viv w

I think 30 Dodge panel MAY be right. The only spring in his assortment with 4 turns on it is 3-1723. However without being coiled at all, it has 3 turns 1 side and 4 turns the other side. Best thing for hursst to do, is take the spring off the mechanism with a pair of pliers and then compare it to the picture shown on the chart. Viv.

From your picture it would appear that the ring gear is part of the flywheel. This was common on older vehicles. You will have to remove the flywheel and take it to a machine shop for them to turn off the old teeth and fit your new gear for you. Before you remove the flywheel from the crank, make sure to mark both parts, so that you assemble the flywheel back onto the crank in exactly the same position. This will ensure you don't upset the motors balance. Viv.

Hi Lief, Thanks for your input. Too small for Willy's Knight and missing the "humpy" bit on the top panels to follow the radiator contour. However, you did make me research Knight images and this one of a 1929 Willy's Overland Whippet 4 came up. There was also a picture of an identical Hood for sale, stating 1929 Willy's Overland 4 Hood for sale. So mystery solved, thank you. Now to find someone who needs it. Viv.

They are probably the same as other mopars in 1936 and if they are riteway then I am pretty sure they will be the same as 36/8 Hudson and Terraplane. Viv

Hi Bob, If the motor wont come apart because it is rusted up, then put it into a tank of water and let it sit for a while (anything from 3 weeks to a few months), water will loosen the rusted parts better than any penetrating oil. I read this some years ago in an Australian hot rod magazine and tried it on a motor that had been sitting out in the weather for decades. It took 3 months, but the alloy pistons eventually came out of the cast iron bores and the piston wrist pins were free enough to be stripped out.

Hi All, I have remains of a Chrysler G70 tourer that I am building and have many unanswered questions. First thing, I got the remains about 35 years ago, as a rolling frame with motor G101***. It had 20inch Buffalo type 4HC corrugated drive wire wheels, a very rare option. The number of blades on the axle front and rear springs indicated that this was originally a touring car, but there was absolutely NO bodywork left at all. As all the Chryslers I have seen, both in Zimbabwe and South Africa, have been Detroit built, I am assuming my rolling remains was also probably USA built. In 2014, I found and bought a Canadian built touring body in pieces, from Australia. This body bears a Canadian serial number 51522, it had the dash panel still fitted inside the cowl and there has never been a FEDCO plate on this panel. The G70 instruments I bought in Hershey later that year fit the dash panel exactly. Am I right in assuming this body IS either 1925 or early 1926? Can anyone tell me if there are any differences between Canadian and USA built frames ?, especially the wheelbase and more specifically the placement of body mounting brackets. At Hershey in Oct 2014, I saw and photographed a restored USA built G70 touring. Interestingly the front seat backrest was totally different from the Canadian built one. I have bits of my original front seat comprising of the metal panel with the 3 ribs and some timber as shown in my second picture, but most of the seat frame is missing. I found a guy in Finland with a Canadian built car, that appears identical to mine and he sent me some pictures of his front seat back rest. I have edited this picture and asked the guy in Finland several times for some measurements, but so far to no avail, as the weather there is too cold most of the year and the body is somewhere else having work done on it. I don't blame him, as I too would not want to be out in minus 20 celsius(about -4F). I am therefore appealing thru this forum, if there is anyone else with a Canadian built G70 touring that could give me some measurements of the seatback please. I have bits of my original front seat comprising of the metal panel with the 3 ribs and some timber as shown in my second picture, but most of the seat frame is missing. I have edited below, the picture of the seat back with letters and would like to ask, if anyone can give me the following measurements please:- Distance from:- **A to B (seat back centre at floor to top of lower opening) BTW this opening/pocket is for storing the side curtains. " " B to C ( From top of lower opening to top of upper opening.) " " C to D ( From top of upper opening to top of seat) " " E to F ( Is this the same as B to C ?) " " F to H ( From top of upper opening to top of seat, This should be less than C to D ?) " " I to J ( This is from bottom of opening to the door pillar) " " K to L ( This is from top of opening to door pillar) Also please could I ask you to put a plank or straight edge across the top of the front of the 2 centre door pillars and measure how far it is from the plank to the back of the top of the front seat, thanks. If anyone has a Canadian body stripped for restoration, I would appreciate some pictures of the following:- (if possible with a tapemeasure shown for reference) The wood framework of the front seat back and riser/base. The area under the back seat base, I have a metal panel that I think goes there, but some cars on the nett have shown this as ply wood, not sure which is right. The floor boards between front and rear seat The floor under front seat? I have a metal tray I think goes there? The floor boards from front seat riser to the front toeboard. The seat springs with or without upholstery and dimensions please. This picture below, I took in 2014 after I had sort of pieced together what I had, when my body came from Australia. I have most of the sill/ floor frame/cowl/rear tub/door and pillar wood to copy, Thanks in advance for any information you can give. Viv. The USA built car at Hershey 2014 is shown below, very different. Seat back open Below USA closed.

Coker tire offer new rims for sale, it might be worth enquiring if they off a rim straightening service. Viv.

