viv w

I rebuilt a very original low mileage, one owner, 1927 model 50 RHD tourer and a 1928 model 52 RHD tourer . I do recall the model 50 had an ignition wiring distribution TUBE, taking the wires from the distributor to the plugs, the model 52 had 2 brackets bolted to the head, that had a U shape cut out of them to hold a rubber grommet with the wires running thru the grommets. The engine that prewar 40 posted, show these type 52 brackets, one is quite clearly seen as it is bent over around the number 2 plug, the other is harder to see just underneath plug 1. It is possible that Chrysler used the same model 52 engine in their early 1928 Plymouth's. Spinneyhill, the picture you posted above, could very well be a model 52 LHD engine, the carb on it is Model A Ford and I'm pretty sure the autovac is a replacement. The inlet and probably the exhaust manifold is different on the LHD and RHD cars. Also according to the parts book, there were two different ex/in manifolds for the RHD cars. One thing I have learnt over the last 40+ years working on early Chrysler cars, is never take it for granted that any two cars from the same series are the same. There were many differences in their cars during production and it can be very confusing trying to restore a car from parts. The only way to really date this motor from Prewar40 is from the engine number. Somewhere I have pictures of both my engines, I will dig them out and post them in the next few days.

Pretty sure this is a Chrysler 50 or 52 motor from 1927/8 and it IS right hand drive, as seen from the clutch pedal. I seem to recall my model 52 had this U casting on the head too. May also be 1928 Plymouth. Look for the engine number on the left side of the block, it will be below the centre head bolt . From this number we can identify it. Also if you look on the right side of the block there is a casting date, this can be partly seen in the photo's, but the year is hidden behind the oil pipes.

Think you guys are right that it is a Nash, but perhaps 1930. These pics are of a 1930 Nash 450 six article I found. The dash layout would appear correct but it has obviously been modified at some time. The wheels are 10 spoke with 5 hub bolts. The rim clamps design appears to be like the "Motorwheel" ones on my 26 chrysler, but could also be Firestone or Rubsam in design. Not sure about the 3 spoke steering wheel on a 30 Nash, as I've failed to find a picture showing one. Viv.

Hi, These are for sale on this site https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/edmunds-and-jones-headlights-e-j-type-20-headlights.1115740/

Hubcap design is 1928/9, 10 spoke wheel with 5 bolt hub must be a clue. Don't think it is GM or Mopar. Maybe Studebaker or Hupp.

The Chevrolet script on a 57 V8 is shorter in length than on a 6cyl car, this is so that it fits inside the vee emblem. Most of the 57 chevs in this part of the world were assembled in Port Elizabeth south Africa. I had a RHD 150 Coupe utility 6 cyl sedan with the long script on the hood, it was unrestored and rough but the script was mounted lower down, my other one was a LHD V8 Belair 4dr sedan, both cars were built in Port Elizabeth. One of our club members saw my Belair and told me he worked in the P E factory when these cars were built, he claimed they would built 12 RHD drive cars and then 12 LHD as production progressed on the assembly line and said the majority of the LHD cars were for export to the Belgian Congo, I can't confirm this but thought it interesting. Another interesting thing about SA built 57's was the paint and upholstery. SA cars the roof was painted one color only down to the gutter line, the tops of the doors and pillars were lower body color and some of the colors followed earlier Chev models. My %7 Belair was totally original but very tatty before restoration, it was canyon coral with an india ivory roof/top, the interior seats were pleated as per 1955 design but the door panels matched the USA spec design for 57, and the interior was color matched to the exterior in canyon coral with ivory.

Maok, You paid a lot of money to have your motor done, I would take it back to the machine shop and ask them to sort out the problems you have found. Any attempt you make to correct the faults you have found, will make it difficult to argue your case. The machine shop will turn around and say YOU buggered it up. That small hole in your picture I think is for a locating pin/bolt or dowel for holding the distibutor in place ??

