Grizz

I found my shift rod. Also after cranking and cranking this thing over I discovered I DO NOT have the “00” battery cables. The ones I had were “1”. So I finally got around to ordering some proper cables. Cost about $45. Now I think the battery I had replaced is also dead. I guess because I’m just letting them sit on the charger for months at a time? I got a stronger crank on the new cables before the battery went completely dead. Also my ground cable looks like it’s burning up. Is this normal?

What does the throttle linkage look like? Mine is missing and I’d like to get the pedal hooked up because I can see the pump jets working. Still haven’t got it started. But I did find an ignition that matches the key I found in the ash tray. But now that I Think about it why would the previous owner swap out the one they had the key for?

You put the silicon on the stone guard?

It’s a pretty simple charger. It says 6v/12v. There is only one button to switch from STD to AGM. It would show the battery as “maintaining” but after I try and start it would show “bad battery/cables switched”. I definitely need to find an interstate dealer.

Do y’all have any tips for maintaining a 6v battery? Like anything different than you would a 12v? Finally got the new coil only to find that my Oreilly’s battery is dead. I was one month away from the warranty expiring so no money lost but just thinking I did something wrong? It lived on a 6v compatible charger up off of the floor and was full of water. Seems strange that it would fail so soon.

The other one I have has remanence of paint that is the same color as the engine. Not sure if that’s factory or not. The hydramatic trans. Is just grey I think?

What would be the factory color used for the engine? Can I get that in Krylon?

oooooo, what paint are you using?

This?

Yeah that’s the way I was taught to find a draw. I thought about converting to 12v too but I want it to be as original as possible. If I start getting creative and changing stuff I’m afraid I won’t remember what all I’ve done and what I’ve got. Same reason my 67 c-30 has new drum brakes. The only way I could have put disc on the front was to swap out a front end from The years 72-86 I think? Getting off topic. I reckon I’ll just pull the fuse for now because a functioning radio is not a big priority for a car that’s not running and halfway torn apart. I do have a friend of a friend who rebuilds old house radios so maybe he could learn me something down the road.

Was the battery relocation strictly aesthetic or is there a greater purpose? Looks good!

Haha. Was that a stupid question? So just pull the radio and start touching stuff with the test light?! This is my first rodeo for a lot of this stuff. Ordered a new coil today.

I think I saw in Phil’s post he fixed his volume control knob? Is that the common thing here? How would one go about diagnosing the specific reason for the radio draw?

Did some digging in my spare parts, found some crummy plug wires and another crummy ignition coil. So definitely ordering a coil when the treasury department approves my request. I had a gander under the distributor cap and was surprised at how new the condenser, cap and button look. Do you think a new condenser is still a good idea? After hooking the battery up I came out the next day to find it drained. After a recharge the multimeter reading is 6.34. I did a test to find the draw (pulling fuses) and it turns out to be the radio.... major bummer since The only remedy I know of for a draw coming from the radio is to replace the radio. I don’t want to do that...

Does the air filter just sit in an oil bath? Or how you go about oiling it? I read an article about a while back but can’t remember