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chrysler75

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  1. why not an 148L? this is a 135 with a 7 inches longer wheelbase, but same chassis, only slighter longer. A grown-up person can not sit in the back seat of a 135 model, but in the 148L there is plenty of room and the bodystyles are rhe same as the 135
  2. complete cowlsurround + cowllight mounts for a Chrysler 75 (? l not sure but they were mounted on a -929 Chrysler. good chrome, no lights, plug and play
  3. here are my favorites: Matra Muren S, , but also our 1929 Chrysler 75 roadster
  4. my favorite French car is the Delahaye ;
  5. have a complete cowl surround and the cowlllight .supports for a series 75 sent a PM if you want it
  6. the seal is for our 1929 Chrysler 75 Roadster Does anyone know where I could buy such a seal? kind regards, Pete The Netherlands
  7. to prevent leaking oil, there has to be a seal between the last crank bearing and the flywheel. It is made of rubber or felt. Can anyone tell where I can buy such a seal and what it is made of ? thnx in advance Pete
  8. yes, Vintageben, it is original and often there is rust between the two chassis rails near the battery. Check this carefully, eventually cut one rail partly out a bit and weld a new peace in. we have a 1929 chrysler 75 roadster and restored it some years ago, and had to cut out 15 " at the lower inner rail .
  9. for sale cowl surround and light stanchions ( no cowl lights )for a 1928 / 29 / 30 Chrysler. Nice chrome, plug and play, see picture. Pieces are in The Netherlands regards Pete
  10. Hello John Sent picture and price ( incl shipping to The Netherlands) in a PM please kind regards Pete
  11. Hi Graeme, please count me in from The Netherlands. We drive a 1929 series 75 Roadster, the engine was completely rebuild last year. kind regards Pete
  12. Hello Bill, need some other parts for a 1910 Cadillac model 30 : gearbox complete, headlamps ( acetyleen "Clay & Davis ) acetyleen supplier for these lamps radiator cap hub caps Hope you or someone can help. kind regards Pete
  13. Problem solved, I visited the company that overhauled the master break cylinder, they found out that the seals were swelled up and did replace them. Since I drove about 300 miles and the brakes did not lock up anymore. So I ordered three new sets of seals for eventually solve this problem if it occurs in the future. Many thanks to all for the help and support on this matter! Pete
  14. hello Craig, Thanks for your answer! Can I use the original for our 1929 Chrysler with silicone oil? If yes, please sent an email with price and shipping to the Netherlands regardPete
  15. Thanks for the replies! the brakes just lock up after a while driving, when I want to stop the car. Yesterday I drove 30 miles without any problems, but when I came home and wanted to drive her in the garage, this problem occurs, and it locked up so fearce that I was afraid to break a drive shaft. I already gave the pedal more space before it realy brakes, but this space is gone when the master cylinder locks up. It is surely the mastercylinder, when I jack up the car all four wheels are locked up. I drove the Chrysler for several years without any problems on silicone with new wheel cylinders, new lines and an overhauled mastercylinder and the car always really braked very well. The mastercylinder is the round type with the reservoir separate , but I think that I can shut up this reservoir when I use the master cylinder with the reservoir on top of it., like the one on the Dodge WC. The holes to mount the cylinder seem to be the same .
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