The cloth of the cover holds the moisture in place longer, than if the water were just on the bodywork, much the same as a pile of dead leaves will hold moisture. An alternative is to put some wooden pallets and wooden planks across the car before putting a tarp or cover over the vehicle, but make sure that air can circulate between the car and the cover and underneath the vehicle to avoid condensation. I personally would not cover the car at all, if it is only going to be outside for one winter. Parked at your house, there is no danger from salted roads, and if you consider the inside of a fridge in the old days before self defrosting and plastic liners came along, those old fridges had painted insides, that frosted up and were defrosted numerous times and they survived for decades. So one winter of snow and ice !!, I think your car will survive it without too many problems.

I agree with John. Although I do not have your cold weather I would not recommend covering the car at all, with a tarp or any type of car cover, as this will hold the moisture onto your car, causing it to rust quicker. I had a guy here who covered his 39 Willy's with a car cover for 3 months during our rainy season, when he took the cover off his car the top of the hood and the roof peeled off with the cover. The car was beyond recovery. Put the car on stands, drain out all your radiator fluids and clear off the snow and ice whenever you get a chance.

My 35 Ford has them on the front

Kaiser, it's hard to tell if the emblem is still there, even when magnified. I own both a 26 Chrysler and a 27 Nash, the radiators are very similar. You may be right about it being an earlier Nash than mine. One thing for sure is the bottom part of the radiator shell appears missing and I don't think the hood belongs with that radiator.

Chrysler ?

It looks english, but the headlights, front fenders and basic radiator shape are a bit like 29/30 Chev. Bedford trucks were very similar to Chev but I'm not sure of the radiator script.

looks like a Falcon Knight

The car looks to be between 1915 and 1923, judging by the body design and the top frames. The ladies clothing is mid twenties, but don't forget the picture was probably taken when the car was a few years old.

Look for an engine number on the left side of the motor block, just below the head and it may be hidden by the horn, this may help to ID your car if the fedco number is missing from the dash. Secondly, the fedco number is part of an anti theft system, if this has been removed, probably as a souvenir, then you will have to look for a replacement dash, as these numbers were permanently welded to the dash. I don't think anyone reproduced them. Viv.

The Hood lying in the background has doors in it, maybe 32 chevy ?

Question for Overseas buyers: When I list items on eBay are there things you look for in the Title, or if the "Global Shipping" option has been checked off. I have a feeling global is an expensive joke. I enjoy selling World Wide, how do I attract more buyers? Bob Hi Bob, as an overseas buyer when looking for parts on Ebay, I first look at the year and make of car I'm looking for, then the items newly listed, if it's what I need, I then look at the price, then shipping costs and location of the part. If the part is reasonably priced and the shipping cost is reasonable I may bid on the item. Often guys list a part cheaply, but the shipping cost listed can be a total rip off. For instance you may find a $10 retail item listed for $2, but the shipping on the small item is $30, I don't even bother to comment on these rip off merchants. The other guys I avoid, unless I am desperate for the item, are those that list "ship to the lower 48 only" or "we don't sell outside the USA", what these guys don't realise, is that there is a world wide web of international buyers, who may want to buy your item, and some of those buyers will pay top dollar for your item. When you live in places such as ours, the car you are building may be the only one of its type within 5000 miles, so if you really, really need that part, you are going to bid on it and pay if you win the bid. What I hate with ebay is the companies and individuals that list pages of metal repro signs, mustang conv kits, aftermarket parts and lights that will "fit your car", about as well as your wife will accept second hand underwear from a charity shop. These adds are a pain and have nothing to do with vintage , antique cars. Viv

