telriv

Chris, Just pick one, anyone. If there's something wrong with it exchange it. It's not that they are that costly & are easy to change. Maybe ask for a recommendation from a trans. shop. Tom T.

The other belts in the pic to the right are confusing the subject. Tom T.

Yes Mark. Tom T.

The original larger canister modulator CANNOT be adjusted. A replacement smaller one can. They are cheap. Just buy one. Tom T.

I'm a little surprised NO ONE has tried a little heat. Tom T.

Mark, For the rear a jack & a of couple jack stands are nec. Jack by using the rear pumpkin & put the stands under the frame where the lower control arm attaches to the frame towards the front. Easier to remove both rear tires. Let the jack down until the shocks are at full extension then jack up one/two pumps to lessen tension.. Dis-connect the bottom of shocks & remove. IF I remember correctly a 5/8ths. & 11/16ths. wrenches. Now remove the bolts & the shocks will extend to full length. Now let the rear end down & the rear will be hanging by the springs. Install a piece of 2x4 between the springs & the rear end housing. This helps to keep the spring from moving & makes for easier bolt up when done doing what's nec. Keep a little tension on the rear with the jack. Looks like the rear springs are new so you shouldn't need any penetrating lube. Loosen the lower bolt & nut which is 3/4". Not nec. to remove just loosen a couple turns. The top bolt is harder to get to as you need to go though the middle of the spring. A 3/4" socket, universal & extension will do the trick. Again not nec to remove only loosen. Now you should be ale to turn the springs into the nec. positions by using the jack to find a neutral position. I feel by orientating the rear springs will NOT take care of the sag. Should be NO PROBLEM doing this in the driveway. IF it's hot outside use pieces of 3/4" plywood to put under the jack stand legs to keep them from sinking into the asphalt. Hope this helps. The rear is MUCH EAISER than the front. I can walk you through this also but consult the chassis manual. When it comes time I can give you some tips to make the job easier. Tom T. Tom T.

I myself haven't tried it BUT maybe a heat gun to soften the glue??? Don't forget the aluminum is attached to plastic don't want to start melting the plastic. Tom T.

I still say the top of the spring is not orientated correctly. No need to go to a shop for the rear just dis-connect the bottom of the shocks & let the rear end hang down, which will relieve some pressure on the springs, then you should be able to rotate the springs into their proper position if needed. Again, look at the chassis manual. Tom T.

Much easier with two. Tom T.

A '56 Chev hood, grille & bumper on a '65 Riv. Blaspheme. Tom T.

No brakes is as bad as having NO steering. Drove a vehicle someone had swapped in a rack & pinion set-up & forgot to tighten the universal joint set screws on two universal joints. Tom T.

No holes need to be cut doing it the way I do it. Once measured & cut takes about 30 minutes. Tom T.

IF your vinyl/interior panela are in good shape what I've done on warped panels is to use a thin piece of Formica. Slightly dampen the warped panel with water & use 1/2" or thicker plywood & cement/concrete blocks to flatten it out. Once totally dry, can use a heat gun to speed up the process, coat both sides with contact cement & when ready stick them together then using cement/concrete blocks to hold them down/together until dried. Usually comes out pretty good with very little added thickness & the Formica is waterproof. Tom T.

20K for paint is on a vehicle with a good base to start with. Todays paints can run into a thousand + for a gallon. Tom T.

Before you even consider trying to tackle a rough idle problem you will need to start with the basics. Nails were known for the rougher than normal idle characters because of the poor breathing potential which the cam had to make up the problem. The reason Buck flipped between the 109* & the 114* cams. 114* was to be a smoother idling cam over 109* which was better suited for more top end performance. Those T/A cams are usually not what is advertised. Start checking & you will see what I'm talking about, especially lobe lifts. Take the valve lift & divide it into 1.6 & it will give you a lobe lift. Tom T.

IF the right front spring is not orientated into it's pocket properly it would allow the right front to be higher & consequently affect the left rear. Check the chassis manual for proper orientation on the front springs. There IS a certain way they are supposed to be orientated. Same with the rear. The top end tag is supposed to be at a certain orientation also. I have seen this MANY times over the years. Tom T.

I could go on for days about the ACTUAL lift at the valve. ANYTHING above a .250" lobe lift of the cam lobe it gets to be you have to the point of 1.2-1 at the valve at best or less. Sometimes that is a push. .250" lobe lift at 1.6 is supposed to be .400" if when measured at the valve is ACTUALLY .400". Add .050" to the lobe lift you would assume another .140" at the valve. In actuality you MAY have an additional .020" give or take when measured at the valve taken into consideration of ALL the variables. Until you ACTUALLY start measuring for yourself at the valve you will NEVER see what the actual diff. is. Tom T.

Another thing. A Mopar thermostat housing is almost a bolt-on replacement & is cast iron both big block or small block. NEVER have another problem with an aluminum housing. Tom T.

One of the things I do to get a better seal is to use a .060" inner valve spring shim to fit inside the timing case cover (the I.D. is the same) to put a little more pressure on the O-ring seal to prevent future coolant leaks. I've even used 2 O-rings in extremely corroded covers. Takes a couple clamps to bring them together tight enough but does work. Tom T.

Loosen up the master cylinder hold down bolts 1 1/2 turns each, drive it to see IF the symtoms return. IF they don't then the pushrod is too far into the master & needs to be adjusted. Tom T.

He got that from ME MANY years ago. Tom T.

There's one little clip that goes around the dipstick tube to hold the line in place on the dipstick. Most are missing. Tom T.

That rubber boot is to have some insulation inside to filter the air going into the rear of the booster to keep out dust & debris. Tom T.

The GS resonators had a 2 1/4" inlet to match the diameter of the exhaust pipe as opposed to a 2" inlet of the standard resonator. The rest of the resonator was EXACTLY the same between the two. Tom T.

Where you going to put it Bob??? Tom T.