Grizz

I found my shift rod. Also after cranking and cranking this thing over I discovered I DO NOT have the “00” battery cables. The ones I had were “1”. So I finally got around to ordering some proper cables. Cost about $45. Now I think the battery I had replaced is also dead. I guess because I’m just letting them sit on the charger for months at a time? I got a stronger crank on the new cables before the battery went completely dead. Also my ground cable looks like it’s burning up. Is this normal?

What does the throttle linkage look like? Mine is missing and I’d like to get the pedal hooked up because I can see the pump jets working. Still haven’t got it started. But I did find an ignition that matches the key I found in the ash tray. But now that I Think about it why would the previous owner swap out the one they had the key for?

You put the silicon on the stone guard?

It’s a pretty simple charger. It says 6v/12v. There is only one button to switch from STD to AGM. It would show the battery as “maintaining” but after I try and start it would show “bad battery/cables switched”. I definitely need to find an interstate dealer.

Do y’all have any tips for maintaining a 6v battery? Like anything different than you would a 12v? Finally got the new coil only to find that my Oreilly’s battery is dead. I was one month away from the warranty expiring so no money lost but just thinking I did something wrong? It lived on a 6v compatible charger up off of the floor and was full of water. Seems strange that it would fail so soon.

The other one I have has remanence of paint that is the same color as the engine. Not sure if that’s factory or not. The hydramatic trans. Is just grey I think?

What would be the factory color used for the engine? Can I get that in Krylon?

oooooo, what paint are you using?

This?

Yeah that’s the way I was taught to find a draw. I thought about converting to 12v too but I want it to be as original as possible. If I start getting creative and changing stuff I’m afraid I won’t remember what all I’ve done and what I’ve got. Same reason my 67 c-30 has new drum brakes. The only way I could have put disc on the front was to swap out a front end from The years 72-86 I think? Getting off topic. I reckon I’ll just pull the fuse for now because a functioning radio is not a big priority for a car that’s not running and halfway torn apart. I do have a friend of a friend who rebuilds old house radios so maybe he could learn me something down the road.

Was the battery relocation strictly aesthetic or is there a greater purpose? Looks good!

Haha. Was that a stupid question? So just pull the radio and start touching stuff with the test light?! This is my first rodeo for a lot of this stuff. Ordered a new coil today.

I think I saw in Phil’s post he fixed his volume control knob? Is that the common thing here? How would one go about diagnosing the specific reason for the radio draw?

Did some digging in my spare parts, found some crummy plug wires and another crummy ignition coil. So definitely ordering a coil when the treasury department approves my request. I had a gander under the distributor cap and was surprised at how new the condenser, cap and button look. Do you think a new condenser is still a good idea? After hooking the battery up I came out the next day to find it drained. After a recharge the multimeter reading is 6.34. I did a test to find the draw (pulling fuses) and it turns out to be the radio.... major bummer since The only remedy I know of for a draw coming from the radio is to replace the radio. I don’t want to do that...

Does the air filter just sit in an oil bath? Or how you go about oiling it? I read an article about a while back but can’t remember

Thanks Phil! Guess I better have a look under the distributor cap before I start ordering. I’m might as well get new plug wires, mine have seen better days. Any suggestions on where to shop? I found some stuff on parts rock auto, and a little more at parts geek. Got the starter boot off eBay like bloo suggestioned.

Got the starter squared away. I took it to a shop. I told the fella that I had a solder gun and asked him if I could have done it with that. He disappeared to the back all the while laughing and shaking his head. So I guess that was a no? He came back about 7 minutes later warning me that it was still hot and there was no charge! I offered him a $20, only to have him disappear again. Thanks A&B! I cleaned and gapped the plugs. Squirted oil in the cylinders. No luck on the start (not surprised, car hasn’t run since the mid 70’s). First thing I checked was the coil. Coil is getting power but the inside is corroded. So is the wire going to it. I removed the cap inside the coil to clean it and it’s cracked up pretty bad. Also didn’t know coils had oils?! So... I think I need a new coil for now? Unless there are better ideas? I figure if I can’t get one from the local parts store I’ll find one online. Anything specific I need to look for besides 6v. Thanks for the help. It was cool to see it cranking for The first time!

