viv w

The above body tag is hard to read, **** body corporation Grand Rapids Michigan will be the company who supplied the body to Chrysler for that Desoto, I'm guessing the 91 will be the body design or type and 3661 will be the number of that body supplied, so the 3661' st body of that design made by the company.

The numbers on the charts posted by Richasco are Fedco numbers, not frame or motor numbers, the Fedco number should be on a small plate in the centre of the dashboard directly above the guage cluster. Viv

Check out these guys online for your windscreen http://www.metropartsmarket.com/

I would think these bearings are scarce as hens teeth. You may have to get someone to rebabbit your old ones.

After WW2 there was an acute shortage of new cars in UK as most new cars were exported. It was common to see prewar cars being rebuilt as specials in the late 40's and into the 50's. I would suspect this is the case with this car and even later it was further modified.

Hi Don, If you get really stuck, I saw that https://vintageandclassicreproductions.com/ in Australia make these wheelnuts new at $60aus each. If you go on line look under Nash .

I got a fitting like this from a motorbike dealer and 12v bulbs. I think yamaha used them

Hello Don, I don't have any spare nuts, but it may help you to know that these nuts are used on other cars. My 1928 wire wheeled Model 62 Chrysler and my 1927 solid disc wheeled Nash use the same wheelnuts.

Hi Narve, My series 62 has basically the same guage, but has a slightly different nickel bezel. I bought a series 65 gas guage from Canada and the needle was loose inside. Upon opening and checking, I found the needle pivots on a bearing made of pot metal and the pot metal has disintegrated with age. I opened a series finer 70 gas guage I have, hoping to use it, but that has the same problem. I hopefully was lucky, and bought another one in USA last month, from a guy who said it is the only one of 14 that he has, that is actually working. I would suggest taking the front nickel bezel and glass off your one, and look carefully to see if the needle is loose, chances are your guage has suffered the same fate, and I would be surprised if anyone can fix them. Regards Viv

Hi Narve, Remembered to measure my series 62 roadster windscreen frame today, it is 39,25inches wide and 11,75 inches tall in the middle, so not a match to your one. regards Viv.

Nice project and right hand drive. Good luck , we look forwards to progress reports over the next few weeks 😁, or should we say years.

Look for Curti (Curt Schulze)on this forum, he buys and sells Auburn parts and may have what you are looking for, also Stan Gilliland at Auburn Cord parts in Kansas

Hi Dazzo, As you are in New Zealand, I assume your car is right hand drive. Be careful buying another manifold, as the right hand drive manifold may be different to the left hand drive one. The angle of the flange where the exhaust pipe bolts on may be different to clear the steering column and pedals. Check the casting numbers match your existing one, the Models 50, 52 and 58 may look the same but there are some differences. Those manifolds are prone to cracking in the area shown in your picture. Whether you weld your existing one or find a replacement, you will have to put a new gasket between the inlet and exhaust manifolds and get a machine shop to skim both together as a unit before mounting them onto your motor. If you do not skim the ports level you will risk cracking or breaking the manifolds. Viv.

Hi Gunsmoke, A tip for you, which I hope will help when fitting your control rods back inside your welded steering column tube. I had to cut a bunch of 3 control rods in half to post them from USA to Zimbabwe, as they were too long for USPS or Fedex to ship. I then had to weld them back together once they arrived, and one of my concerns was there would be a build up of weld inside each tube, which being a meter down would be almost impossible to drill and it then would stop the next tube from passing inside. What I did was to weld the tube together, then make it red hot all the way around at the join and I then rammed a suitable sized rod up and down the inside of the tube to remove any internal weld or slag. In my case, I started with the thinest tube, removed the horn wire and welded it , I then used a 2mm steel wire to clear out the inside of this horn wire rod and then used the horn wire tube to ram out the next sized tube and worked my way out to the biggest tube using the same technique, it worked a treat.

Narve, do you have some measurements of your frame. I have a series 62 roadster that I can compare for you.

