ArticiferTom

What brand carb and last rebuild ?

Tractor Supply's has it . Double Ott lube is in soft bottle pointed end , squeeze in . Also sold by Rotary on ebay or some lawn tractor shops is used in the rear transmissions.

It's a beauty .. Your location will help . reading and do search on wanted subject, in restoration section , will yield lots of info for you . Make sure to get some fresh oil pressurized in the system before cranking .And draw your fuel from a remote test tank . 100 0/0 of old tanks are rusty . These are some of the tips you well find . Good luck and ask as many question as needed .

AH ! The Terminator engine . Someday it willll,be back ...

Great to hear you got the car out . I assume you got brakes a straighten out and working well . Not sure on crank never dealt with that .

The correct puller , I fear would put to much pressure on fragile fractured composite . A homemade of same design, further damaged mine . So decide to drill as others have . Worked easy . I do like your pic of push rod ends . Had to use the nut and various washers to protect threads and give push surface . In background of my pic you see another wheel with whole center broke out and metal inside sawed to split . It was donor steering unit so was not trying to save . Had I used drill tap . I think I may had been able to save . Is was fairly rusted on though .

I actually pulled the whole gear box through cowl . But require removing clutch pedal and floor and brake master party and a little religion . If was to do over and did not have engine pans in . Would drill and tap to pull while in vehicle . You could draw column only out . But require splitting gear box in place no so good for reinstall . See PS on above post

Thanks . I meant the second rod is over the first and on my truck controls the throttle . I attach some pics of my pulling . You can see how broke my wheel was . Drilled 1" deep blind 1/4 x 20 tapped holes . Used simple puller came right off . The Q-bond comes with black and grey powder . I first glue tight cracks . The super glue sucked right in . Then did cracks , building a little at time . Decide to stop short of top for effect to show original patina . The wheel is solid now . The build up goes quick, as glue sets in 5 to 7 seconds . Add powder using fine tools and drip glue on wait 10 seconds , repeat . PS You -tube shows Q-bond usage .

Can not tell if you have an outer wire tube . If so need to release it at bottom also . Note wheel maybe be on harder than you think . Found it easier to drill and tap steering wheel for modern puller . The pulling on the plastic fractored the wheel . I repair nicely with Q-bond system .

I believe the prior install was to prevent static discharge to the vehicles electronics .😄

Chrysler Product Radiators 1931-early 1960s for sale - parts

Sorry to here that . Hopefully others will have some pics and be able to help .

OR CALIFUNNY DOT reg.!

Should have letters same size ,i believe . Here is pic of '32 F-10 .

Look at ebay " vintage fuel pump BC " . you will see at least two BC which looks to be associated in late models with Airtex . But there are two different style arms one AC type lever the other spring plunger type . Also under filter bowl glass remove brass screen, may show a casting or model number .

Did you check all over that fuel pump for numbers ,letters or date codes . May not be AC to hard to see in pic . Check angle edge above mounting flange to engine for etched numbers (not stamped ) . Can be hard to read .

Pics and numbers would be a help . there was a thread this Winter with a few mopar rad's for sale .

Some on here was just looking for one . is it 4 or 6 cyl .

I would go to opposite side, that is never seen . Cut hole , than make gasket and cover for it like modern tank . This will give cleaning and inspection access also .

Yes , May even get a C- clamp in fill hole, use curve blocking on outside and tighten .

Remember any heat you applied may effect the terme finish of the tank , the lead in it could be damaged . Maybe a hook shape to massage it out . Also be careful of the baffles .

Probably NPT maybe 1/4" with inverted flare opposite .

This mine .

No, ( A. ) your spelling is off . Add a "K" and change "E" . That's the ones your talk'in about ! 🤪

If you have any build cards would say . Dodge from 31 had Goodyear's .