ArticiferTom

That free wheeling is another whole ball of wax . There first design only lasted one year . There second attempt was better I guess . I do not have on my truck so cannot be much help . Talking off forum , and finding a repo BOI for you is going to help alot . I have to double clutch up and down and works smooth when warm with 140 . the BOI calls for 160 . But have not been able to find . So Stay- lube 140 Founded in 1933 , I believe seems right .

The oil pressure will drop as it warms . Do they match at idle and rev sitting . Should be 30 -35 at 35 mph on pedal .

NAPA ,ebay and major company sell . this is one i get for my '31 Dodge . Sta-lube 140 also pic is Double Ott steering lube .

Sherman , just screw whole unit right out , every easy . Make sure during adjustment your turning the inner plug for your adjustment not whole unit . the inner thread plug has the spring ahead of it and plunger ( that some find stuck ahead of that) . That inner pug is what pin keeps from moving . Outter piece is just tighten in . A gasket for acorn cap will be needed . I used 1/16" cork ,paper leaked . Make note of plug depth to get close on reassembly . of coarse yours is quite off .

Your welcome . It kinda says same as above . Worded different for us dumb truck machanic's .

Really is not much reason not to use brass . A little easier to machine , maybe safer to press in housings . Compatible as most banjo are brass and lines are copper . Only down fall is galvanic action because of aluminum pistons in . His problem is just a missed machine process or piss poor one . With today's tools and cost,a S/S reline is now same price range .

Pic of splice . Stripped off few inches of old to slide up some shrink on existing attached at button . Then solder new wire ,with green shrink over joint . .Twisted wire there is existing . Jacket harden and broke down insulating .

I agree wire and power go up the tube from clum switch and the cloth cover wires break down and ground out . Not a hard fix if you can slid your tube part way up to access screws to remove button and fish new wire in using existing . At top I used joint with muti-layers of heat shrink tubing .

Gotha covered!

Hook up horn independent of truck ,to test . Is your horn button up the steering column and then grounds out? Seems like 20 a . should be enough . Next would be jump horn direct to battery with a fuse inline . Just touching should work .

Ebay . ( Junior Top Beam Clamp ) seem pretty close .

My '31 Dodge drops about 30 . There is a thread on servicing radiator with a Zoo Tool and CLR . Mine was more calcium build up . I show various IR photos there Search ( Zoo tool ) . The tool was period service tool for rad systems .

This from service book . Not sure if what your talking about .

Looks great lots of work no doubt .These are things that make workmanship stand out . 👍 Original looks like fab-ed from ,a malleable beam clamp thur hanger , of the plumbing style .

Just a suggestion , get rid of green top battery disconnect . I had one gave me fits after few years . They arc internally and lose conductivity . Others have also said same on hear . There is a little better grade one with black knob . But since your open , go first class with contact switch . Love the work your doing , and enjoying thread .

Looking to trade this NOS delco coil for later 31-32 coil of 5/8" depth from contact to top rim . Mine is 7/8" for earlier key interface .

That was info from George of custom pullers he gave me years ago .

You can cross the street .Did so year before, as parking at scooter rental maxed out . Was directed to regular parking and send down to east side front . However they did want to charge me for two spaces with my trailer .

The 2 - 3/8 one is cut about 2.313 to 2.375 with .007 tapper / in .

I used blue RTV on my pitted radiator connections . Seals well and still will come off fairly easy . Sealed with even two wire prewar clamps .

Try over at 28Q29U Plymouth site of Chet's . Lots of model specific info there .

It may take a little more . My truck small UF takes 3 -1/4 pints . Fill to bottom of hole . I personally go 1/4" less . Remember your filling the bottom of taper on axle also . i also use 140 wt book states 160 wt . just looked up other DB/GB trucks that take up to 6 quarts .Also of 600w Mobiloil C or equivalent . Sorry not a very direct answer . just show could be anything . The common is bottom of hole for level to keep it out of wheel bearings .

Simple Green or maybe Purple Power or even Dawn . Any should work if not over foaming . Certainly none of products should have ill effects on your cooling system , all are mild .

The evaporust will be of little good since you already oiled the rust . You will first need to remove oils so it can work .