telriv

Kev, Most Buick AFB's didn't have a number on them ONLY a blank colored tag denoting what I don't remember. I have a few but I really don't want to part with them as you may well know I DO rebuild AFB's. Tom T.

The press had to be used because it appears you did NOT remove the steel sleeves. Steel sleeves are NOT required or suggested to be used with the "Poly" bushings. Could be why they are now squeaking because they are too tight. Just my observation. Tom T.

Tim, $50.00+ shipping. Tom T.

The splines are NOT lined up properly. I have Brand New complete rag joints for the "808" boxes for the full size cars. Tom T.

ANY Swaybar has NO action other than in the center. Makes NO diff. how long the side bars are which has NOTHING to do with the center twist. Do a search to find out HOW a Swaybar works. Go to Addco's site. Tom T.

1st. off you have to start somewhere. PBlaster & a big hammer. Usually the right hand bolt comes out fairly easy. It's the left side bolt that's usually the hassle. What I do & have told MANY others the same method. Loosen the nuts on both bolts. Soak them with penetrant of some kind. Then hit the head, NOT the nuts, of the bolts with the big hammer & hard. What this does is set up a vibration that will let the penetrant slowly work it's way between the bolt & the inner steel sleeve. You will do this every couple of hours. What you don't want is the inner sleeve tearing away from the inner bushing as then it becomes a nightmare to separate. Once the bolt is out, IF you are replacing with Poly bushings, as the steel sleeve is no longer needed, you remove the blade from the hacksaw& put it inside the bar & cut through the steel sleeve. Don't cut too much as you don't want to give the bar a place to break. Just enough to be able the remove the steel sleeve with a hammer/screwdriver. Install the new bushings with lube supplied & torque to specs. Hope this helps the MANY that need to do this. Don't get frustrated as some take MUCH MORE time than others because of rusrt/corrosion. Tom T.

HEAT Don't strip the nut Tom T.

IF your looking for fast starts after sitting for some time that's the wrong thing to do in my mind. Your starting an engine that has had no (zero) oil pressure for awhile & your starting the engine "Dry". What I do is NOT pump the gas pedal because I don't want an instant start. I crank the engine over for 15 seconds at a time until the oil pressure gauge starts to move, mechanical gauge, then start the engine. Might take 3-5 times Some say that your wearing out the starter by doing such. In my mind it's easier to rebuild/replace the starter than it is to drop the oil pan & replace bearings along with other damage that dry starts cause. Just my thoughts on the electric fuel pump assist. Tom T.

MY rear bars have no bushings or links to wear out. Been in my Riv. for 50+ years with NO problems whatsoever. No Squeaks, rattles, loose bolts or otherwise. I sure wish some would chime in with their experiences with my rear bar. Tom T.

Just to let everyone know I have been dealing with Diamondback for about 20 years now. In this time anytime there was any kind of problem it was resolved to customers/my satisfaction. Tom T.

No one, including the nay Sayers, has any idea of the benefits WITHOUT the harshness of ride. The ONLY way anyone will know is to go for a ride in a 1st. Gen so equipped. Tom T.

AND EVEN BETTER add my sway bars front & rear. NOW you won't believe the sure footedness with NO advise effects on ride. Then to improve upon that one of my fast ratio steering boxes. Tom T.

No need for a tach as you can feel it & hear it IF things are adjusted properly. Everyone is worried about the torque of the "Nail" over powering the converter. Buick started with the "Switch Pitch" feature in '55, which even works in reverse, so by '63 it was pretty well perfected. Just my thoughts again. Tom T.

That brown wire has a BS crimp on connector. Bad right there & the terminal is rusty to boot. Tom T.

I can't off the top of my head remembered how many of the drip rail moldings I have removed & replaced with NO damage. Once you learn it's fairly easy. Go to a scrap yard/recycling center & do a little practice 1st. Just my thoughts for the subject at hand. Tom T.

To myself the biggest problem is most don't understand how the hot air choke system functions. IF the connections are sealed properly you should feel vacuum at the fresh air intake at the rear top right of the carb. Tom T.

IF it's fast it's usually not as good. Do the proper /judogis diagnostics to come up with the proper solution. Tom T.

Russ/Matt get theirs from T/A which are about 3-4 times the thickness of the originals. Tom T.

That's because the debris inside them wears them out of tolerance. Tom T.

Do not try & pry the slots!!! They WILL break. Hold the end of the cable with a pair of needle nose vice grips & push the pinch portion away with the flat blade screwdriver. A little force is needed. Tom T.

Yes sir. Tom T.

I don't care where or from whom you may get lifters. They ALL have to come apart to clean them to get the debris out of them. Much easier to do now than later. Tom T.

455's DON'T have French locks. The manifold bolts to the head with NO gasket. The pipe connect to the manifold has a "Bell" shape to it & also does NOT require a gasket. Tom T.

Panhard/track bar have NOTHING to do with suspension height. Tom T.

When the lower control arm is lowered as far as it can be there will be little tension left on the spring & it will "pop" out with little to no danger. Remove the sway bar link 1st. to get as much movement from the lower control arm as possible. Tom T.