Bob Atkinson

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About Bob Atkinson

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  • Birthday 03/29/1947

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  1. Hugh, Thanks for the offer. I may be contacting you. I actually have another tail light that I bought years ago from a guy that said it was a dealer sold accessory tail light. It has a similar but smaller round red lens and a blue rectangular lens above it that would serve as the brake light, two separate bulb sockets. It has the period Buick logo in the blue glass. Only problem is the blue lens is cracked in half. I suppose I could glue it. The bulb in my current tail light is plenty bright to serve as a stop light. My biggest problem is forgetting to turn the switch off after using it. I do use hand signals in addition, but most people today don't know why my hand is hanging out the window. Last summer is the first time in 8 or 10 years I have driven my Buick after dark. Another problem with night driving is the dim headlights. We are spoiled!
  2. Some interesting points on the light switch. It has four on positions: First turns on the tail light only. I presume this is a manual brake light as 1926 Buicks did not come with a brake light. At least that is how I use it. Second is tail and cowl lights. Third and fourth are both head and tail lights. Inside my switch there was what I think is an original jumper wire jumping these two positions together. My supposition is this switch was a carryover from 1925 before the light dimmer moved to the steering column and one of those two positions was dim and the other was bright. The little round knob on top turns on the instrument light.
  3. 1926 and 1927 models are virtually the same. But, I believe you may have a 1927 Model 47. Quick ways to tell are 1. the data plate on the firewall (if still there) will say 26-47 or 27-47. 2. The visor in 1926 wrapped around the windshield header. In 1927 it attached to the front of the header - from the pictures, this is what makes me think it is a 1927. 3. New for 1927 was a funnel in front of the engine oil filler tube to catch air and ventilate the crankcase. 1926 did not have this. 4. The exhaust manifold for 1927 had studs in the head at the front and rear outer edges. 1926 did not have. 5. The spare tire carrier has the year stamped into it on the riveted on strap that attaches to the frame cross member. You should be able to see it looking down standing behind the car.
  4. Viv, Thank You. The above postings were in 2015. Soon after posting the above I was able to free the engine. No rust, just dried out oil holding it.
  5. Left wiper assembly for 1941 Plymouth convertible.
  6. A couple more pictures... This is the kit Steele sells for the Fisher VV windshield. Installed it about 10 years ago. My car is a 26-47 I would be surprised if the 27-27 is any different. The measurement from the glass to the end of the rubber strip is just over 1/2 inch. Side channels also come with the kit. I have been pleased. The windshield rolls up and down easily and when down it does not leak.
  7. I am usually a stickler for authenticity. But, I cheated on the wiper motor. My housing was cracked, it was leaking vacuum, a mounting leg was broken, and I couldn't find a correct replacement. A Model A Ford wiper motor fits the mounting holes perfectly and they are being reproduced. In twelve years no one has noticed it is not the correct motor (just squealed on myself) and it works great.
  8. I haven't gotten my car out of winter storage yet so can't do a video just now. How to get to the windshield winding mechanism: Take off the winding handle, rear view mirror, and take out the two screws on either side of the header. This should let you lift off the outer header board with the upholstery attached. Under that you will find another board attached with wood screws. Take that off and you should have full access to the winding mechanism. When I redid my interior twelve years ago Steele Rubber Products was offering a weather stripping kit for the Fisher VV windshield. It included the piece across the bottom the windshield closes into and the side channels the windshield slides in. As I recall the rubber strip across the top of the windshield outside was sold separate. Before cleaning and oiling the mechanism and replacing the weather stripping my windshield was working but with difficulty. Now it works very smoothly. You should be able to get to the door winding mechanism by taking the door panels off.
  9. The big window crank handle is to crank up the windshield. It will go up about six inches. The dash is designed so that if you crank up the windshield about an inch or so it catches the air and blows it on your feet. More, it blows directly on you. This is a feature you will really appreciate driving your car in warm weather as there is a lot of heat transmitted through the firewall and other cracks and holes in the floor boards. Cranking up the windshield makes a huge difference in interior comfort. My car is a Master 26-47. But it is the same body.
  10. Restoration Supply Company in CA also has the copper crush rings. The vacuum valve in the dash turns the windshield wiper on and off. Unscrew it for on, screw it in tight for off.
  11. Check your ground. The ground wire runs down with the power wire and grounds to the frame just in front of the front seat on the passenger side at a body mount. That was the problem with my 1926 sedan dome light.
  12. If you are looking for correctness, I believe white walls would be correct through 1926.
  13. Labaron Bonney kits are not like original in stitching or color if you are looking for it to be authentic.
  14. Also check that the seat in the vacuum tank lid for the valve that opens to the intake manifold has’t come loose. I had that happen several years ago with the same flooding results. Super glued the seat back in and it has been running fine since.