Duly noted. Probably not the best situation for a learning experience huh?

Ok, I got a friend with a solder gun. Or I was just going to buy one for about $40 at Home Depot. But your saying I need one of those BIG irons? I’d like to try to learn a new trick and I’m sure I could use it the future on various wiring jobs. I do know of a place that rebuilds starters. Might be cheaper to just take it in there. I’ve already managed to clean the old solder off pretty good so that might be a cheaper route to just carry the case in there?

I think I figured it out! The bolt connecting the solenoid to the starter has come “un soldered” what would be the best method here. I haven’t done a whole lot of soldering before

Soooo I know it’s been a while but I didn’t forget! Replaced brushes, solenoid and cleaned up all the starter parts. I’m waiting on the plunger boot in the mail. Looks fancy but still isn’t spinning! During the bench test I gave the clutch a little push and it would barely spin. I took the solenoid apart and noticed the plate and bolts are burned. I also noticed a wire that has been burned or soldered down. Is any of this normal? Thanks for the help!

Thanks to all who responded so quick. So I went out this morning before taking the kids to school and put the starter on the battery for a bench test and got nothing. Checked the voltage on the new battery and it was 0.0. Put the battery on my new 6v compatible charger, came back a few hours later and it indicated bad battery. Got a replacement this afternoon and the bench test activated the plunger and barely moved the gear. So I disassembled. Bloo I see what your saying about turning those bolts and I think your right. One looked ok, but the other was pretty bad (see pictures) In fact everything was caked with copper shavings and grease. The brushes have been kinda flattened out a chipped away. Everything looks burned up in general. I want to take my time with thing and get it looking fresh inside and out. I’m thinking a bench grinder with a wire brush wheel? I read in the manual to steer clear of grease dissolving chemical on certain areas but are there any other recommendations? I briefly looked on the internet for a rebuild kit. Do they make those? Can I buy a new rubber boot for the plunger? Also to answer Gary, both cables are marked 1 gauge. Should I invest in new cables then? If what I have is sufficient I might want to get new ones anyway for aesthetic reasons? Thanks for all the help! Enjoy some pictures....

It’s taken me a while to get to the car but I think I’ve got all the wires And contacts cleaned and somewhat figured out. They were totally covered in grime and I had to cut back the electrical tape to expose the tracers. So far I’ve got the ignition and starter switch to the coil, and starter and the generator to the voltage reg. I put in a new 6v battery And hooked up a remote starter switch. The plunger activated but the drive gear did not spin. Just one big “KA-chunk”. I’ve fixed bike starters in the past by simply replacing the plunger? Does this sound right? I removed the starter and discovered this cover band (very cool, first time I’ve worked with a starter this old) there was all kinds of copper(?) and grease debris so my next step will be to clean this thing according to my manual. Am I doing this right?! Will I be able to start this thing by gravity feeding the carburetor? Also can my 12v charger maintain this new battery while it sits or do I need to get a 6v compatible charger? I know it’s a lot of questions. Forgive my ignorance. Spring is a long way Away but this chicken has already hatched. Here’s some pics for s’s and g’s. Any patient advice will be greatly appreciated.

ok good to know about the keys. Where do I get new ones? I’d need to buy the locks and ignition too? The motor can be turned by hand using the fan and my assistant did the oil in the plugs February of last year. Plugs are back in but it’s only had a car port and a tarp for cover. Maybe I should give them another round?

Nice! That’s what I’m talking about! I have a gravity tank I made for the bikes. I didn’t even think about using it for this. This is probably a stupid question but What about oil? Should I remove and inspect the pan or just fill er up? I plan on using a remote starter button that hooks straight to the starter but out of all these boxes of parts I’ve found zero keys. Do I need separate keys for the ignition and doors?