EmTee

I'll throw @Bhigdog under the bus here! I think he also has a '55 Century soft-top as well, so maybe he can identify the exact bolt that you need. I'll go further and say that he also has the wherewithal to fabricate a replacement if he has the opportunity and time to spend. Maybe you can PM him and at least get the details on what the bolt needs to look like, assuming his car is readily accessible. Sorry, Bob - feel free to tell me to go and "mind my own business"! -Tim

Looking really good Keith -- what a transformation!

The temperature sensor is typically just a temperature-sensitive resistor (thermistor). From the schematic above, it looks like this sensor contains both a switch (normally open) for an indicator (HOT) light and a temperature-sensitive resistor (thermistor) for an analog gauge. You can confirm this with hypothesis with an Ohm meter. One pin should show continuity (some number of Ohms) with the sensor body when cold (connect to gauge). The other pin should be open (infinite resistance) when cold (connect to HOT indicator light (if there is one; otherwise leave disconnected).

Using "895" wheels on a pre-1970 drum brake application will require a minimum spacer width of 1/4". That's what was on my '67 when i bought it. Even then, the back of the wheel 'kissed' the aluminum front brake fins and the lug nuts lose 1/4" of thread engagement. They also do look somewhat different with that offset, but you probably wouldn't really notice unless you saw them side-by-side. In the end, I wound-up buying a set of original 1967 "802" wheels and I sold the "895" wheels. Everything fits as designed - no spacers.

Is it beyond repair? Could you just have the flange re-welded to the pipe?

Sorry to hear that. (You know I was just kidding you based on your earlier post.) I'm in the same boat as you (no more room at the inn) - but it's still fun to look!

Me too. It really seems to make the biggest visual difference with a finish that has been neglected. That said, even on a well-maintained finish it's good to know that the surface is clean and you're not grinding contaminants deeper into the paint with your DA polisher.

That dashboard is a work of art!

@dibarlaw, how are those tremors now...?

I like it - but maybe at a 50% discount...

If "C pillar" refers to the cross-section of the 4-post leg sections, then my 4-post Direct Lift falls into that category. All I can say is that I had my lift installed in 2018 and I marked the floor where each leg stood. When I look at the floor today I can verify that nothing has moved. My lift is sitting on a level, 5" fiber-reinforced concrete floor.

I have gone to the local auto finisher supply and bought a pint of paint they mix to the factory color. For additional charge they can put that into aerosol spray cans for you. The ones I have used all worked well and typically have a nice fan-spray nozzle.

Are you talking about the bottom slide lever? I think that one is cable controlled. Check around the heater box under the dash and on the firewall. I don't know without looking at the shop manual where the far end of the cable attaches. Does the lever feel like it is doing anything (i.e., is there some resistance)?

I'd be leery of putting anything like a sealant over a fresh paint job. I'd probably wait 3 to 6 months before doing anything.

About 6 tanks for me courtesy of the Emerald Ash Borer...

I don't think you'd see any visible difference aside from the color of the paint on the webbing. Since the road wheels were only offered on the Wildcat in '64, you'd probably want to use the Wildcat center caps, rather than the '65's Riviera cap.

I have the same feeling about my '67. Powerful and comfortable highway cruiser.

Sticky (i.e., dirty) regulator contact? Worn generator brushes/sticky brush holder? I'd probably start by by carefully running a contact file through the regulator contacts once or twice, followed by a piece of paper or thin cardboard soaked with contact cleaner. If it persists I'd try to get a look at the generator brushes, maybe with a dental mirror & flashlight; otherwise remove and inspect.

If this was the first drive after sitting for a prolonged period, maybe a sticky valve or two? Did you hear any unusual 'ticking' while it was misbehaving? I'd add some Rislone and drive another 100 miles before panicking...

That's probably what I'd wind-up doing as well. If there's a shop who can fix it, I'd do it now rather than waiting until I need it later. The local repair option may be unavailable or certainly more expensive later. Besides, given that your screen name begins with "TA", do you really think this will be your last one...

For the record, if I bought this car it would be to preserve it as-is. My 'thought experiment' was simply acknowledging how if the appearance was left alone (with stock wheels) this could be the ultimate 'sleeper'. And to take the ruse one step further, one could build a 496 torque monster and disguise it to appear as a stock 396...

Now, that would be blasphemy!

Basic transportation in 1966. Condition appears to be remarkable! My 'dark side' wants to bring it home, put the original wheels on it and drop a 427 into it...

Found these: https://markhammetals.com/copper-vs-aluminum-which-is-the-better-conductor-of-heat/ https://www.alusat.com/conductor-aluminum-or-copper/ Thermal performance of copper is better and coefficient of expansion is less, so I'd expect joints to last longer. Aluminum is less expensive, but if the part is engineered properly I wouldn't expect that you'd notice any difference in heater performance. I think more aluminum pieces show up today because of cost and the fact that modern antifreeze additive packages are better able to handle the dissimilar metal corrosion problem. If it were me, I'd probably go with a copper core if given a choice, however, I don't think I'd loose any sleep if all I could find was aluminum. What was wrong with the original one? Could it be reconditioned (assuming it was copper)?