I also have some unidentified hood side curtains, they are partly buried in my spares shed so.............. The top (rusty one) is approx 31,375in long and I only have this piece. The bottom one (painted) I have I think 3 sides, 1 pair and one extra. They are approx 37,75in long, and came from Australia with some Chrysler G70 stuff I bought. I think these could be Chrysler, but if so, what model and year please. Many thanks Viv.

Hi All, Need to identify this 1920's hood. It is 26,75in long along centre hinge, it is 36,5 in from centre hinge to botton of side curtain at the cowl and 29in long from centre hinge to bottom of the side curtain at the radiator. It has 4 alloy studs in the top panels. Anyone know what this is for ? Thanks regards Viv.

If you take your old sample bearing to a company selling timken or SKF bearings they should be able to measure the old bearings and find a suitable replacement. Those numbers you have are very old numbers and are probably a 3 part bearing. These old type bearings will have been superceded, and replaced by a 2 part taper roller bearing with newer technology. I would recommend you replace both the inner and outer hub bearings on both sides of the car and also the inner grease seals. Viv.

Chrysler75, Hwellens has just given all of us a chart with useful information, the seals that you are seeking are easily made, by cutting 2 strips of cork, 29/32inch wide by 11&7/16 inches long from a sheet of 1/4 inch thick cork. I would recommend using rubberised cork, and when installing these gaskets, use a good quality gasket sealer. Thanks Hwellens for posting the above chart, it will be most useful to me also, when I rebuild my G70 Chrysler next year. Viv.

Try the antique Ford V8 dealers such as C&G parts or Mac's. The 1935-7 Ford convertibles used a frame this size. Viv.

There is a guy selling a series 77 motor with a waterpump listed under parts for sale on this forum. The seller will sell parts seperately.

Hi, These are the pictures of the clum switch I have. Even in daylight the clum number is almost impossible to read, it could be 8821, 8831, 3881 or 8881. Hope these pictures might help. Viv.

Hi, I have really cleaned it tonight, it is very rusty right where it says clum and the number is very hard to read. It could be 3881, the first and third numbers could be either a 3 or an 8 as they are corroded. I have now opened the switch and can confirm the inside is different from the one JimmyS is looking for, so probably will not work. sorry for getting his hopes up. I will take some pictures tomorrow and post them, to see if anyone can positively ID my one, Viv.

Hi JimmyS, I finally found the clum switch I have, lying in my garage. It looks identical to your one, is used, it does turn, has some surface rust and will need stripping and cleaning. The bakelite looks in good shape. The main round part of the body is 1&5/8in diameter, the hole for the rod to go through is approx 1/4in. There are numbers around the body opposite each terminal, these reading from left to right are 1 3 2 4 6 5. I can find no other numbers on the switch. Please let me know if this is the same as yours. If so then PM me your name, email and postal address and I will send you some pictures and get a postal cost to send it to you. Guys in USA and New Zealand have been very good to me in the past and have given me stuff for free, provided I paid the shipping. I am happy to give it to you on the same basis, that once you receive the switch, you will reimburse me my postal costs. Let me know Best regards Viv.

Looks right for a 1929 Essex Challenger

As Kaiser said it looks like the cars mentioned, they were marketed as a Durant in USA and then Star. However because Star was also made in UK, they became a Rugby in the colonies. So if this car was in New Zealand it will most likely be a Rugby.

headlights look later too

Clean that old cruddy paint off your switch, then carefully open the switch by prying up just 2 of the tabs holding it together and just clean it out. They are pretty simple inside. I found a pair of wire cutters work well for prying the tabs up to open these switches and a small hammer to bend them back once finished.

I haven't changed the valves over, so can't help on that one, but, I had a top like yours, that had cracked down the side of where the fuel line screws into the top. I made a steel sleeve that was a nice push on fit, to go on the outside of the cracked part, fitted it on with locktite, and when the fuel pipe fitting was screwed into place, the sleeve stopped the crack from opening. It is still working on the car 35 years later.

As others have said, they are not the most reliable system, but a guy wanting a correct car will buy it. Not sure about 32 and 33 Ford, but pretty sure Ford used them in 1934. I have them in my 35 Ford, 26 Nash and 26 Chrysler G70, they were also used by Auburn in 34 to 36. If you sell it, put some measurements on it to show length, as some gas tanks are deeper than others.

Those hood handles are identical in design to the ones fitted to my 26 Chrysler and 26 Nash, but they come in different sizes. You need to measure the distance from centre to centre of the mounting holes and look carefully on the inside of these handles to see if there is a makers name.

The radiator shape looks more W-K than Overland, but then with the 3 cats, maybe it's a first generation Buick Wildcat 😂

Hi All, Some years ago I bought a Canadian built 1925/6 Chrysler G70 tourer body in pieces from a deceased estate on EBAY Australia. Amongst the stuff I received were some mid 20's Nash parts (that will also fit a Nash that I own) and this floor pan. I have yet to restore the Nash or put the Chrysler body together, but assumed this pan was a tool tray to fit under the rear seat of the Chrysler. I looked at it today and think it is too small for the Chrysler, it measures 34 x 17 inches. I would like to know if anyone recognises this pan, and can confirm if it is Chrysler or Nash. At the time that this stuff was being sold the seller was also listing dodge and other makes. As always, thanks in advance Viv .