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Bob Atkinson

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About Bob Atkinson

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  • Birthday 03/29/1947

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  1. For those of us who grew up in Georgia, LA stood for Lower Alabama. Sorry, couldn't resist.
  2. Purolator A2. Used only in 1926. If your friend decides to replace it with a different kind that would be functional, I would be interested in buying it.
  3. A possible solution for you. I looked for one of those stationary bracket assemblies for over twenty years for my 26 Master. They were pot metal and disintegrate over time and use. Several years ago Mark Shaw responded to my post looking for one. He said he had a 1924 (I think) off his parts car and it was aluminum. With a little filing it fit in my steering wheel hub and shaft and is still functioning great today. Mark, do you remember this and what year and series was the one you sent me?
  4. Oh, one more point. make sure the bead of the tire is seated well in the rim as you work your way around from the starting point - save muscle Dept.
  5. Believe 1926 rims were originally cadmium plated. I couldn't find anybody that would plate mine. so like Mark, I painted them. And, yes, you will mess up the paint mounting the tires. Also if you are mounting whitewalls, be aware the little wedges on the rim go on the outside. I mounted four tires the wrong way and had to redo them. I have a rim spreader but didn't need it with new tires. Just used a flat crow bar to butt the ends.
  6. Hugh, Thanks for the offer. I may be contacting you. I actually have another tail light that I bought years ago from a guy that said it was a dealer sold accessory tail light. It has a similar but smaller round red lens and a blue rectangular lens above it that would serve as the brake light, two separate bulb sockets. It has the period Buick logo in the blue glass. Only problem is the blue lens is cracked in half. I suppose I could glue it. The bulb in my current tail light is plenty bright to serve as a stop light. My biggest problem is forgetting to turn the switch off after usin
  7. Some interesting points on the light switch. It has four on positions: First turns on the tail light only. I presume this is a manual brake light as 1926 Buicks did not come with a brake light. At least that is how I use it. Second is tail and cowl lights. Third and fourth are both head and tail lights. Inside my switch there was what I think is an original jumper wire jumping these two positions together. My supposition is this switch was a carryover from 1925 before the light dimmer moved to the steering column and one of those two positions was dim and the other was bright.
  8. 1926 and 1927 models are virtually the same. But, I believe you may have a 1927 Model 47. Quick ways to tell are 1. the data plate on the firewall (if still there) will say 26-47 or 27-47. 2. The visor in 1926 wrapped around the windshield header. In 1927 it attached to the front of the header - from the pictures, this is what makes me think it is a 1927. 3. New for 1927 was a funnel in front of the engine oil filler tube to catch air and ventilate the crankcase. 1926 did not have this. 4. The exhaust manifold for 1927 had studs in the head at the front and rear outer edges. 1926 did not have.
  9. Viv, Thank You. The above postings were in 2015. Soon after posting the above I was able to free the engine. No rust, just dried out oil holding it.
  10. Left wiper assembly for 1941 Plymouth convertible.
  11. A couple more pictures... This is the kit Steele sells for the Fisher VV windshield. Installed it about 10 years ago. My car is a 26-47 I would be surprised if the 27-27 is any different. The measurement from the glass to the end of the rubber strip is just over 1/2 inch. Side channels also come with the kit. I have been pleased. The windshield rolls up and down easily and when down it does not leak.
  12. I am usually a stickler for authenticity. But, I cheated on the wiper motor. My housing was cracked, it was leaking vacuum, a mounting leg was broken, and I couldn't find a correct replacement. A Model A Ford wiper motor fits the mounting holes perfectly and they are being reproduced. In twelve years no one has noticed it is not the correct motor (just squealed on myself) and it works great.
  13. I haven't gotten my car out of winter storage yet so can't do a video just now. How to get to the windshield winding mechanism: Take off the winding handle, rear view mirror, and take out the two screws on either side of the header. This should let you lift off the outer header board with the upholstery attached. Under that you will find another board attached with wood screws. Take that off and you should have full access to the winding mechanism. When I redid my interior twelve years ago Steele Rubber Products was offering a weather stripping kit for the Fisher VV wi
  14. The big window crank handle is to crank up the windshield. It will go up about six inches. The dash is designed so that if you crank up the windshield about an inch or so it catches the air and blows it on your feet. More, it blows directly on you. This is a feature you will really appreciate driving your car in warm weather as there is a lot of heat transmitted through the firewall and other cracks and holes in the floor boards. Cranking up the windshield makes a huge difference in interior comfort. My car is a Master 26-47. But it is the same body.
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