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Eric's.64.Superwildcat

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About Eric's.64.Superwildcat

  • Birthday 06/05/1966

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  1. Thanks to everyone that responded. I ordered new gaskets. I went with the composite gasket which I'll install without any silicone gasket maker.
  2. I completed my winter project of removing, cleaning and painting my '64 intake manifold. I'm now ready to reinstall. I have cleaned the original metal gaskets and I'll be reusing them as they are in good shape. Should I apply silicone gasket sealer as part of the process? I reviewed the chassis manual but it makes no mention of intake manifold removal and replacement procedures. Thanks in advance.
  3. Thanks guys. There are other parts in the box. Is the piece below the offset pin? I should have included that in my original posting.
  4. I have a question about my walnut steering wheel for my '64. It is not currently installed. I seem to recall discussion somewhere on this forum about two kinds of hubs; one for tilt and another for fixed steering columns and how to tell the difference. I searched the forum but I couldn't find it so I'm starting a new thread. Can anyone please remind me how to tell the difference? The photo below is the hub of the walnut wheel. My car has tilt. Thanks.
  5. Dropping and refreshing my gas tank was my most recent winter project. The straps were black when I removed them and had something on them that was more than just paint, but perhaps short of full-blown undercoating. It had a bit of rubberized material to it, most likely to prevent squeaks. I found a can of black rubberized spray paint at a big-box home supply chain and used it. See photo below. The product sprayed a lot thinner than I expected so I ended up using the entire can over many coats. In the end however, I got a nice black color with a bit of rubberized cushion. I've been driving around with it all summer and there are no squeaks. I have some before and after photos that I may be able to find. Let me know if that would be helpful to you. Eric
  6. I have a couple of questions regarding the removal of the track bar, in the rear of the chassis, on my '64. The chassis manual states that the rear axle housing is to be supported so that the weight of the vehicle is on the springs. I fully intend to follow the instructions but I don't understand why. Is it a safety issue? Or will it simply not be possible to remove the bolts without jack stands supporting the rear axle? Also, does anyone have any tips for removing the nut on the RH attachment point? It appears to be in a small cage and I won't be able to get on it with a normal socket. I have a 1" flair wrench, but it is not clear to me whether that will get in there or provide me with enough leverage to overcome the 58 years of corrosion. Thanks in advance. Eric
  7. Hi Brian. I went through this several years ago on my driver side arm rest on my '64. The passenger side was fine. I came to the conclusion that it was not repairable due to the material being dried out. I had mine replaced at an independent local auto upholstery shop. One small concession that I had to make was that the corner had the extra material folder over whereas the original was a smooth molded piece on the corners. The shop owner said that he could not reproduce the original seamless form because it was done with purpose built jigs and other heating/stretching techniques, which made sense. The folded over material is barely noticeable when the chrome end cap is installed. I attached two photos. The first shows the folded over area, and the second is the same area with the end cap installed. I think I paid $100, but that was about 6 years ago. Another thing that helped control cost was that my interior is black and he was able to match it perfectly with black vinyl that was already in stock. I'm sure that it would have been much more had it been a color not on hand. Good luck.
  8. I have a front bumper with a slight twist in it which I removed from my '64 and replaced with one from another Riv member. The twist in it is modest and can be used as-is or as a core. The chrome on it is still in good shape. It was damaged when I bought the car from the previous owner who said he accidentally bumped a car in traffic. I know that chrome can be tricky to photograph so I marked the area with blue tape (see first photo). Free for pickup in Downers Grove, IL. Area code 60515. Eric
  9. I read it differently. Here is a link to an article in the LA Times: https://www.latimes.com/business/story/2020-06-25/new-california-truck-mandate-100-000-zero-emission-commercial-haulers-sold-annually-by-2030. It says the following: "In effect, the board ordered manufacturers of medium-duty and heavy-duty commercial trucks to begin selling zero-emission versions in 2024, with 100,000 sold in California by 2030 and 300,000 by 2035." It appears to apply only to heavy and medium duty trucks, so that seems to leave pickup trucks out of it for the most part (I think those are light duty trucks). Manufacturers only need to 'begin' to sell them by 2024. With 100k by the end of the decade. I interpret the 100k to be cumulatively sold rather than a per year value. Again, this is only in the state of California.
  10. Although I've never obtained a quote for the work I have to believe it would be incredibly expensive to have a walnut steering wheel custom made. Have you looked at OE walnut wood steering wheels online or from others on this forum? The advantage is that is is guaranteed to fit, and I believe you can purchase the walnut steering wheel, hub, Riv emblem and horn bar for pennies on the dollar when compared to a quantity-1 custom piece.
  11. I did the same thing but I used a two stacked pieces from a furnace air filter.
  12. I met Carl at the ROA meet in St. Charles IL in 2015. He was a very fine person and I really enjoyed talking to him. I took this photo of him with his '64 Super Wildcat.
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