Dynaflash8, you did not mention how you wanted UPS or Fedex to ship the radio. Most of the guys I have dealt with overseas seem to want to pack the stuff with a ton of packing material and wood crates and then ONLY want to ship express next day delivery. Well in the old car hobby, do you really need rusty brackets/non working parts packed in a ton of old newspapers and have to have it delivered tomorrow? UPS and FEDEX offer next day overnight express delivery, express 3 day, or 7 to 14 day standard delivery. The same applies to USPS, they have a standard rate which is a fraction of the cost of their express mail. Did you ask for express delivery rate? Does your buyer NEED it tomorrow morning? I live in Zimbabwe and shipping costs to here are horrendous, so I have learned to ship my stuff, either to my long suffering sister in Canada or to a Michigan address so that my packages can be repacked as lightly and as small as possible, before being onward shipped to me. Some years ago we ordered a lot of mechanical and rubber parts from a well known vendor in USA and asked specifically for it to be sent by USPS in several small boxes and to ensure that it was not sent by courier. The vendor was paid by credit card, well 3 days later it arrived at my door in 1 big box delivered by FEDEX, the box weighed 96lbs charged at $14 a lb. To add insult to injury the vendor used old newspapers to liberally pack the 18lbs of parts, so the cost of the box and papers added over $900 to the cost of the shipping. We complained to the vendor and they could not care less. I have had things, like a small light switch 3inch x 3inch x 2 inches that weighed 4oz sent to Canada in a box 2ft cubed, with 9lbs of paper around it, the cost of postage was horrendous, but again you are at ebay's mercy. Another item we ordered from UK was a small bearing that cost £35 (+-$50), we wrote on the order in bold red letters SHIP BY UK POST, but the moron filling the order just sent it DHL at a cost of $770usd. The guys filling the orders either don't care or Don't realise what it is costing their clients. I have a 26 Nash to restore and the gas tank is rusted out, last year I bought a parts car in USA and the tank is good, it is 36in long and 15in diameter and weighs 10kg (22lbs), I figured on maybe 10lbs of packing materials, so a total weight of 32lbs. I did my homework, on USPS it was too big for them to post to Zim, online with UPS or FEDEX I can ONLY get express delivery and for a mere $1080, because they work on volume or weight, and in this case the volume costs more than the weight. Needless to say the tank will remain in USA and I have had to make a new one over here. As for tracking numbers, it's nice to see where your package is , but can also be frustrating, my last item was posted by USPS express delivery (5 days ??) from Tennessee, well I tracked it , it went from Tn to Jamaica central sorting office, from there it went back to New York, then Paris, Madrid and Lisbon, before it disappeared off the face of the earth and eventually ended up here 7 weeks later. Where it went from Lisbon is a mystery, but so much for express 5 day guaranteed delivery. I don't bother with express delivery or Airmail anymore, it all goes by surface mail, still takes 7-9 weeks at a fraction of the cost. Viv.

South Africa sold these cars as a Chevrolet, with either the straight 6 or the V8. The V8 version was very upmarket with leather trim, power windows and steering, aircon etc and known as a De Ville . The 6cyl was less luxurious and called a constantia. They also sold a pick up version of this vehicle, it was known in Australia as a Holden Belmont. In South Africa these pick up's were badged as an El Camino, most of if not all the South African El Camino's were fitted with straight 6 engines.

The letters basically were allocated numbers as follows:- W P C H R Y S L E R 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 So the starting serial number YC200P = 522001 and YR056S = 540566, the last serial number built. YH249R becomes 532499, this being the serial number of your car. Regards Viv.

Maok, If those steel rivets have been rubbing on the pressure plate, then I would suspect that the clutch plate is too big in diameter, and someone has fitted an incorrect part at some time on your car. Your picture also shows some places on the clutch plate springs that have also been hitting something. I would suggest you measure the diameter of your clutch plate and compare it with the specs for your car. Viv.

Maybe a broken crankshaft ? Perhaps while you have the pan off, remove each bearing cap and check if it has broken in the middle of a journal.

Don't mess around with old brake lines. If it has a pin hole in one area, then chances are the rest of your brake lines also need replacement. Brake lines corrode from inside and you wont see a problem until it is too late. Replace ALL your metal brake pipes urgently. Your life depends on it and so do the lives of your loved ones. Viv

Coker tire list these type of rims and offer a rebuild service Viv