I rebuilt a Chrysler 50, if the brakes are correctly adjusted they work reasonably well and should be capable of slowing and stopping a car on a steep hill with no problems. However, if you run thru deep puddles and drench these brakes, their braking power diminishes considerably. If you are really worried, make sure your handbrake is working well, and that the flexible couplings on the driveshaft are good. I've used the handbrake only on occasions when needed.

I think early production Chrysler used Fisher bodies and as gunsmoke said they then bought a body manufacturer and made their own bodies. I stand to be corrected but I don't think the fisher bodies for Chrysler had fisher body tags, and Chrysler may have been using bodies from both suppliers at this time. I'm restoring a 1925 tourer body at the moment, it has a tag with a body number attached to the right hand firewall wood upright, inside the car just above the toeboard. There is NO manufacturers tag. 2 1927 model 50 tourer bodies I had, one had a small "body by Chrysler" emblem at the rear bottom right of cowl side panel, just in front of the right hand door. The other did not have this badge, so I assume made by different plants. A 1928 model 52 tourer I had, also did not have this badge.

Definitely not Ford

Dustycrusty, the icelandic car is probably a light six, as it would appear to have 4 lug wheels and a black nash emblem. The radiator cap has the 2 small wings that were used in 1927. Your latest picture is of an Advanced 6 as it has 6 lug bolt wheels.

Nice project, I have restored worse cars . Start building the car, join some of the Australian Chrysler clubs and keep looking, the parts will come to you when you show serious progress. Good luck on your project.

Looks like a 1927 Nash

Narve, Check the diecast top, to see if the brass valve seat insert has come loose. A friend of mine had one that would pop out of place and jam the valve. I used a drop of Loctite (permanent bearing fit or thread lock) and pushed the seat back into place. It's been 15 years or more since I did that and the guys car is still going with no more problems. Just be careful and make sure the Loctite only goes on the outside of the brass insert where it goes into the diecast, or you will have a permanently stuck valve.

Definitely a fuel problem. Before you strip the carb, check to see if there is gas coming out the bottom of the autovac. If not, then you may have, Run out of fuel and the autovac is empty, or a blocked gas pipe from the tank, a broken suction line to the autovac , or problems with the autovac itself. The autovac seldom gives problems, but I have had , A broken or cracked suction pipe, so no fuel is sucked from the tank. A autovac top gasket that has shrunk and cracked with age, so no suction to the tank. The flapper valve in the bottom of the autovac may be damaged or stuck. The flip flop valve seats come loose in the autovac top, these can work intermittently to drive you mad. Cracked or damaged autovac top, the diecast is breaking up. Have fun

My car was restored by a PO in the 70's, I know lots has been done incorrectly. The car needs a total restoration, but for now I want to get it useable as it is. The seat upholstery has too many pleats and I don't know if the seat springs are original. My front seat backrest is 3&1/2 inches thick, the base sits on a flat floor without a seat riser and is approx 7 inches deep at the front. below are some pics of my car, it is a model 62 Front seat removed showing the backrest wood which has been replaced. Copied from original wood ??? Floor under front seat, no seat riser. All wood been replaced. Copied from original ??? Door panel not correct. Inside woodwork in rumble area all been replaced. Correct??? Note the pleated rumble backrest is wrong. The following pics I have taken off stuff for sale on the nett and may or may not be correct. Below a rumble interior of what was advertised as a Model 60, this looks correct Your door panel design would be like this below, with a flap that can be lifted to stow stuff in the door series 62 showing seat pleats, the model 62 front seat I'm sure will be the same I would appreciate some pictures of your cars interior, with or without the seats installed, regards Viv. DOES ANYONE HAVE AN ORIGINAL SERIES 60 OR 62 ROADSTER, THAT CAN POST LOTS OF PICTURES PLEASE.

The Model 58 should be the same as a Model 52 when it comes to timing. The below info is copied from a Model 52 owners handbook. I don't think it will help to get all technical with timing lights and flywheel marks, after all, you set the timing as per these descriptions below and then once the car is running you advance the timing by hand to where the motor runs best.