viv w

Having a model specific parts book may make it easier to look up the part you want, but it will not tell you if that part also fits other models. That is why the master parts book is a better option

Ben's and John's guage clusters are totally different. even the chrome/nickel guage surrounds are not the same, check the different designs. I will have to look and see what is in the parts book, I suspect they could be different years and maybe a difference because of body styles? I bought a set of guages in Toronto that I thought were for my 1928 model 62 and fortunately saw the difference before shipping, they turned out to be for a 1929 series 65, and in rough condition. At a quick glance they look the same, but closer inspection showed the chrome guage surround is different, the individual guage bezels are different and also different color gauge faces. Good luck finding a working Gas guage, I was going to use the Toronto one on my series 62, but it was broken inside, the pointer/needle fits into a diecast part and it has disintegrated with age, there is no plan to fix them. I was lucky and found a correct one thru this forum, the seller told me he had 12 others that were irrepairable.

Hi Cricket, The Chrysler 6 is a heavy motor, I don't know if I would risk lifting it on a couple of head studs. I took the motor out on my G70 using heavy straps tied around the front under the crank pulley and at the rear around the bell housing. I also remembered to look at the Genny coupling, and without stripping it out of the driven gear, it has 5 laminations that protrude one inch from the coupling , hope that helps regards Viv.

It might help if you specify what year

Hi John, Do you have a lot more photo's of the wooden body structure that you could post, whilst it is not the same as my series 62 roadster, there will be similarities in the basic structure and it would be useful for reference not only for me, but other owners as well. Thanks regards Viv

In the parts book the backing plate would appear to be called a brake support and the model Ci and Ct have the same part number, hope this helps.

Hi Allin, I would suggest you take the old bearings to a local bearing supply company, they should be able to match them up for you

In the front of the parts manual it has a model code. The models are as follows;- Code F model 58 Code I and I* is model 50 and then 52 Code B is 24 to 26 Chrysler 6 Code G model 70 1925-27 Code H chrysler 60 26/7 code E chrysler 80 26/7 code M chry 62 27/8 Code J model 72 Code L imp 80 27/8 Code P model 65 Code R model 75 Code L* imp 80 28/9

Nice project

I think the Rugby, an export version of the Durant also used the same rad shell.

It is a rev counter drive, the distributor goes in the top and the bottom part gets driven from the camshaft. The side output is not for a speedo cable, but for a rev counter drive cable. Probably mid thirties, may have been used on cars such as Auburn, cord or other high end cars fitted with a rev counter.

Hi, Found these pictures of a RHD model 60 on the nett today, it shows the linkage from the distributor to the manifold and down to the column a bit clearer than my pictures. Your model 72 will be much the same. Viv

Hi Again, Looking at my series 52 owners handbook, it says horns were supplied by the Sparks Withington co, Jackson Michigan. The parts book lists a Sparton horn, so I am guessing Sparton was short for Sparks Withington. No pictures of the horns fitted to the 3 cars I had , however I found these pictures on the nett today that may help. The picture below shows the exact type of horn fitted as original on my 3 cars, but the mounting was different. I firmly believe the Chryslers were supplied with this beep beep type horn from the factory. I stand to be corrected but I'm pretty sure the klaxon type horns were not from the factory. Below picture shows the correct horn mounting bracket that was used on Chrysler 50 and 52. It is bolted to the water outlet housing bolts. (I just noticed the outlet pipe on this left hand drive has a boss cast at the lower side for a hand throttle linkage to be bolted on, the rhd water outlet does not have this.) Hope this helps, best regards Viv

Original model A timing gears were made completely of fibre, but some aftermarket ones were made of alluminum . I found an aftermarket one on a worn model a motor, it was fibre and had a splined hub pressed into the centre of the fibre gear, this one had come loose on the splines and was so worn that the timing was all over the place, up to about 10 degrees. Generally fibre timing gears are like modern timing belts, it is best to change them at or before 50k miles.

The octagonal cap is most likely for an MG and nothing to do with a Jordan

Fliverking, Those pistons will not work on cars with the early external contracting brakes, maybe correct for the internal expanding brakes on 1929 onward brakes. Viv

The 1920's Chrysler wheel cylinders all look the same but there are 9 different part numbers. My 1928 model 52 had 1&1/16inch bore wheel cylinders with a 1&1/2 bore master cylinder, the brake drums from memory were 12inch diameter. According to the parts book the model 52 wheel cylinders do not fit other models. My 1928 model 62 has 14inch brake drums, the wheel cylinders are much bigger with 1&1/4inch bore, master cylinder is 1&3/8 bore. The 1926 model G70 I have has 14in brake drums, the master cylinder is 1&1/2 inch bore. It is an early G70's with 1&1/2 bore wheel cylinders with a multiple part piston. The later 1927 G70's or finer 70, also had 14 inch drums and had 1&1/4 bore wheel cylinder with a one piece alloy piston, these cylinders are pretty much the same as the Chrysler 60 and 62. You will need to strip the brakes to confirm what you need, as it is possible that parts from other models have been fitted over its lifespan.

Hi Roger, It will help if you specify what model your car is, as not all models used the same cylinders. The chances of finding NEW wheel and master cylinders are slim at best, you will have to strip your brakes, hone the cylinders and then decide whether the old cylinders are useable as is or will need to be resleeved. When stripping your wheel cylinders DO NOT try to knock or press the pistons thru from one side to the other, as there is a piston stop block in the middle. There has been several articles recently on these brakes which you can find using the search function.

Hi Tonz, I've rebuilt a Model 50 and 2 model 52 Chryslers, all with original horns. The horns had no name on any of them and they were mounted onto a bracket that bolted to the water outlet on the left side of the engine. I have sold all these cars but will look and see if I have any pictures showing the mounting bracket. Chrysler used Delco Remy electrics on the model 50 and 52 and I do not think the North East electric horn is correct for your car. Your N E electric horn is more likely to be for a Dodge, as all their electrics were supplied by N E electric Viv.

Hi Tonz, At the time I posted they were available and there had been one bid, so I suspect they have been sold.

You will need to look on the bearing cup and cone, there should be part numbers. With those numbers try the bearing companies

With the M emblem in the hubcap it is a Morris Minor 1000 from about 1960 to 1980. The earlier Morris Minor series MM had plain hubcaps without the M in the centre.

Okay, but bear in mind Columbia rear axles can have a standard prop shaft or a torque tube.

Leo, the one at the bottom between the cowl and frame is a "T" section pretty much the same as Model A Ford. Have a look at Steele rubber products on line and you will find something. The side between the frame and windscreen posts. probably does not have a seal unless the frame has a slot to slide in rubber, basically the side curtains clip onto those male lift the dots on the windscreen posts and the material stops rain coming thru. Very little rain is likely to come thru between the posts and frame anyway even if driving without the side curtains. I have seen that you can buy a rubber section to go between the top and bottom halves of the screen, in reality, if the glass is fitted and cut correctly, there is no room for a rubber seal. My 52 tourer I drove many times in torrential rain and by opening the top half of the frame slightly forward of the lower half, I had VERY little come thru even when driving at pace. The only time I ever fitted the side curtains when driving, was if the rain was come sideways in strong winds.

You need to specify the year ,make, model and ratios for your car . Columbia 2 speed axles were fitted to several makes of cars and they are not all the same.