Bloo

While the drums are off, peel the rubber dust covers on the cylinders back, and see what you see. It might be time to hone them out and put new cups in.

Those are called "Go No-Go" gauges. They make the "Go No-Go" method of adjusting valve tappets easier. If the spec is .017, you would use a .016/.018 gauge, the first part slides in easy and the other part should stop. I do it with standard feeler gauges, but the type shown in JohnD1956's link are much faster.

And be aware that ebay is also full of R-12 "substitutes" with similar names. Those are worth less (or maybe wortheless). Read closely and be sure you know what you are looking at.

It was the last one!, at least in full size American cars. Mechanix Illustrated ran an article when it was new.

Does it have roll up windows? It might be the "roadster", and if so, it's pretty rare. It has something like a window on the passenger side, but I don't see a slot in the top of the door, nor any window cranks.

You will find people who will tell you that works. I don't believe it. Someone suggested it to me years ago, and I put some on a piece of steel, let it cure, and then dropped it into a bottle of gasoline. After 2 days it was soft and gooey. I could stick my fingernail in it and sort of push it around.

I'll bet wheel lugs will eventually solve it. What gets 7 wheel lugs? Even big Locomobiles have 6. Ok, a Packard Twin 6 has 8, but that still isn't 7..... I was also wondering about the white tires. Was 1914 about the last? I was thinking 1916, but I really don't know..

Those "threaded sleeve" tubing nuts are hard to find, but available. I would try like crazy to save the original. It does look a little different than current ones. You would really want to look at the threads and angle before replacing it, just to make sure. I would cut off the tiny bit of tubing sticking out the end, as it will be slightly larger. These tubing nuts bite into the tubing a little bit, so the tubing becomes a smaller diameter right where the flare end of the nut is. You'll have to get rid of that end bit to get the tubing nut off. What size is your tubing? Midland Metals makes those nuts, and Blackhawk Supply has them in at least 3 sizes. I bought 5/16" for my Pontiac fuel lines.

I'm not knocking that, but you can get by just fine with soft solder on a gas tank, that is what a radiator shop would do. The fumes are a problem. It makes me nervous as hell. First choice back in the day was to take it to the radiator shop. They can boil it out and get rid of the gasoline scum that is the source of the fumes and of course they are all ready with solder and torches too. The trouble is, there aren't many radiator shops left. Another old method it to fill the tank with CO2. You leave a little bit of flow to make sure there is no oxygen in the tank. IIRC the CO2 is heavier than air, so you want the opening at the top. Yet another way is to fill the tank with water, with the damaged area at the top just barely out of the water. You can't have the water screwing up your solder job, but the tank really needs to be almost completely full, so that there isn't room for fumes. Any fumes that exist are going to burn. Don't blow yourself up. I recommend talking someone else into doing it.

Voltage regulators are generally temperature compensated, so it varies, but 14.2 is about exactly what you see on older cars. 14.7 is more like it on anything modern. GM was one of the first to turn up the heat in the mid 70s when the "freedom battery" came along, European cars were some of the last, with quite a few of the German, Italian. and French ones still running down around 14.2 in the mid 90s. Of course that is a rash generalization, and there are probably a bunch of exceptions.

No. It probably isn't the full 6 volts. Tank is full now? Disconnect the sending unit, and measure Ohms from the terminal on the sending unit to ground. If it is 30 ohms or more, the problem is not in the tank. If it is something less, like 15 Ohms or so, the trouble is still in the tank.

Agreed. Real silver solder by the way, meaning hard solder, to fix the groove, not some soft wire plumbing solder with a little silver in it.

I don't really have much to help with, but thank you for posting pics of the engine. It is generally understood that when Buick stopped making 6 cylinders, the tooling went to GMC, and that early GMC OHV sixes are very similar to Buick. A few months ago, pictures were circulating of a cab similar or possibly exactly like yours, looking for identification. It was in rather poor condition, having been outside for a long time. It was allegedly a 1932, though there was not much material with which to identify it. Someone on the HAMB bought it, and I am not sure what happened to it after that. I think it was located in Arkansas. In the quest for identification of that cab a picture of a restored one was posted. Possibly yours? As far as I know, only those two have surfaced. If the restored cab was not yours, then that makes 3 instead of 2. I have reposted all the pictures I have here: https://imgur.com/a/LQxZYkV GMC engines get a little murky. In an ad that shows the cab among a bunch of trucks, they list engines of 221, 257, 331, 400. 468, 525, 616, and 707 cubic inches. All appear to be OHV. They can't all be the Buick, but I'll bet the 221 is. The funny thing is, If they had this whole line of engines in production, why, just a couple years later were they using Oldsmobile (and in one or two cases Pontiac) flathead sixes in their trucks? It is also unclear, to me anyway, if the "modern" GMC OHV 6 of the late 40s and early 50s owes anything to the old Buick design. Anyway, I hope you get better, more helpful responses than mine. I suspect you will as there are folks around here who have restored 6 cylinder Buicks.

