Raffles

hello Jeep - is the motor still available?

Just had a fellow on another forum suggest installing a PCV valve - he has installed one on his flathead where the crank exhaust was. He very kindly provided a photo of his rig. Anyone else ever done this to their old engine?

Thanks to all for this very interesting and informative discussion. I am particularly interested in the comments about "miracle in a can" oil additives that actually work. When I took the car to the shop a veteran mechanic looked it over and told me that the occasional billows of smoke emitted from the road pipe of the crank exhaust were not excessive and that he did not think that a compression test was warranted because the engine runs very smoothly. He suggested that the pistons and/or cylinders had probably become worn and somewhat tapered and that this and carbon build up caused by low speed travel had probably cause the rings to become clogged and not as effective as they should be -resulting in blow-by. The car never emits a blue cloud from the exhaust pipe when I drive it - it just emits a moderate billow of smoke from the crank exhaust road pipe when I come to a stop at a red light - it dissipates fairly quickly- but it is embarrassing and does leave a burning oil smell that lingers and is not pleasant for passengers or bystanders. however, when I start the car in the garage and let it warm up for a few minutes, it leaves a patch of dry, black soot on the garage pad. The soot is dry and thick, similar in thickness and texture to what you would get from a wood burning fire - it really is amazing that the car doesn't emit a blue cloud - considering the amount of soot that it produces. I asked the mechanic if this indicated that the fuel mixture was too rich - but when he inspected the tailpipe he observed that the soot had curled back at the circumference of the end of the pipe - like a very faint mushroom head - and this lead him to conclude that it was definitely oil that was producing the soot. As to the rate of oil consumption - it is unnoticeable in normal city driving - but the oil appears pitch black on the dipstick shortly after it is changed Local guys here have recommended that I use a fuel additive called "Rislone" and then Drive the car at 60 MPH for a couple of hours to see if that solves my problems. Now that the roads are ice covered here and will be until April at least, I will probably have to wait till then to try this out.

Not sure if the internal Specs for the "IND" straight 8 engine are the same as they are for the "C" straight 8 engine in terms of bore, stroke, etc. I know from past experience that the Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth flat six manufactured in the US has a different bore,stroke and block length from the "IND" and Canadian Chrysler brands flat six. Therefore I am unsure if crank is interchangeable between "IND" and "C" straight 8.

Thanks Roger - it's already 10 degrees below zero with snow on the ground here so we are going to have a log long winter. Another reason that I was looking for a new motor is that the one in my car is an industrial Chrysler with a serial number prefix of "IND" - probably came out of some heavy equipment or stationary application. I would like to get a factory engine.

I have a 1947 Chrysler New Yorker that is starting to show an alarming level of blow by. Rather than waiting until it completely packs it in and leaves me to scramble and miss a season or two of driving, I want to line up a rebuilt engine now. I have a line on a 1949 323.5 Straight 8 - vendor says that it is standard bore capable of rebuild. I believe that pistons etc. are available but what about a crankshaft -if it needs one? Also, if anyone knows of a Chrysler straight 8 already re-built please let me know!

Hello Don in Missouri - is this engine still available?