ArticiferTom

Go on E-bay , Search " vintage ink cans " . There is a nice GEM brand for under 10 shipped . .

Forget Freund , just tried to find on there web site . They where merged to Berlin Co and sold off can making equipment division . Machinery listed for sale . Sorry ...

Freund Container and Supply Co . has cans that are similar , cheap . You need to add connector to bottom and a vented lid . Some time eBay has ink cans antiques that match also . Just watch lid sizes .

Yes , I had send mine to caster and made a few repos a few years ago . All where sold . I think some else had some last year , done in brass still for sale . Do search in FS forum .

He is whole .

Maybe like this ?

Yes rear has a bushing .It was different design with grease channels . I did not replace was ok . Gland is in front of that . You can't real see it ,here but there are some shims and slingers ,also simple impeller .

Actual it was not . The back bearing and packing where keeping to a weep . I only notice after adjusting belt working on generator . Of coarse this was when i was a very newb to prewar cars and this vehicle .I was shocked to see it worn thur the bushing to the steel . The po just cranked the nut and adjustment tighter , I guess . I use marine / farm wheel grease and square shaped gland packing rope . I use the semi fluid grease in front bearing as opposed to oil only because bearing was over cut to press in to eliminate reaming . I was able to use sealant on front portion where lip is . The lube thins from heat friction and absorbs into the oil lite bushing . I know better next time LOL .

I use the Marine Stabile on non-E . Been keeping my tank rust free . Tank was stripped bare and had baffles and pic-up tube work done . This on top of replacing top that rust out from PO and coating he put in . The vapor -off tech seem to work so far .

This mine similar to shown .

You need oil lite bushings . The flange one comes in some standard sizes in Lowes . Most need o.d. cut down and pressed in and reamed in place . I purchase some from local bearing shop .

How this from ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bishko-OEM-Repair-Maintenance-OwnerS-Manual-Bound-for-Chrysler-77-1930/273446537045?epid=684720424&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3faaaf0755:g:LToAAOSwABNceOEz&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkY3FSd4Ad8xn3oRtkVexxrIM%2FAVkv6Mj40D0j%2Fpf0ej5kN8InSBnXCrDaTuyMBLPVHX3jgUhAj18mFBxBxoB0paPVmG%2Bc6M1SfGTsuFnvGYxNpkI6vPypc%2FZwYG3qQFDkRYnk4gcMYHc88iK9u6W%2BVIC6WdogFk9hIuycb0muShe1QSxclWUeOhOuPQvbuoUHAX8uG7ZaxFkprV7NDSJrWafgrHyxBrapiSCYDH07chxZRQz07uNMycOdNAISzNSowSdYCZoJbLfIfIeGr14RX2zRHTFujscylFktQPf%2FIh9PlzrJxu%2BPoNYjnPeurlWPr6TTAsP7DasNdDggmL6jDTDKsIoMT8lFXH1W8SSEdgBJUHlCAQh9QtznyM537%2FDKhTHv1E8%2BXP2rjN0NcxUSHHLYIqb5c9InEGeBhFL%2B0Je5wPNtUXP6eu79%2FyrVGoxSx5%2FjbQuYpzDPCZNb4G1azuk9Dh9hF7oK5xQb%2FInT6r33T3iUieO1h3iIJC6%2BVmv891gYuOUdjK9OecfbTVoBTvhgfeC%2B97cFYk4KMmQK7gkpbzvt90G%2FY38trsbJbRJ%2BdHx8%2Bt7qSFcsti1QZaVESsMn14RVHKCUDgSPKj0prLIYK15EoN9y7csP3VQYKLrKHfMu1XVd9MeffJkPjhVi9Gao8C%2F%2B9%2FaPl6M1qIIiti1DzROFTjb4U245iSAYtNQkg%2B60Xw50sV8A346bGYMP4O5gns81DCEjBmnZeysmyx0b4dXybWcCBo6RLT6h6FeSxWGXbQ0LUjrSAu2EIeioOg%3D%3D|cksum%3A273446537045fec1e85be3694eb08480262d228d6aae|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

For what ever help this is tags Spinneyhill repo-ed for his 1930 Dodge 8 .

pics would help . Carter made many carbs . Is it accelerator ?

Here is a pic . Not sure if matches . But note number 5 relief hole .

Do you have book Of Information for it with diagrams ?

My truck system was dried out and rusted like yours ended up doing all . Plus last was that tiny compensating hole . Could not even see it, had to drill clear with number bit .

Only other is compensating hole leading down in MC . Not allowing fluid to refill after pump, of pedal . This is smaller of two holes to refill chamber .

There is hoses on all lines . When one dries out usually all do . Rear are on same one at axle .

Collapsed flex hoses maybe problem . Disconnect at head of each to check flow .

Maybe you mean these by Knobless .

Check the back for API label if it list any letter sets starting in S . that means gas , C is diesel . Rotella T3and T4 should have SN rating . https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/718f5851-4880-43db-95a1-bbf45aeaca8f.pdf.

Might the chlorine be a little to corrosive if it gets damp ? I would use bait boxes first . but usually avoid because of local cats . Just keep traps with peanut butter around . .

A ceiling fan running all the time . it mixes temperature and humidity to it's lowest state in that environment . Lessens condensation . I use electric for heat to help keep air dry .

Not exactly sure on '33's but Radiators prior years are non -pressurized system . That seal is on cap to keep fluid from getting on surround and hood . If you look you will probably see over flow tube is below cap seal . As opposed to modern ones between seal and top cap with it's spring pressure regulator . Most of time systems are just over filled if water is not coming boiling out . The level is between top of core and cap . You may have a metal deflector in yours to prevent rush from engine splashing . If you have it just coming over that low spot on mine it works good . If boiling is heard or detected start looking at blockages , rad , block and stat .