You are sure it isn't cracked? If it were me, I would boil that case out in a parts washer for a long time, or soak it in MEK, or both, and then, once completely dry, play a propane torch on it and see if any more oil bubbles up. Repeat until the defect is truly clean. Then I would soak the area in green (wicking) loctite, or paint the inside with glyptal, or maybe both. You eliminated the solenoid, and it didn't fix it. The trouble must not be with the solenoid. what could they have possibly done to the internal parts of this unit during the conversion that could not be done to the internal parts from another unit? Many of these units share internal parts. I would measure that leaky case carefully to make absolutely sure it is not also mis-machined. There has to be a way.....

The shop in the link has straightened steel wheels for me.

Good question.... I'm kind of surprised it doesn't have '35 ford wires. Were wood wheels even a thing on Model A Fords? I don't think I have ever seen one.

I don't know about a body shop, but any good wheel shop should be able to do it. I like this one (located in Bellevue, WA) https://www.soundwheelworks.com/

Hupmobile 20?

An automatic? Behind that? These aren't fast cars in the first place. My gut feeling is that it is a bad idea. If it were me, and if the car were too slow in high, I would try to find a 3 speed overdrive for it. In those years it probably has to come from a DeSoto or Chrysler, I think. I believe a company called "Edgy" makes speed parts for these engines. 3x2 is going to be WAY too much carburetor. Ask over here: http://p15-d24.com/ Those guys really know the Mopar flathead 6, and will probably also know where to get the adapter for the 700-r4 if that is what you are set on. Welcome to the forum!

Get the key fixed first. Then polarize your generator. I don't remember how exactly to do that on that particular system. You need a shop manual. If you can't afford one, look for something published online. Any Ford, Mercury, or Edsel manual from that period (from about 1958 until Ford stopped using generators) will work. The instructions for polarizing the generator will be the same. Once you have accomplished that, put a voltmeter (a cheap/free harbor freight DMM will do if you don't already have something) across the battery terminals and rev the engine up to 2000 rpm. The voltage should be higher than 12.6 if it is charging, and probably should be around 14 volts. The charging system light on the dash should be out. One more thing, with the key on, and the engine not started yet, the generator light should be on. If it is burned out, replace it. It might be necessary for the system to work. I had a 61 Ford that used the same setup you have, but it was a long time ago. The generator and regulator were absolutely reliable, and kept my battery up even in the dead of winter. It used to get way down below 0 deg F here in those days. The car had lots of other problems, but always started in the cold. It is normal for the generator to not charge much if at all with the engine idling. It needs to be revved up a little. You just need to not run a bunch of electrical stuff with the car idling for long periods of time, and you will be fine. Drive it! Have fun, and welcome to the forum. EDIT: there's a 1958 Ford shop manual on OldCarManualProject: http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Ford/1958/Service/ You might find it useful for other things in addition to the generator. There is detailed generator troubleshooting information in section 8, but polarize it first, and see if it works. Polarizing is on page 8-9 http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Ford/1958/Service/08/Group8/08-009.html

If the float is plastic (probably) ALWAYS replace it when the carb is torn down.

Or, you could put in a Cosworth BDA.....

Note that the chart is based on a "maximum voltage loss of 1/2v". You don't want anything close to that much loss in a headlight circuit or a charging circuit. It cant hurt to go a little bigger.

Input Shaft = Pilot Shaft = Main Drive Gear

On a car that shares a bulb between the turn signals and brake lights, this is a common problem. Wiggle your turn signal stalk and it will probably come back. The most likely problem is the turn signal switch. Heres how it works: The brake light circuit runs through the turn signal switch. When you turn on a signal, one set of contacts connects a front signal to the flasher, and another set DISCONNECTS one brake light bulb and connects it to the flasher. It should connect that bulb back to the brakelights when the turn signal cancels, but don't bet on it with an old switch.