. I took it to a shop. I told the fella that I had a solder gun and asked him if I could have done it with that. He disappeared to the back all the while laughing and shaking his head. So I guess that was a no? He came back about 7 minutes later warning me that it was still hot and there was no charge! I offered him a $20, only to have him disappear again. Thanks A&B! I cleaned and gapped the plugs. Squirted oil in the cylinders. No luck on the start (not surprised, car hasn’t run since the mid 70’s). First thing I checked was the coil. Coil is getting power bu
  10. Duly noted. Probably not the best situation for a learning experience huh?
  11. Ok, I got a friend with a solder gun. Or I was just going to buy one for about $40 at Home Depot. But your saying I need one of those BIG irons? I’d like to try to learn a new trick and I’m sure I could use it the future on various wiring jobs. I do know of a place that rebuilds starters. Might be cheaper to just take it in there. I’ve already managed to clean the old solder off pretty good so that might be a cheaper route to just carry the case in there?
  12. I think I figured it out! The bolt connecting the solenoid to the starter has come “un soldered” what would be the best method here. I haven’t done a whole lot of soldering before
  13. Soooo I know it’s been a while but I didn’t forget! Replaced brushes, solenoid and cleaned up all the starter parts. I’m waiting on the plunger boot in the mail. Looks fancy but still isn’t spinning! During the bench test I gave the clutch a little push and it would barely spin. I took the solenoid apart and noticed the plate and bolts are burned. I also noticed a wire that has been burned or soldered down. Is any of this normal? Thanks for the help!
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