Eric's.64.Superwildcat

Interesting. Thanks for taking the time to do that.

What color is your interior and what shape is your current dash pad in? Could you share a photo?

To follow up on the felt for the vent diffuser: You can make your own from black felt from a craft store. I raided my daughter's crafts bin for my material and it worked out perfectly.

I guess this is what I was thinking of. I should have said access 'plug' rather than panel. This plug is in my driver's side wheel well and I have a vague recollection that it allows access to one of the three mounting bolts via a long socket and extender. I didn't use this method. I simply removed the fender. Please note that my example is from a '64. I'm assuming it is the same as the '65, but I'm not sure.

It's really strange you don't have the access panel. If that's the case it would seem that you would need to pull the fender, which is extremely easy. That's the method I used even though I *do* have the access panel. If your wiper is slow you'll also want to ensure it is getting the proper voltage at the connector and that the connection isn't corroded.

They look fantastic. I'll be at the front of the line for the '64s. Thanks Bob.

What is the name of the product?

An early flux capacitor.

Wow, they look awesome. Congrats.

I did both doors two winters ago as my indoor project. In addition to the motor cleaning up as Ed suggested I recommend removing the channels and cleaning them. There is surface oxidation in there along with dust and dirt. If you only put oil in the channels you'll be making a gritty paste. I pulled mine out and cleaned them on the bench with a Dremmel tool. When I put them back in they were like new.

Outstanding. Congratulations.

I would exhaust all possibilities to repair the original motor. What troubleshooting have you performed so far, and what were the results? Start by looking at the Chassis manual to determine where there should be 12v power and test those locations with a lighted probe.

I don't know that steel wool is the best thing for cleaning glass. There's a difference between cleaning glass (to get all the dirt off) and polishing glass (which uses a very gentle abrasive in a suspension to buff out fine scratches). I have Griots Griots glass polish which I purchased with the extra polishing pads for my random orbital polisher. You'll get better results with a machine since it can do in 5 minutes what a human can on in several hours by hand. Before you polish anything the glass has to be really really clean. I also have Griots foaming glass cleaner. This isn't just expensive Windex. It cleans really well and removes stuff you can't get off with soapy water. You should wear gloves when applying it. If your glass is good, you might do well with the following: 1. Old fashioned cleaning with hot soapy water (several passes) and rinsed with cool clean water 2. Griot's foaming cleaner (or equivalent) applied with micro-fiber towel. Wear gloves. 3. Griot's glass polish (or equivalent) applied with glass polishing pads on a random orbital machine. 4. Repeat step 1 to remove any residual polish and its abrasives. 5. Glass sealer (any brand) If you were to follow all those steps then your glass will be the best it can be. Obviously, polishing won't correct actual chips in the glass. The only fix for that is replacement. The steps above are for good glass that doesn't warrant replacement.

The crank itself is probably fine. Its most likely that something is binding in the travel of the window mechanism. The outer door skin is fairly easy to remove. Once removed you should be able to find the problem quickly.

I remember seeing a thread about correct first gen tires some time ago but I can't find it. It documented the original whitewall design (which had multiple white stripes close together vs. a single solid stripe). I have a vague recollection that someone mentioned they could still be purchased as a special order from a certain vendor and were quite expensive. Does this ring a bell with anyone? Thanks.